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WD45 Narrow to Wide Front End |
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R.W
Orange Level Joined: 31 Dec 2010 Location: Swanton, OH Points: 2975 |
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Posted: 29 Dec 2014 at 1:56pm |
What would be needed to convert a narrow front end to factory wide front end on a WD45? How much would a guy expect to spend on the conversion? Pictures of what I need would be helpful, if anyone has them. -Thanks
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WF owner
Orange Level Joined: 12 May 2013 Location: Bombay NY Points: 4666 |
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Basically, you have to have the factory front end with the ballister (part that goes between the frame rails) and the front engine support that goes crosswise under the frame rails.
First you need to slightly raise the front end and support with jack stands. Next you need to remove the bolts that hold the steering shaft bolts to the back of the ballister (sp). Then remove the 4 bolts on each side of the frame rail. You may have to heat these bolts to get them out. Try not to twist them off. They are tough to get out if you twist then off. Next I loosen all the bolts on the left side frame rail. It makes it a lot easier to get the front support out. My experience is that it's easier to loosen the frame rail right away. It makes the job a lot easier in the long run. Pry the left frame rail out until the front support is loose, then forward to clear the steering shaft. Basically reverse for the installation of the WFE. I wish you were closer. I have a very good 3 bolt WFE that I would like to see someone get some good out of! $300 (+/-) seems to be the going price for a WFE with good spindles, hubs and bearings. Edited by WF owner - 29 Dec 2014 at 4:44pm |
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Rltool
Orange Level Joined: 17 Jun 2013 Location: Middleville ,MI Points: 1821 |
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R.W
Orange Level Joined: 31 Dec 2010 Location: Swanton, OH Points: 2975 |
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So I should be able to buy the whole assembly that is ready to bolt on? No special pieces? Kind of a unit in itself?
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In Search Of: 1958 Allis Chalmers D17 Diesel serial #9643D
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DrAllis
Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 20528 |
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If you already have a wide front end, it is a very simple job to remove the axle, leave the bolster (gearbox)in the tractor, and bolt on a narrow front tricycle post. That would be referred to as an "inter-changeable" front end.......wide front or tricycle front. Look closely at what you currently have to be sure it isn't already got the correct bolster/gearbox. Probably not, but you never know.
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Rltool
Orange Level Joined: 17 Jun 2013 Location: Middleville ,MI Points: 1821 |
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Yes. Most people selling them. Sell them as a complete unit. Maybe not rims & tires. But the narrow front hubs & rims are interchangeable. You can find them anywhere from $250 to $500. When you buy them. Look at all the moveable joints & steering gear for excessive were. All of it can be fixed, just adds to the total cost. I would recommend disassembling as WF owner said.
Ray W. |
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Sugarmaker
Orange Level Joined: 12 Jul 2013 Location: Albion PA Points: 8292 |
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I would estimate $500 to $700 for the budget. If you get it done for less then you can go out and have a nice dinner:) You may need parts for the new wide front. Like tie rods, bushings, bearings.
I did a swap of a worn out wide front to a less worn out wide front and replaced most of the parts, this year. Broken bolts in the usable bolster was one of the problems. Regards, Chris |
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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Thad in AR.
Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Arkansas Points: 9455 |
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RW when I got my wide front I completely went through it and replaced all worn bearings and seals and then painted it. Once I had it ready to install I swaped it over in a couple hrs.
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WF owner
Orange Level Joined: 12 May 2013 Location: Bombay NY Points: 4666 |
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I have one that is good and tight. It needs no bushings, tie rods, nothing. $300 plus shipping!
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HudCo
Orange Level Joined: 29 Jan 2013 Location: Plymouth Utah Points: 3543 |
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after alifetime with a wide front on my wd iswicthed it to a narrow front still not sure that i am not going to switch it back to the wide front if the bolts inthe frame come out and the steering shaft u joint comes apart about an hour and a half probley plan on replacing the u joint
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Brian G. NY
Orange Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: 12194 Points: 2242 |
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RW, I would jump on WFowner's offer........that is a good deal!
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R.W
Orange Level Joined: 31 Dec 2010 Location: Swanton, OH Points: 2975 |
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The price is very reasonable, but to ship it 700 miles would make it not so cheap... Thanks for the offer, I will have to find one closer.
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In Search Of: 1958 Allis Chalmers D17 Diesel serial #9643D
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Don(MO)
Orange Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Bates City MO. Points: 6862 |
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If you have a loader on the WD45 you might look for a four bolt front end over the three bolt front end.
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3 WD45's with power steering,G,D15 fork lift,D19, W-Speed Patrol, "A" Gleaner with a 330 corn head,"66" combine,roto-baler, and lots of Snap Coupler implements to make them work for their keep.
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Rltool
Orange Level Joined: 17 Jun 2013 Location: Middleville ,MI Points: 1821 |
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Don is right.
There is a 3 bolt wide front for sale east of Kalamazoo , MI right now. They are asking $350. I may have one for sale within a couple months also. Ray W. Edited by Rltool - 30 Dec 2014 at 5:09am |
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R.W
Orange Level Joined: 31 Dec 2010 Location: Swanton, OH Points: 2975 |
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Are the 4 bolt front ends priced the same? I'm guessing they are harder to find? I don't plan to install a loader, but I can't be sure that I never will. I'd rather have the heavier built front end from the start, than to end up with problems later.
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In Search Of: 1958 Allis Chalmers D17 Diesel serial #9643D
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Rltool
Orange Level Joined: 17 Jun 2013 Location: Middleville ,MI Points: 1821 |
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What I've seen on average the 4 bolt ones are about $100 more. I'm not sure what is different between them. I know the front support plate bolt pattern is spread out more on the 4 bolt bolster. And the internal brg setup is different. Just by noticing the top cover plates are different.
Some one else on here will know more. Ray W. |
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Don(MO)
Orange Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Bates City MO. Points: 6862 |
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If you have a WD/WD45 with power steering and use the front bolster like in Ray's pic it will work OK but you will need to remove the front pulley to remove the engine. The latter front ends had a diff bolster that didn't have the longer top lip.
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3 WD45's with power steering,G,D15 fork lift,D19, W-Speed Patrol, "A" Gleaner with a 330 corn head,"66" combine,roto-baler, and lots of Snap Coupler implements to make them work for their keep.
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R.W
Orange Level Joined: 31 Dec 2010 Location: Swanton, OH Points: 2975 |
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I have power steering and my narrow front is a solid unit unlike the one pictured.
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In Search Of: 1958 Allis Chalmers D17 Diesel serial #9643D
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tak
Bronze Level Joined: 06 Jul 2016 Location: DESOTO MO Points: 11 |
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I found this post and I am getting ready to swap my narrow for a wide front end. The advice you got from another member seemed straight forward. I was wondering if the steering shaft is the same. Any advice would be very gratefully appreciated. I have a 1956 WD45 I like the narrow a lot but also like the wide too. I have one with new bearings and rebuilt pivot pin & plate. I was wondering how yours went together. Thanks Tony
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WD45
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littlemarv
Orange Level Joined: 10 Jun 2013 Location: Wisconsin Points: 1829 |
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Food for thought, the crankshaft pulley is actually different between wide and narrow front ends. I took out my narrow and put in a three bolt wide front, now the hand crank doesn't engage the pulley.
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The mechanic always wins.
B91131, WC23065, WD89101, CA29479, B1, Early B10, HB212, 416H |
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tak
Bronze Level Joined: 06 Jul 2016 Location: DESOTO MO Points: 11 |
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I have both hand crank shafts and there is a little difference in the pin, I noticed. I will watch for it. I have a four bolt front and use the same steering shaft that come with the wide front. Did it go pretty smooth taking it on and off?
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WD45
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Allis dave
Orange Level Joined: 10 May 2012 Location: Northern IN Points: 2917 |
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I've never swapped front ends, but I've had mine completely off and rebuilt like Rtool did. Pretty straightforward. If you do make the swap, make sure to disassemble your new bolster and replace all the seals. You don't want to get it all on and find out how much it leaks everywhere.
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tak
Bronze Level Joined: 06 Jul 2016 Location: DESOTO MO Points: 11 |
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Good idea, that would be easier to do now. Did you only loosen the left rail to get it off? I don't have power steering, I wish I did. I also wish I had a manual. I got a lot of cleaning to do so I think I will go for it as soon as I get the prep work done.
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WD45
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tadams(OH)
Orange Level Access Joined: 17 Sep 2009 Location: Jeromesville, O Points: 10127 |
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If your thinking about changing you better start soaking the bolts that hold the front end in the frame. Then by the time you are ready the bolts might come out easier.
Tom
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Allis dave
Orange Level Joined: 10 May 2012 Location: Northern IN Points: 2917 |
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I'd try not loosening either frame ail first and see if it comes out. If it's too tight, just loosen one side a little. Mae sure everything is blocked good.
Forgot to say if the pivots are wore, you might want to repair like Rtool did. He might even build the parts for you. When I did mine, I replaced all the pivot points and put grease fittings on them. A work to the wise, if you replace the long rear pivot bold on the back, get everything in place and weld the new bolt to the rear support while it's on the tractor. If you do it while it's apart, you'll get the angle wrong and have to cut it off and do over. At least I did... |
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WF owner
Orange Level Joined: 12 May 2013 Location: Bombay NY Points: 4666 |
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I've found it easier to loosen the (left) frame rail right away. (To remove the right rail, you have to remove the belt pulley and drain the oil.)
After you get it loose, you have room to work. It's much easier with the frame rails separated. |
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tak
Bronze Level Joined: 06 Jul 2016 Location: DESOTO MO Points: 11 |
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I got everything soaking and going to soak it some more. The pivot points are all rebuilt with grease fittings front and rear and new pivot pin. The guy I got it from done this all His self plus new bearings. He was going to put it on his the way it is, WD45 but parted it out instead. I hope the angles of pivot is correct. His other rebuilds looked very good. I guess I will find out. He got a John Deer.
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WD45
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tak
Bronze Level Joined: 06 Jul 2016 Location: DESOTO MO Points: 11 |
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The rear pivot pin did not get replaced just the rear bushing in plate with a grease fitting installed. The steering box needs to be cleaned out and new seals. I recon I am going for it. I can sell the narrow or switch back. I hope it is not a lot harder to steer. I appreciate the help.
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WD45
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Allis dave
Orange Level Joined: 10 May 2012 Location: Northern IN Points: 2917 |
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My wide front steers pretty easy, I have 4 slab weights on the front too. Like and manual steering it works better if you're moving. You'll need a press to the gear off the inside vertical pedestal shaft. You have to press the gear off to change the seal.
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Don(MO)
Orange Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Bates City MO. Points: 6862 |
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If you need more help you can send me a PM and I will walk you through it.
Don |
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3 WD45's with power steering,G,D15 fork lift,D19, W-Speed Patrol, "A" Gleaner with a 330 corn head,"66" combine,roto-baler, and lots of Snap Coupler implements to make them work for their keep.
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