WD45 battery ground bolt

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   I weld a nut onto the broken whatever. Use a nut at least the next size diameter, center it around the bolt, carefully place the rod down the center of the nut onto the bolt, feed the rod until the weld is flush with the top of the nut, let the weld cool until the red color is gone, try to screw the bolt out. It may take several attemps but it works for me. That size bolt may require a 1/16" or 3/32" rod, a 1/8" might be too large.

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David Grubb Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Bronze Level Joined: 14 Sep 2009 Location: Rochester, Il Points: 133	Post Options Post Reply Quote David Grubb Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 09 Sep 2012 at 8:52pm
	I weld a nut onto the broken whatever. Use a nut at least the next size diameter, center it around the bolt, carefully place the rod down the center of the nut onto the bolt, feed the rod until the weld is flush with the top of the nut, let the weld cool until the red color is gone, try to screw the bolt out. It may take several attemps but it works for me. That size bolt may require a 1/16" or 3/32" rod, a 1/8" might be too large.
	Dave

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DREAM Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 06 Jan 2010 Location: Elberton,GA Points: 1828	Post Options Post Reply Quote DREAM Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 09 Sep 2012 at 9:09pm
	Im with the weld a nut on it crowd. Works every time(unless it happens to be a left-handed thread on the bolt. Don't ask.LOL!) Use a nut slightly smaller than the broken bolt, so no weld gets to the base metal. Just center the nut over the bolt and fill the hole with weld. 7018 x 3/32 would be stronger than any of the 60xx series rods. For bolts that are broken off BELOW the surface, use a " stud plus" rod. They are made by Rockmount. Most welding supply houses can get them for you. They will not penetrate the surrounding metal(as long as its cast iron). They only penetrate the stud or bolt.
	I didn't do it! It was a short, fat, tall, skinny guy that looked like me!

Manure Queen Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Silver Level Joined: 29 Sep 2011 Location: Idaho Points: 90	Post Options Post Reply Quote Manure Queen Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 29 Sep 2012 at 11:46am
	Many thanks for the excellent ideas. I didn't have a welder handy so opted for the carbide drill bit. The bolt and easyout are gone and my threads are all cleaned up and ready to go. Thanks again. This was driving me nuts.

Coke-in-MN Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Afton MN Points: 41978	Post Options Post Reply Quote Coke-in-MN Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 29 Sep 2012 at 12:39pm
	The broken tap and the broken easy out can also be removed by hammer and punch , breaking them into small pieces , doing this be sure to shield yourself though as little pieces ca in-bed into hands and even eyes if protection is not used. I have had luck drilling the old bolt then using a cape chisel ( a round punch ground to a concave tip and then cutting sides of bolt after the hole is drilled . This allows the removal of the threaded material . The wax fed into a warmed stuck bolt also works . The grinding out of the broken material is a long slow process .
	Life lesson: If you’re being chased by a lion, you’re on a horse, to the left of you is a giraffe and on the right is a unicorn, what do you do? You stop drinking and get off the carousel.