WD45 battery ground bolt
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=55966
Printed Date: 19 Aug 2025 at 11:53am
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: WD45 battery ground bolt
Posted By: Manure Queen
Subject: WD45 battery ground bolt
Date Posted: 27 Aug 2012 at 6:01pm
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Just brought home a WD45 in remarkably good condition and am in the process replacing 6 V battery and box. The old ground bolt to the right as you face the rear
had been sheared off likely from corrosion and someone had run the ground to the same bolt on the opposite side via cable. I tried to pull the old bolt with heat, penetrating oil and an easy out, only to shear the easy out. It's an inch long and ends blindly. I prefer the location of this ground as the box is set up for the ground strap to exit cleanly. I suspect my only option is to drill and tap it, or run the strap to the other bolt on the left. Anyone else encounter this or have a better plan? Small thing, I know, but frustrating.
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Replies:
Posted By: Thad in AR.
Date Posted: 27 Aug 2012 at 7:59pm
| I went through the Dick L school of broken bolt removal and it didn't call for an easyout. Use a center punch and try to start a hole dead center and drill perfectly straight with a small bit and graduate larger as needed. Don't be in a hurry. Clean the threads with a tap and a seal pic. If it's a blind hole mark the bit so you don't go to deep. remove anything that will hinder keeping the drill square to your work. Be patient and get er dunn. If ya leave it it'll drive ya crazy. |
Posted By: CAdon
Date Posted: 27 Aug 2012 at 8:23pm
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problem is when you bury an easy out in there, it's harder than any drill you're likely to have. only remedy that has worked for me was to drill small holes all around the broken e/o until it can be pried out with a probe (like a small screwdriver). i'll definitely follow this thread though to see if there's an easier way,,,! btw i've also spent a few small rotary tool grinder tips doing this surgery. no fun that way either.
------------- 52 CA, 41 B and a little B1 oh, yeah... and an 8N ford snuck in there, too. |
Posted By: Manure Queen
Date Posted: 27 Aug 2012 at 9:03pm
| Believe me, I'm wishing like hell I never fell for the easyout -- too good to be true. The sad thing is, the old bolt drilled pretty easily with a good bit. Think there's a snowball's chance I can drill it with the easyout embedded for an extra skill test? I weigh 120 pounds. I think I'm going to ask my brawny friend who's an excellent metal man. You're completely right -- if I leave it (which is what everyone else has done) it will drive me crazy. I thought about it all day today... that's when I knew I should turn to the forum. Thank you for your advice. Where's Dick L when I need him? |
Posted By: Ted J
Date Posted: 27 Aug 2012 at 11:11pm
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How about welding a bolt head onto what you have there and then heating and trying to get it out? When I have tried this, I have always had good luck turning the old rusty bolt IN more at first and then backing it out. Just a thought.
------------- "Allis-Express" 19?? WC / 1941 C / 1952 CA / 1956 WD45 / 1957 WD45 / 1958 D-17 |
Posted By: Manure Queen
Date Posted: 27 Aug 2012 at 11:32pm
| Very clever idea. I'll run it past my welder pal. I have to take some work to him this week and I'll bet I can talk him into having a look. I'm sure any other sane person would just connect the ground to the opposite bolt and forget about it but this is driving me nuts. I really appreciate the comments. You guys are the best. |
Posted By: Alberta Phil
Date Posted: 27 Aug 2012 at 11:42pm
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I just had to deal with a sheared off bolt with a broken "easy out" in it last week. I welded a washer on to the broken stub of easy out and bolt and then welded a nut to that. I melted some parafin wax into it while it was still hot. After letting it cool right off, it screwed right out. This was a 1/2 inch stud in a 1 inch thick casting. |
Posted By: patrickmull
Date Posted: 28 Aug 2012 at 5:30am
| if you can drill a hole in a piece of thin flat strap weld it to the easy out you then have a handle to turn i do this on broke bolts also it puts heat in the bolt and expands it so let it cool before you try to remove it |
Posted By: mdm1
Date Posted: 28 Aug 2012 at 6:51am
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I have done the welding a nut on it before. You may have to do it a couple of times but it works. ------------- Everything is impossible until someone does it! WD45-trip loader 1947 c w/woods belly mower, 1939 B, #3 sickle mower 1944 B, 2 1948 G's. Misc other equipment that my wife calls JUNK! |
Posted By: Manure Queen
Date Posted: 28 Aug 2012 at 11:43am
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Here's the miserable part... The broken bolt and the sheared, embedded easy out are flush with the frame of the tractor. I suppose if my welder places a washer center over the offending bolt end, he'll have a little to weld to but not much. I hope he can get decent contact. Welding the nut is much more straightforward. I like this plan as it stands a chance of preserving the threads.
Time for the prayer hotline... That, and I will write "I will never use an easyout again" one hundred times.
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Posted By: DonDittmar
Date Posted: 28 Aug 2012 at 12:04pm
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A carbide burr in a die grinder will eat a tap/easy out.
If your handy with the gas axe you can blow out the broken easy out with the torch ------------- Experience is a fancy name for past mistakes. "Great moments are born from great opportunity" 1968 D15D,1962 D19D Also 1965 Cub Loboy and 1958 JD 720 Diesel Pony Start |
Posted By: Mochaman
Date Posted: 02 Sep 2012 at 9:31pm
Right here is your answer in my opinion, the carbide burr that is. We have done it this way for years....it works. Then you can bolt a drill guide on with the proper sized bushing and drill out the broken bolt. |
DonDittmar wrote:Posted By: dt1050
Date Posted: 03 Sep 2012 at 4:55am
| on my wd the ground wire is just under were the amp gauge is. there are 2 bolts the front one (when facing the battery box on the L.side of the tractor) is were my ground wire goes, couldn't ya use the back bolt to put the ground wire or is mine set up wrong? |
Posted By: Manure Queen
Date Posted: 04 Sep 2012 at 11:25am
| I appreciate the advice. I had my welder take a look at it who agreed that a carbide bit may be the best option. He then spoke with the machinists 2 doors down from him who would prefer to clamp it down in their shop vs. doing this freehand. That means I'd have to pull the top of the gearbox as the battery ground is contained within, that also would entail unbolting the steering shaft and removing the gearshift. This seems a little involved. Do you you guys freehand it with the carbide bit? Remember, it has that embedded easyout (which I will never, ever attempt again). |
Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 04 Sep 2012 at 11:44am
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If you have an air compressor, a cheap air grinder with a carbide burr will grind the easy out away. If it was mine, and I have the carbide and air grinder, I would weld a washer to the offending bolt and then weld a nut to the washer and back the whole works right out. Been there done that.
------------- http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF |
Posted By: mdm1
Date Posted: 04 Sep 2012 at 3:15pm
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I would weld the nut on, do the grinder deal, or reattach the ground to a different spot and find a new welder! Or better yet learn to weld because you will need to weld again. Just my thoughts. ------------- Everything is impossible until someone does it! WD45-trip loader 1947 c w/woods belly mower, 1939 B, #3 sickle mower 1944 B, 2 1948 G's. Misc other equipment that my wife calls JUNK! |
Posted By: Manure Queen
Date Posted: 04 Sep 2012 at 4:06pm
| Roger that, mdm1. Lost 2 welders, a good mechanic and a shop full of tools in 2010, but I kept the farm. All in all, I'm lucky. Trust me, I'll get this bolt out. Just wanted ideas. |
Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 07 Sep 2012 at 11:28pm
| I have removed many broken bolts/studs by welding directly on offending culprit and slowly buiding up the height untill I can get a vise grip on it and turn it out.This requires many arcs/puddles and sl*g chipping to build it up but the constant chippng and heating seem to aid in loosening.Many offenders are broke about a thread below flush but I have won every battle.Some required a "start over" after twisting off the "build up" but that's just the way it goes. I don't seem to be able to weld a little nut on the inside to anything....the sl*g gets me every time.( No wire welder around here) |
Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 07 Sep 2012 at 11:31pm
| why is my "a" in "sl*g" a star looking thing? I edited out but it put it back. |
Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 07 Sep 2012 at 11:32pm
| WTF!! Done it again! |
Posted By: David Maddux
Date Posted: 08 Sep 2012 at 4:11am
| With the hole drilled into the center of the bolt, providing the easy out is broken below the surface of the hole, I would take a wire welder and weld the hole full. Then weld the washer on. By welding the hole shut, you have made the entire bolt red hot, which has expanded and contracted the bolt , which will break it loose. Then after you weld the washer on, use the candle trick , you should be able to turn it out with a pair of pliers. Dave. |
Posted By: Bob D. (La)
Date Posted: 08 Sep 2012 at 4:52am
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Steve, just testing to see if sl*g is doing it from my computer as well. ------------- When you find yourself in a hole,PUT DOWN THE SHOVEL!!! |
Posted By: dannyraddatz
Date Posted: 08 Sep 2012 at 4:52am
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I know it's to late for this to be used, has any one ever used left handed drill bits? When you drill with these it will naturally want to make the bolt come out. http://www.sears.com/hanson-5-piece-cobalt-left-handed-drill-bit-set/p-00919883000P" rel="nofollow - http://www.sears.com/hanson-5-piece-cobalt-left-handed-drill-bit-set/p-00919883000P ------------- Danny Raddatz |
Posted By: Bob D. (La)
Date Posted: 08 Sep 2012 at 4:54am
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There's your answer Steve. For some reason this program things there is something wrong with the word sl ag. ------------- When you find yourself in a hole,PUT DOWN THE SHOVEL!!! |
Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 08 Sep 2012 at 12:02pm
If you weld a washer on first, you can weld the nut on the outside to the washer. Just leave enough of the nut to get a wrench on. ------------- http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF |
Posted By: mdm1
Date Posted: 08 Sep 2012 at 1:58pm
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I have a set of left hand drill bits and haven't had much luck. Although I have had the good fortune to not have to use them often. ------------- Everything is impossible until someone does it! WD45-trip loader 1947 c w/woods belly mower, 1939 B, #3 sickle mower 1944 B, 2 1948 G's. Misc other equipment that my wife calls JUNK! |
Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 08 Sep 2012 at 9:50pm
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If a bolt broke off while trying to back it out of a rusted hole, the left hand bits won't do much good. And if they need sharpening, well I can hand sharpen any drill cept a lefty. ------------- http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF |
Posted By: Ted J
Date Posted: 09 Sep 2012 at 7:17am
Charlie, you just gotta stand on the back side of the grinder for those lefties. LOL 
------------- "Allis-Express" 19?? WC / 1941 C / 1952 CA / 1956 WD45 / 1957 WD45 / 1958 D-17 |
Posted By: dannyraddatz
Date Posted: 09 Sep 2012 at 9:04am
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I am a lefty, How could that drill bit going opposite not work on removing that bolt, righty tighty, lefty loosey? one of my friends swore by this for getting broken of manifold studs out of a block. ------------- Danny Raddatz |
Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 09 Sep 2012 at 9:34am
Because, usually the "stick" of the rust is stronger than the bite of the drill bit. ------------- http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF |
Posted By: David Grubb
Date Posted: 09 Sep 2012 at 8:52pm
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I weld a nut onto the broken whatever. Use a nut at least the next size diameter, center it around the bolt, carefully place the rod down the center of the nut onto the bolt, feed the rod until the weld is flush with the top of the nut, let the weld cool until the red color is gone, try to screw the bolt out. It may take several attemps but it works for me. That size bolt may require a 1/16" or 3/32" rod, a 1/8" might be too large.
------------- Dave |
Posted By: DREAM
Date Posted: 09 Sep 2012 at 9:09pm
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Im with the weld a nut on it crowd. Works every time(unless it happens to be a left-handed thread on the bolt. Don't ask.LOL!) Use a nut slightly smaller than the broken bolt, so no weld gets to the base metal. Just center the nut over the bolt and fill the hole with weld. 7018 x 3/32 would be stronger than any of the 60xx series rods. For bolts that are broken off BELOW the surface, use a " stud plus" rod. They are made by Rockmount. Most welding supply houses can get them for you. They will not penetrate the surrounding metal(as long as its cast iron). They only penetrate the stud or bolt. ------------- I didn't do it! It was a short, fat, tall, skinny guy that looked like me! |
Posted By: Manure Queen
Date Posted: 29 Sep 2012 at 11:46am
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Many thanks for the excellent ideas. I didn't have a welder handy so opted for the carbide drill bit. The bolt and easyout are gone and my threads are all cleaned up and ready to go. Thanks again. This was driving me nuts.
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Posted By: Coke-in-MN
Date Posted: 29 Sep 2012 at 12:39pm
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The broken tap and the broken easy out can also be removed by hammer and punch , breaking them into small pieces , doing this be sure to shield yourself though as little pieces ca in-bed into hands and even eyes if protection is not used. I have had luck drilling the old bolt then using a cape chisel ( a round punch ground to a concave tip and then cutting sides of bolt after the hole is drilled . This allows the removal of the threaded material . The wax fed into a warmed stuck bolt also works . The grinding out of the broken material is a long slow process . ------------- Life lesson: If you’re being chased by a lion, you’re on a horse, to the left of you is a giraffe and on the right is a unicorn, what do you do? You stop drinking and get off the carousel. |