WD 45 Starter issues

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I have my dad's 1955 WD 45, New starter, new wiring harness, new generator and voltage regulator, new switch and battery. Pull the tractor 2 feet, runs and charges like a champ.
But it will not start with the starter, feels like it drags and turns over slow. Is the flywheel bad? Any ideas are welcome, been fighting this for a few years now.

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Steve Bright Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 14 Sep 2009 Location: Martinsville, I Points: 2107	Post Options Post Reply Quote Steve Bright Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Topic: WD 45 Starter issues Posted: 09 Jul 2016 at 8:18am
	I have my dad's 1955 WD 45, New starter, new wiring harness, new generator and voltage regulator, new switch and battery. Pull the tractor 2 feet, runs and charges like a champ. But it will not start with the starter, feels like it drags and turns over slow. Is the flywheel bad? Any ideas are welcome, been fighting this for a few years now.

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Stan IL&TN Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 13 Sep 2009 Location: Elvis Land Points: 6730	Post Options Post Reply Quote Stan IL&TN Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 09 Jul 2016 at 9:37am
	First thing I would check is the ignition timing. I would also remove tHe spark plugs and see how easy it turns by hand and then by starter. You may also want to put the old starter back in and try that also.
	1957 WD45 dad's first AC 1968 one-seventy 1956 F40 Ferguson

DougS Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 03 Nov 2011 Location: Iowa Points: 2490	Post Options Post Reply Quote DougS Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 09 Jul 2016 at 9:56am
	Tell us more. Is it a 6 volt battery? What kind of battery cables?

Don(MO) Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Bates City MO. Points: 6862	Post Options Post Reply Quote Don(MO) Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 09 Jul 2016 at 10:02am
	To look at the flywheel ring-gear remove the lower clutch housing cover plate (the big one not just the little two bolt cover) with it off you can see haft the flywheel ring gear at a time. The ring gear will where in four places around it. Look at the size batt cables, they need to be 1 gauge or bigger and don't use the clamp-on ends. check the ground end, is it clean and tight? Then check the starter drive gear and count the teeth. Load test the batt. Like Stan said check the timing and how tight the engine is.
	3 WD45's with power steering,G,D15 fork lift,D19, W-Speed Patrol, "A" Gleaner with a 330 corn head,"66" combine,roto-baler, and lots of Snap Coupler implements to make them work for their keep.

Gerald J. Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Hamilton Co, IA Points: 5636	Post Options Post Reply Quote Gerald J. Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 09 Jul 2016 at 11:26am
	Distributor centrifugal advance stuck advanced will nearly stall the best starter, cables, and battery. Its not a rare condition. Comes from retard springs rusted off, or cam rusted to the main shaft because its not been lubricated. The advance needs a couple drops of crankcase oil per year into the felt in the center of the cam shaft under the distributor rotor. With the engine not running you can take off the distributor cap and should be able to turn the rotor in the direction it runs and feel the springs going to work and then when you release the rotor it must snap back to the retarded position. If not its time for lubrication and digging down into the advance mechanism under the points plate. On a 6 volt system, voltage drop in the starter cables is critical and the 4 gauge cables at the wallyworld kiosk are much too small when the starter draws 350 or 400 amps. The only limitation on starter cable size is affording the copper and being able to bend it to fit the space available. 00 is a good size.Last I checked NAPA stores carried cables that size with ends applied. Gerald J.

Fred in Pa Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 13 Sep 2009 Location: Hanover Pa. Points: 9210	Post Options Post Reply Quote Fred in Pa Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 09 Jul 2016 at 12:04pm
	What are you calling new starter, rebuilt ,reman , etc. Edited by Fred in Pa - 09 Jul 2016 at 12:06pm
	He who dies with the most toys is, nonetheless ,still dead. If all else fails ,Read all that is PRINTED.

Steve Bright Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 14 Sep 2009 Location: Martinsville, I Points: 2107	Post Options Post Reply Quote Steve Bright Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 09 Jul 2016 at 6:06pm
	OK, it is 6 volt, I want to keep it that way, Rebuilt starter, Now it will start when the engine is cold, drive around and let the engine temp get up to normal, shut it off and you will need to pull tractor to start until it is completely cold again, then it will start, Battery cables are from NAPA with ends made on the cable.

Steve in NJ Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Andover, NJ Points: 12002	Post Options Post Reply Quote Steve in NJ Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 09 Jul 2016 at 7:35pm
	First thing I would do is do a draw test on the Battery and see what condition that is in. A low cell on a 6V Battery will loose a lot of power. Next, I would clean all cable connections, making sure the Battery cables are like Don said, at least 1 gauge or a little larger. If all that checks out good, then its time to find out what the rebuilder did to the Starter motor. Some "rebuilt" Starters are nothin' but new bearings, bushings, and a set of brushes. Were the field coils tested? Com plate in excellent shape? Armature replaced? All these things need to be looked into to see what the rebuilder did. If that Starter is right, it should spin that engine over anytime and everytime. Hot or cold..... Steve@B&B
	39'RC, 43'WC, 48'B, 49'G, 50'WF, 65 Big 10, 67'B-110, 75'716H, 2-620's, & a Motorhead wife

Gerald J. Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Hamilton Co, IA Points: 5636	Post Options Post Reply Quote Gerald J. Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 09 Jul 2016 at 9:05pm
	The battery posts in a 6 volt system need to be cleaned until the contact surfaces shine about twice a year. Been that way for me for the last 62 years. Gerald J.

Orange Blood Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 29 Nov 2010 Location: ColoradoSprings Points: 4053	Post Options Post Reply Quote Orange Blood Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 09 Jul 2016 at 9:09pm
	If it starts good cold, but not hot, something besides battery cables is wrong, I think How hot is your starter when the engine is hot? It really shouldn't be any different, than when cold. What weight oil are you running?
	Still in use: HD7 WC C CA WD 2-WD45 WD45LP WD45D D14 3-D17 D17LP 2-D19D D19LP 190XTD 190XTLP 720 D21 220 7020 7030 7040 7045 3-7060 Projects: 3-U UC 2-G 2-B 2-C CA 7-WC RC WDLP WF D14 D21 210 7045 N7

LeonR2013 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 01 Jan 2013 Location: Fulton, Mo Points: 3500	Post Options Post Reply Quote LeonR2013 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 10 Jul 2016 at 10:52pm
	After running and the armature gets hot from the engine they will act just like yours. Check the draw on the battery when cold and then when hot. If there's a lot of difference I'd say the armature is bad. Let us know.