WD 45 Starter issues
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Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=125625
Printed Date: 17 Sep 2025 at 11:14pm
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Topic: WD 45 Starter issues
Posted By: Steve Bright
Subject: WD 45 Starter issues
Date Posted: 09 Jul 2016 at 8:18am
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I have my dad's 1955 WD 45, New starter, new wiring harness, new generator and voltage regulator, new switch and battery. Pull the tractor 2 feet, runs and charges like a champ. But it will not start with the starter, feels like it drags and turns over slow. Is the flywheel bad? Any ideas are welcome, been fighting this for a few years now.
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Replies:
Posted By: Stan IL&TN
Date Posted: 09 Jul 2016 at 9:37am
First thing I would check is the ignition timing. I would also remove tHe spark plugs and see how easy it turns by hand and then by starter. You may also want to put the old starter back in and try that also.
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1957 WD45 dad's first AC
1968 one-seventy
1956 F40 Ferguson
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Posted By: DougS
Date Posted: 09 Jul 2016 at 9:56am
Tell us more. Is it a 6 volt battery? What kind of battery cables?
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Posted By: Don(MO)
Date Posted: 09 Jul 2016 at 10:02am
To look at the flywheel ring-gear remove the lower clutch housing cover plate (the big one not just the little two bolt cover) with it off you can see haft the flywheel ring gear at a time. The ring gear will where in four places around it. Look at the size batt cables, they need to be 1 gauge or bigger and don't use the clamp-on ends. check the ground end, is it clean and tight? Then check the starter drive gear and count the teeth. Load test the batt.
Like Stan said check the timing and how tight the engine is.
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3 WD45's with power steering,G,D15 fork lift,D19, W-Speed Patrol, "A" Gleaner with a 330 corn head,"66" combine,roto-baler, and lots of Snap Coupler implements to make them work for their keep.
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Posted By: Gerald J.
Date Posted: 09 Jul 2016 at 11:26am
Distributor centrifugal advance stuck advanced will nearly stall the best starter, cables, and battery. Its not a rare condition. Comes from retard springs rusted off, or cam rusted to the main shaft because its not been lubricated. The advance needs a couple drops of crankcase oil per year into the felt in the center of the cam shaft under the distributor rotor. With the engine not running you can take off the distributor cap and should be able to turn the rotor in the direction it runs and feel the springs going to work and then when you release the rotor it must snap back to the retarded position. If not its time for lubrication and digging down into the advance mechanism under the points plate.
On a 6 volt system, voltage drop in the starter cables is critical and the 4 gauge cables at the wallyworld kiosk are much too small when the starter draws 350 or 400 amps. The only limitation on starter cable size is affording the copper and being able to bend it to fit the space available. 00 is a good size.Last I checked NAPA stores carried cables that size with ends applied.
Gerald J.
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Posted By: Fred in Pa
Date Posted: 09 Jul 2016 at 12:04pm
What are you calling new starter, rebuilt ,reman , etc.
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He who dies with the most toys is,
nonetheless ,still dead.
If all else fails ,Read all that is PRINTED.
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Posted By: Steve Bright
Date Posted: 09 Jul 2016 at 6:06pm
OK, it is 6 volt, I want to keep it that way, Rebuilt starter, Now it will start when the engine is cold, drive around and let the engine temp get up to normal, shut it off and you will need to pull tractor to start until it is completely cold again, then it will start, Battery cables are from NAPA with ends made on the cable.
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Posted By: Steve in NJ
Date Posted: 09 Jul 2016 at 7:35pm
First thing I would do is do a draw test on the Battery and see what condition that is in. A low cell on a 6V Battery will loose a lot of power. Next, I would clean all cable connections, making sure the Battery cables are like Don said, at least 1 gauge or a little larger. If all that checks out good, then its time to find out what the rebuilder did to the Starter motor. Some "rebuilt" Starters are nothin' but new bearings, bushings, and a set of brushes. Were the field coils tested? Com plate in excellent shape? Armature replaced? All these things need to be looked into to see what the rebuilder did. If that Starter is right, it should spin that engine over anytime and everytime. Hot or cold.....
Steve@B&B
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39'RC, 43'WC, 48'B, 49'G, 50'WF, 65 Big 10, 67'B-110, 75'716H, 2-620's, & a Motorhead wife
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Posted By: Gerald J.
Date Posted: 09 Jul 2016 at 9:05pm
The battery posts in a 6 volt system need to be cleaned until the contact surfaces shine about twice a year. Been that way for me for the last 62 years.
Gerald J.
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Posted By: Orange Blood
Date Posted: 09 Jul 2016 at 9:09pm
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If it starts good cold, but not hot, something besides battery cables is wrong, I think
How hot is your starter when the engine is hot? It really shouldn't be any different, than when cold.
What weight oil are you running?
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Still in use:
HD7 WC C CA WD 2-WD45 WD45LP WD45D D14 3-D17 D17LP 2-D19D D19LP 190XTD 190XTLP 720 D21 220 7020 7030 7040 7045 3-7060
Projects: 3-U UC 2-G 2-B 2-C CA 7-WC RC WDLP WF D14 D21 210 7045 N7
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Posted By: LeonR2013
Date Posted: 10 Jul 2016 at 10:52pm
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After running and the armature gets hot from the engine they will act just like yours. Check the draw on the battery when cold and then when hot. If there's a lot of difference I'd say the armature is bad. Let us know.
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