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Trying to Start a B (GOT IT STARTED!!!)

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Richardmo View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Richardmo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Jan 2017 at 8:11pm
Look for a stuck valve or bent push rod.
That will cause a motor to have back pressure and not pull in the gas.
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AJ View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AJ Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Jan 2017 at 9:09pm
The engine seems to have too good of compression to not be a decent runner. Ive owned engines with much less compression that ran
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote BenGiBoy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Jan 2017 at 7:32am
This is kinda a silly question... but did you turn the switch to RUN?? (assuming that you did, because there is a spark...) 
'39 Model B
Tractors are cheaper than girls, remember that!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AJ Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Jan 2017 at 7:56am
Yes. Wired straight to the battery right now.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote NICKMI Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Jan 2017 at 7:58am
Try some ether just to make sure it's not a fuel related issue try thru carb and if that don't work try spraying a little in each cyl

Edited by NICKMI - 05 Jan 2017 at 8:01am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AJ Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Jan 2017 at 8:48am
Tried either several times.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Bull Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Jan 2017 at 9:01am
I would pull valve cover and spark plugs, make sure each piston tops out as it should and valves close accordingly.
WD45 Diesel, RC,CA,IB, B, G, 616, Early B-10, D-10, Terra Tiger, 95G spreader, SC blade
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AJ Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Jan 2017 at 9:20am
Done that too Bull
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote alan-nj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Jan 2017 at 11:05am
next stupid question:  are you saying it has good compression because you've done a compression test, or because it feels hard to crank?
If ignorance is bliss, than happy days are here again.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AJ Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Jan 2017 at 11:31am
Have not done a test with a gauge. Didnt feel it was necessary. Just trying to figure out if the the engine runs well or not.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Jan 2017 at 12:02pm
if it will not fire on ether, then it is not timed right........ still..If you are sure the camshaft / crank gear timing has not been changed since it ran last, then the distributor is still not set correct........
 
with the plugs out , bar the motor over slowly until #1 (front) comes up on compression stroke. at the top  (TDC) on the crank, you should see the point just break open inside the distributor... then the cap / rotor install should point at #1 plug wire.
Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AJ Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Jan 2017 at 12:20pm
Originally posted by steve(ill) steve(ill) wrote:

if it will not fire on ether, then it is not timed right........ still..If you are sure the camshaft / crank gear timing has not been changed since it ran last, then the distributor is still not set correct........
 

with the plugs out , bar the motor over slowly until #1 (front) comes up on compression stroke. at the top  (TDC) on the crank, you should see the point just break open inside the distributor... then the cap / rotor install should point at #1 plug wire.


To agree with you Steve I have determined that it has to be something with the distributor. Just trying to figure out what it can be. I'm pretty sure is timing.

Yesterday i did take the distributor out of the housing completely and turned it 180 due to a suggestion someone had made. Thinking its still not correct.

Edited by AJ - 05 Jan 2017 at 12:21pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DougS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Jan 2017 at 1:48pm
Originally posted by Dick L Dick L wrote:

valve position is how I check for compression stroke. If you had the crankshaft out the other thing I could see would be the camshaft and crankshaft were not in time. Checking for the valves being closed would mean that could not be the problem.

Providing the valves were closed for most of the compression stroke.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (2) Thanks(2)   Quote Gerald J. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Jan 2017 at 3:04pm
Turning the distributor shaft 180 degrees is the same as turning the crankshaft 360 degrees. Try 90 degrees at the distributor.

Gerald J.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (2) Thanks(2)   Quote desertjoe Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Jan 2017 at 3:42pm

   Hey AJ,,,Now,,I know you is a pretty good shade tree like me and sounds like you tried bout all these great suggestions,,,,,and since you HAVE tried ether,,,,,its gotta be timing,,,
   Only'ist thing I haven't read to make sure on the timing,,, is to pull valve cover and look at the valves to make sure they are both closed on #1 when piston is at TDC, dist pointing at  #1 spark plug position, and timing mark in window,,,,and it should start ,,,,Clap Does the engine backfire when crankin it??
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AJ Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Jan 2017 at 5:09pm
Pardon the ignorance gentlemen but I just want to make sure of the process that I need to do.

First step: get to TDC by mark on flywheel? Doesn't that mark show twice per cylinder revolution? If so, does it matter which time it shows that it should be set to?

Second step: look to see if the valves on #1 cylinder are both closed with the piston at the top of its stroke.

Third step: see if rotor is pointing at #1 spark plug or #1 cylinder?

That's probably a dumb question but I am past frustrated with this thing. So draw me a picture if I dont have it right. Like I said before, I've never had this much trouble trying to start a B or C.

Joe, the engine don't do much beside rotate when cranked. It was coughing back through the carb once in a while but it don't do that anymore. I did get it to hit on and run fir about 4 seconds at one time but it dont do that either now and it didn't sound organized when it did.

Edited by AJ - 05 Jan 2017 at 5:15pm
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Dick L View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Dick L Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Jan 2017 at 5:22pm
The timing mark comes up twice. Once on the compression and then on the exhaust stroke. As stated many times above it fires on the compression stroke.

If you watch the engine as it is hand cranked with the valve cover removed the rocker arms will both be up when you get to TDC on the compression stroke. that is when you set the points to just be ready to open, which causes a spark when they open, and the rotor will need to point toward the number one plug wire. At this point it is in time.  


Edited by Dick L - 05 Jan 2017 at 5:27pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AJ Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Jan 2017 at 5:26pm
Got it. Thanks. I plan to go throught the entire process after dinner
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Ted in NE-OH Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Jan 2017 at 6:13pm
Make sure you have compression in all cylinders, , valves could be stuck open.
CA, WD, C, 3 Bs, 2 Gs, WC, I-400, 914
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote desertjoe Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Jan 2017 at 6:19pm

   Thas what I'm thinkin now,,Ted in NE-OH,,,,,sounds like some valves too tight or hanging open,,,,
    since you've already had the valve cover off, AJ,,roll the engine and make sure all the valves do close and rocker arms slightly loose,,,or better yet run a quickie compression check,,that'll tell you lots,,,,,Clap
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (2) Thanks(2)   Quote CTuckerNWIL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Jan 2017 at 7:28pm
The timing mark does NOT tell you when it is on the COMPRESSION stroke. It HAS to be on the compression stroke with #1 at TDC to time it. With the valve cover on, you HAVE to put your thumb in #1 plug hole to find the compression stroke.
 This is WAY easier than people make it out to be IF you start by pulling the plug(s) and finding compression stroke first.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AJ Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Jan 2017 at 7:31pm
Charles I have been timing it with the finger in #1 cylinder. With #1 cylinder on the top of the compression stroke it does not show the TDC mark on the flywheel.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote CTuckerNWIL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Jan 2017 at 7:36pm
Where is the set screw for the front crankshaft pulley when you think it is at TDC without being able to see the mark?
 I have timed several engines after working on a distributor or Mag and NEVER looked for the flywheel mark. It isn't necessary IF you are at TDC of Compression on #1.
 I would also say, you are NOT at TDC if the mark isn't visible.


Edited by CTuckerNWIL - 05 Jan 2017 at 7:50pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote bryan/silex Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Jan 2017 at 7:45pm
looks and sounds like it time to sell it!!!   lol
WD's and 45's B's and c's and a few red ones , ALLIS EXPRESS also
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote allischalmerguy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Jan 2017 at 7:56pm
Originally posted by CTuckerNWIL CTuckerNWIL wrote:



Where is the set screw for the front crankshaft pulley when you think it is at TDC without being able to see the mark?
 I have timed several engines after working on a distributor or Mag and NEVER looked for the flywheel mark. It isn't necessary IF you are at TDC of Compression on #1.
 I would also say, you are NOT at TDC if the mark isn't visible.

I agree with Charlie, the finger over the cylinder and feeling the piston in the cylinder for TDC is the way to go. It doesn't lie.
Get that number 1 at TDC...then
And take your cover off of your distributor and see where it is pointing. It should be about 11 oclock I think...and that should be where the number one wire is on the dist cap.

I had trouble getting my C going a while back...mine was a bad magneto. Had to get mag rebuild... Once I got it good spark at the spark plug and got everthing where is should be, she ran!





It is great being a disciple of Jesus! 1950 WD, 1957 D17...retired in Iowa,
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Adam Stratton Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Jan 2017 at 7:57pm
One crazy idea, are you sure there isn't a blockage between the carb and intake? I've had mud dauber nests, acorns and all sorts of things show up in dead tractors. Can't even get either past a good plug and then it won't fire. Wouldn't hurt to check. Also make sure throttle butterfly moves like it should while you are there.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WF owner Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Jan 2017 at 8:21pm
Have you tried turning it over with the distributor cap off? Is the distributor turning smoothly when it's turning over?

Is it possible that the advance in the distributor is stuck in the advance position and advancing the spark too much?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AJ Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Jan 2017 at 8:32pm
Going through the process now. Will be posting pics and what I've done.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Jan 2017 at 10:18pm
AJ, I don't mean to be harsh, but your not listing or understanding the procedure yet.  I hope you have it now....... You REALLY need a second person to look in the flywheel hole and see the TDC since you don't have a good idea of where it is.. On the "B"s I have worked on , the crank arm (tool) is normally horizontal I believe when you are at TDC.... Crank slowly with someones finger over the #1 plug hole.. when you feel it coming up on compression, then have the guy look into the flywheel hole... continue to crank slowly about 45- 90 degrees until the piston comes all the way up and you see TDC in the flywheel inspection hole.......... I don't believe you have ever got to this point yet..  YOU CAN NOT install the distributor until you get the TDC in the hole visible and #1 piston is on compression .
 
With the motor set a TDC, slide the distributor into the hole with the rotor pointing "about" at #1 wire...... then rotate it back and forth until you see the point start to open, or start to close.. the break point is where you lock down the mounting bolt... should start now.


Edited by steve(ill) - 05 Jan 2017 at 10:28pm
Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Jan 2017 at 10:20pm
.......... if you cant get the point to start open- start close, then you are off a tooth or two on the distributor install... pull it up a couple inches, turn slightly and reinstall... then see if you can get the point to open.
Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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