| Author |
 Topic Search  Topic Options
|
TomYaz 
Orange Level
Joined: 14 Sep 2009
Location: PA
Points: 10325
|
 Post Options
 Thanks(0)
 Quote  Reply
 Topic: All-Crop Rebuild Pics Round 2
Posted: 18 Dec 2010 at 4:44pm |
Ok just got some of the frame put together. Also some pics of some of the new sheet metal. Using heavier guage to allow one piece assemblys...
All starts with bolting to pieces together..parts of this color have a powder coat primer
The other side. new Grade 5 or 8 bolts used
Detail of the other end. Lighter prime is a wet primer. Derusting and priming done by two different parties, Me and a sandblaster
Looks like an erector set. Some of the smaller pieces I had time to put a coat of
paint early on...
What we got done it a couple hours
Single heavier guage sheet metal replaces a three part sub assembly
One sheet seperator backside...
Detail of thicker metal
|
 |
|
Sponsored Links
|
|
|
JimIA
Orange Level
Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Castalia Iowa
Points: 1980
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 18 Dec 2010 at 4:47pm |
|
Tom, when you said you were going to rebuild an All-Crop I thought you were going to rebuild, not build! I am amazed. It will be a brand new machine! Would love to own a new All-Crop if not for the $$$! But I must say, money well spent! You should just start an assembly line!
btw, did you get the package yet?
Jim
|
|
TomYaz
Orange Level
Joined: 14 Sep 2009
Location: PA
Points: 10325
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 18 Dec 2010 at 5:14pm |
 JimIA wrote:
Tom, when you said you were going to rebuild an All-Crop I thought you were going to rebuild, not build! I am amazed. It will be a brand new machine! Would love to own a new All-Crop if not for the $$$! But I must say, money well spent! You should just start an assembly line!
btw, did you get the package yet?
Jim
|
thanks well I wanted to provide something as close as brand new as possible. Course it wont be cheap. Rather do 1 or 2 of these than a dozen dupont overhauls.
Not didnt get the gear yet.
|
|
Don Smith
Silver Level
Joined: 13 Sep 2009
Location: Indiana
Points: 132
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 18 Dec 2010 at 5:36pm |
|
Tom You do craftsman work, what I mean is you pay attention to detail. A lost art in our society. My hat off to you!!
|
|
TomYaz
Orange Level
Joined: 14 Sep 2009
Location: PA
Points: 10325
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 18 Dec 2010 at 5:45pm |
Don Smith wrote:
Tom You do craftsman work, what I mean is you pay attention to detail. A lost art in our society. My hat off to you!! |
Thanks Don, but I didnt do squat as far as metal work. Its all hired out.
Im not much good except for scraping rust and taking off and on bolts.
But I do have the "vision" thing....LOL! the one piece sheet metal is my idea..
Edited by TomYaz - 18 Dec 2010 at 5:46pm
|
|
allischalmerguy
Orange Level
Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Deep River, IA
Points: 2880
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 18 Dec 2010 at 6:56pm |
|
Tom,
I can hardly wait to see it when it is finished! I would love to restore and all crop someday!
Mike in Iowa
|
|
Ryan Renko
Orange Level
Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Edwardsville, I
Points: 2325
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 18 Dec 2010 at 7:07pm |
|
Danm, you aint screwing around Tom!!! It outta run like a swiss watch when you are done. Great work. Ryan
|
|
Eric NY
Bronze Level
Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Perry, NY
Points: 59
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 18 Dec 2010 at 7:14pm |
|
And I thought some of the tractors I've done were quite a project! This looks like it will be an amazing piece of "art work" when your done. Can't wait to see the finished product pics. Eric NY
|
|
TomYaz
Orange Level
Joined: 14 Sep 2009
Location: PA
Points: 10325
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 18 Dec 2010 at 7:29pm |
Thanks Guys...
Question: What serial should engrave in the panel....the original "A25510" or "Y-A25510"...
Edited by TomYaz - 18 Dec 2010 at 7:29pm
|
|
Ryan Renko
Orange Level
Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Edwardsville, I
Points: 2325
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 18 Dec 2010 at 8:32pm |
I would put the "Y-A25510" on it. It was a Allis Chalmers masterpiece in its day and you are doing a great job of trying to keep these classics from all going to China. Amen my brother.
|
|
TomYaz
Orange Level
Joined: 14 Sep 2009
Location: PA
Points: 10325
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 18 Dec 2010 at 9:51pm |
|
|
|
GBACBFan
Orange Level
Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Green Bay WI
Points: 2662
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 18 Dec 2010 at 10:15pm |
I reviewed your web page with interest as it relates to your reconstructions, and I really like your improvements to build them for work and not for show. I think you're on to something.
Your site shows taking the hubs, disassembling, cleaning and installing new seals and bushings. Have you considered retrofitting the spindles to a tractor spindle, or some such spindle/hub combination that has roller bearings to minimize the frequent grease requirements of the bushed hubs? It would seem there are sufficient tractor spindle/hub options in the parts market to make this a viable, cost effective alternative.
Please take this as a thought, and not a criticism. Your rebuild is looking awsome. I'm anxious to see the pictoral of the build as you move to completion.
|
|
"The trouble with quotes on the Internet is that you can never know if they
are genuine." - Mark Twain
|
|
Reeseholler
Orange Level
Joined: 28 Mar 2010
Location: Port Matilda PA
Points: 294
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 18 Dec 2010 at 10:23pm |
|
Warranty to boot! Great job!
|
|
TomYaz
Orange Level
Joined: 14 Sep 2009
Location: PA
Points: 10325
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 19 Dec 2010 at 7:58am |
GBACBFan wrote:
I reviewed your web page with interest as it relates to your reconstructions, and I really like your improvements to build them for work and not for show. I think you're on to something.
Your site shows taking the hubs, disassembling, cleaning and installing new seals and bushings. Have you considered retrofitting the spindles to a tractor spindle, or some such spindle/hub combination that has roller bearings to minimize the frequent grease requirements of the bushed hubs? It would seem there are sufficient tractor spindle/hub options in the parts market to make this a viable, cost effective alternative.
Please take this as a thought, and not a criticism. Your rebuild is looking awsome. I'm anxious to see the pictoral of the build as you move to completion.
|
Yes I have. The off the shelf alternatives would need to be modified, or the frame modified (hacked) to make them fit. Like a lot of old stuff, the sizes are often not standardized like today. It would be nice to do what you suggest, but with so many other issues to deal with right now, its best to leave that sleeping dog lay for now.
|
|
TomYaz
Orange Level
Joined: 14 Sep 2009
Location: PA
Points: 10325
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 19 Dec 2010 at 8:13am |
Actually Guys I have a question:
That heavy seperator sheet metal is not what I ordered. Screw up. I wanted thinner galvanized. While a heavy gauge has its merits as I mentioned, it will add weight that will make the combine always want to sit on its backside. Also, if I had galvanized, I wouldnt have to paint the inside of the seperator.
I could have it wet painted prior to installation but that is a seperate paint job to pay for.
Or
Thinking just get this heavy steel powder coated orange with the other parts I need powder coated prior to assembly. Having off color orange on the inside Im not worried about, and assembled frame and chassis will get a wet coat of PO #1
On the weight issue,
Perhapd mounting a trailer jack on the rear...seems tacky...
Or
Just have the metal made again...
Your thoughts?
Edited by TomYaz - 19 Dec 2010 at 8:15am
|
|
Jim Lindemood
Orange Level
Joined: 22 Sep 2009
Location: Dry Ridge, KY
Points: 2569
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 19 Dec 2010 at 8:41am |
|
Wow -- gonna be really nice. -- as for weight, I really like my 60 balanced in a that I can move it around the barn by hand. Adding a jack to counter balance might work. Don't know how heavy your back is, but wouldn't want to pick up and fine as ya raise the tongue that the back would keep on going - requiring manual down pressure while trying to move. Just some thoughts.
|
|
TomYaz
Orange Level
Joined: 14 Sep 2009
Location: PA
Points: 10325
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 19 Dec 2010 at 8:55am |
Jim Lindemood wrote:
Wow -- gonna be really nice. -- as for weight, I really like my 60 balanced in a that I can move it around the barn by hand. Adding a jack to counter balance might work. Don't know how heavy your back is, but wouldn't want to pick up and fine as ya raise the tongue that the back would keep on going - requiring manual down pressure while trying to move. Just some thoughts. |
Yeah I think this is going to an issue. Will have to remake those pieces...ouch! My fab man thought I wanted all the pieces thick when I just wanted the concave sides done heavy.
Problem with jack on the back is that would be used to adjust tongue to hook up to tractor. Sounds like a pain to me.
Perhaps I ought to back that out of my website.
|
|
GBACBFan
Orange Level
Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Green Bay WI
Points: 2662
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 19 Dec 2010 at 10:07am |
I can only imagine the challenges you have on this project. It's quite the undertaking.
What is the weight difference in the new plate and the old three place panel? You could add offset weight the tongue if it didn't adversly affect the overall weight of the unit. Just a thought.
For other types of projects I have successfully used tractor spindles when building axles. I've attached a pic of a rectangular tube axle with B spindles welded into the ends. The spindle uprights, or bushing surfaces were worn beyond use, so I used them for my cart/trailer axle.
I enjoy recycling parts into other uses, but I can't top your project for magnitude. Keep the updates coming, and I've got your website captured to my favorites. Awesome work.
|
|
"The trouble with quotes on the Internet is that you can never know if they
are genuine." - Mark Twain
|
|
David Maddux
Orange Level
Joined: 13 Sep 2009
Points: 2526
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 19 Dec 2010 at 10:38am |
|
I have a question on the powder coating primer. Do you have to continue with a top coat in the powder coat or can conventional paint stick to the powder coated metal?
|
|
Curt-Indiana
Silver Level
Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Indiana
Points: 71
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 19 Dec 2010 at 10:57am |
|
We have a shop here that builds all type of farm items from stainless steel. He builds cattle feeders, grain truck beds and almost any thing else used on the farm. Have you thought of using ss for the inside of the machine. I have had him make some parts for me for my 72's that I have redone. Works and paints good.
|
|
TomYaz
Orange Level
Joined: 14 Sep 2009
Location: PA
Points: 10325
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 19 Dec 2010 at 12:16pm |
GBACBFan wrote:
I can only imagine the challenges you have on this project. It's quite the undertaking.
What is the weight difference in the new plate and the old three place panel? You could add offset weight the tongue if it didn't adversly affect the overall weight of the unit. Just a thought.
For other types of projects I have successfully used tractor spindles when building axles. I've attached a pic of a rectangular tube axle with B spindles welded into the ends. The spindle uprights, or bushing surfaces were worn beyond use, so I used them for my cart/trailer axle.
I enjoy recycling parts into other uses, but I can't top your project for magnitude. Keep the updates coming, and I've got your website captured to my favorites. Awesome work.
|
That looks good. Yes its something I would like to address, but not a burning issue right now. Alos whatever I do I got to be able to support it with parts if need be. I cant just make it up as I go along.
That new back seperator piece is heavy--almost takes two people. Then I got the other side and the bottom heavy to boot. Adding weight on the front just seems wrong; reflects bad design, IMHO, plus as was realated, being able to roll the machine around manually is a plus.
|
|
TomYaz
Orange Level
Joined: 14 Sep 2009
Location: PA
Points: 10325
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 19 Dec 2010 at 12:17pm |
David Maddux wrote:
I have a question on the powder coating primer. Do you have to continue with a top coat in the powder coat or can conventional paint stick to the powder coated metal? |
Yes I believe you can top-coat with another powder. I am going to wet paint it though. You have to lightly sand it first. This powder coat primer is almost like paint itself. Very good stuff.
|
|
TomYaz
Orange Level
Joined: 14 Sep 2009
Location: PA
Points: 10325
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 19 Dec 2010 at 12:20pm |
Curt-Indiana wrote:
We have a shop here that builds all type of farm items from stainless steel. He builds cattle feeders, grain truck beds and almost any thing else used on the farm. Have you thought of using ss for the inside of the machine. I have had him make some parts for me for my 72's that I have redone. Works and paints good. |
Curt - "inside"?? not sure what you mean.. Price would be high no doubt...what parts have you had made?
|
|
Lonn
Orange Level
Joined: 16 Sep 2009
Location: Назарово,Russia
Points: 29792
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 19 Dec 2010 at 12:44pm |
TomYaz wrote:
Curt-Indiana wrote:
We have a shop here that builds all type of farm items from stainless steel. He builds cattle feeders, grain truck beds and almost any thing else used on the farm. Have you thought of using ss for the inside of the machine. I have had him make some parts for me for my 72's that I have redone. Works and paints good. |
Curt - "inside"?? not sure what you mean.. Price would be high no doubt...what parts have you had made? |
I few years ago I saw someone who made a stainless steel raddle bottom for his 60 but had issues with it being very hard to work with and kinda brittle. If memory serves me right anyhow. The guy, who ever he was, stated he wouldn't recommend using stainless again. I don't remember if I saw it on this site or some other. Thought it was you Tom. Maybe not.
|
|
-- --- .... .- -- -- .- -.. / .-- .- ... / .- / -- ..- .-. -.. . .-. .. -. --. / -.-. .... .. .-.. -.. / .-. .- .--. .. ... -
Wink
I am a Russian Bot
|
|
TomYaz
Orange Level
Joined: 14 Sep 2009
Location: PA
Points: 10325
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 19 Dec 2010 at 3:38pm |
Lonn wrote:
TomYaz wrote:
Curt-Indiana wrote:
We have a shop here that builds all type of farm items from stainless steel. He builds cattle feeders, grain truck beds and almost any thing else used on the farm. Have you thought of using ss for the inside of the machine. I have had him make some parts for me for my 72's that I have redone. Works and paints good. |
Curt - "inside"?? not sure what you mean.. Price would be high no doubt...what parts have you had made? |
I few years ago I saw someone who made a stainless steel raddle bottom for his 60 but had issues with it being very hard to work with and kinda brittle. If memory serves me right anyhow. The guy, who ever he was, stated he wouldn't recommend using stainless again. I don't remember if I saw it on this site or some other. Thought it was you Tom. Maybe not. |
Nope not me...wonder if your thinking of this guy:
|
|
Curt-Indiana
Silver Level
Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Indiana
Points: 71
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 19 Dec 2010 at 10:23pm |
|
By inside I mean the seperator, Made a pan for under the pickup auger. Had one side made like you did but had it made in the three pieces. Only reason for that was to make it look orginal. I like the way you made it. I think it would be better. As for cost it was not much higher than gal. or black steel. This guy gets it large rolls and cuts it. I am going to make some grain tank parts out of it when I get to repairing that area. Hope to get in the shop alot in Jan.
|
|
Lonn
Orange Level
Joined: 16 Sep 2009
Location: Назарово,Russia
Points: 29792
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 20 Dec 2010 at 7:47am |
TomYaz wrote:
Lonn wrote:
TomYaz wrote:
Curt-Indiana wrote:
We have a shop here that builds all type of farm items from stainless steel. He builds cattle feeders, grain truck beds and almost any thing else used on the farm. Have you thought of using ss for the inside of the machine. I have had him make some parts for me for my 72's that I have redone. Works and paints good. |
Curt - "inside"?? not sure what you mean.. Price would be high no doubt...what parts have you had made? |
I few years ago I saw someone who made a stainless steel raddle bottom for his 60 but had issues with it being very hard to work with and kinda brittle. If memory serves me right anyhow. The guy, who ever he was, stated he wouldn't recommend using stainless again. I don't remember if I saw it on this site or some other. Thought it was you Tom. Maybe not. |
Nope not me...wonder if your thinking of this guy:
|
I don't think it was him. There were pictures showing the stainless pan and he said he wouldn't use stainless again. Of course I just briefly scanned his site.
|
|
-- --- .... .- -- -- .- -.. / .-- .- ... / .- / -- ..- .-. -.. . .-. .. -. --. / -.-. .... .. .-.. -.. / .-. .- .--. .. ... -
Wink
I am a Russian Bot
|
|
bakwoodsfarm
Orange Level
Joined: 02 Sep 2010
Location: Woodleaf,NC
Points: 511
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 20 Dec 2010 at 8:18pm |
TomYaz,
What about 72 axles on a 60/66? My 72 has sealed wheel bearing and no bushings. Just a thought. I've got my end panel made, but can't decide on the material for the floor pan on header. Wonder how thick I can go before the auger hits?
|
|
TomYaz
Orange Level
Joined: 14 Sep 2009
Location: PA
Points: 10325
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 20 Dec 2010 at 8:26pm |
bakwoodsfarm wrote:
TomYaz,
What about 72 axles on a 60/66? My 72 has sealed wheel bearing and no bushings. Just a thought. I've got my end panel made, but can't decide on the material for the floor pan on header. Wonder how thick I can go before the auger hits? |
Yes that would be great. But I am doing 60/66 only. Where do I find all these spare 72 Axles? Most of them are still attached to the combines. One thing I cant do is willy nilly substituting parts erractically. I need to be consistant so as to be able to support the machine once in production.
Cant answer your grain pan question. But speaking of them one improvement I am going to make is to put a clean out door there...
|
|
Rawleigh
Orange Level
Joined: 14 Sep 2009
Location: White Stone, VA
Points: 421
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 21 Dec 2010 at 12:54pm |
Use an ag stub axle and hub like these. Cut off the required length of the existing solid steel round axle, have your machinist counterbore it with an appropriate size hole, insert the stub axle and weld around it. Simple and you have a high speed hub with modern components. No change to frame of wheel placement. Bolt the drive sprocket to the back of the new hub. http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200381465_200381465http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200369643_200369643You can find them cheaper online elsewhere too. Of course if you used the tractor spindle you could offset the wheels to the rear slightly to balance the machine (if you can offset the drive chain since you are doing a 66). Great looking job though!! I cannot wait to see the end result!!
Edited by Rawleigh - 21 Dec 2010 at 1:05pm
|
|
