All starts with bolting to pieces together..parts of this color have a powder coat primer

 

The other side. new Grade 5 or 8 bolts used 

 

Detail of the other end.  Lighter prime is a wet primer. Derusting and priming done by two different parties, Me and a sandblaster

 

Looks like an erector set. Some of the smaller pieces I had time to put a coat of

paint early on...

 

What we got done it a couple hours

 

Single heavier guage sheet metal replaces a three part sub assembly

 

One sheet seperator backside...

 

Detail of thicker metal

thanks well I wanted to provide something as close as brand new as possible. Course it wont be cheap.  Rather do 1 or 2 of these than a dozen dupont overhauls.

 

Not didnt get the gear yet.

 

Thanks Don, but I didnt do squat as far as metal work.  Its all hired out.

 

Im not much good except for scraping rust and taking off and on bolts.

 

But I do have the "vision" thing....LOL! the one piece sheet metal is my idea..

 

 

Question:  What serial should engrave in the panel....the original "A25510" or  "Y-A25510"...

 

 

 

http://www.yazallcrop.com/rebuild.aspx - http://www.yazallcrop.com/rebuild.aspx

 

 

Your site shows taking the hubs, disassembling, cleaning and installing new seals and bushings. Have you considered retrofitting the spindles to a tractor spindle, or some such spindle/hub combination that has roller bearings to minimize the frequent grease requirements of the bushed hubs? It would seem there are sufficient tractor spindle/hub options in the parts market to make this a viable, cost effective alternative.

 

Please take this as a thought, and not a criticism. Your rebuild is looking awsome. I'm anxious to see the pictoral of the build as you move to completion.

 

 

 

Yes I have.  The off the shelf alternatives would need to be modified, or the frame modified (hacked) to make them fit. Like a lot of old stuff, the sizes are often not standardized like today.  It would be nice to do what you suggest, but with so many other issues to deal with right now, its best to leave that sleeping dog lay for now.

 

 

 

Actually Guys I have a question:

 

That heavy seperator sheet metal is not what I ordered. Screw up.  I wanted thinner galvanized. While a heavy gauge has its merits as I mentioned, it will add weight that will make the combine always want to sit on its backside. Also, if I had galvanized, I wouldnt have to paint the inside of the seperator.

 

I could have it wet painted prior to installation but that is a seperate paint job to pay for.

 

Or

 

Thinking just get this heavy steel powder coated orange with the other parts I need powder coated prior to assembly.  Having off color orange on the inside Im not worried about, and assembled frame and chassis will get a wet coat of PO #1

 

On the weight issue,

Perhapd mounting a trailer jack on the rear...seems tacky...

 

Or

 

Just have the metal made again...

 

Your thoughts?

 

 

Yeah I think this is going to an issue.  Will have to remake those pieces...ouch! My fab man thought I wanted all the pieces thick when I just wanted the concave sides done heavy.

 

Problem with jack on the back is that would be used to adjust tongue to hook up to tractor. Sounds like a pain to me.

 

Perhaps I ought to back that out of my  website.

 

What is the weight difference in the new plate and the old three place panel? You could add offset weight the tongue if it didn't adversly affect the overall weight of the unit. Just a thought.

 

For other types of projects I have successfully used tractor spindles when building axles. I've attached a pic of a rectangular tube axle with B spindles welded into the ends. The spindle uprights, or bushing surfaces were worn beyond use, so I used them for my cart/trailer axle.

 

I enjoy recycling parts into other uses, but I can't top your project for magnitude. Keep the updates coming, and I've got your website captured to my favorites. Awesome work.

 

That looks good. Yes its something I would like to address, but not a burning issue right now.  Alos whatever I do I got to be able to support it with parts if need be. I cant just make it up as I go along. 

 

That new back seperator piece is heavy--almost takes two people. Then I got the other side and the bottom heavy to boot.  Adding weight on the front just seems wrong; reflects bad design, IMHO, plus as was realated, being able to roll the machine around manually is a plus.

Yes I believe you can top-coat with another powder.  I am going to wet paint it though.  You have to lightly sand it first. This powder coat primer is almost like paint itself. Very good stuff.

 

Curt - "inside"?? not sure what you mean.. Price would be high no doubt...what parts have you had made?

I few years ago I saw someone who made a stainless steel raddle bottom for his 60 but had issues with it being very hard to work with and kinda brittle. If memory serves me right anyhow. The guy, who ever he was, stated he wouldn't recommend using stainless again. I don't remember if I saw it on this site or some other. Thought it was you Tom. Maybe not.

 

http://faracresfarm.com/jbvb/faf/ac_66.html - http://faracresfarm.com/jbvb/faf/ac_66.html

I don't think it was him. There were pictures showing the stainless pan and he said he wouldn't use stainless again. Of course I just briefly scanned his site.

What about 72 axles on a 60/66? My 72 has sealed wheel bearing and no bushings. Just a thought. I've got my end panel made, but can't decide on the material for the floor pan on header. Wonder how thick I can go before the auger hits?

 

Yes that would be great. But I am doing 60/66 only. Where do I find all these spare 72 Axles? Most of them are still attached to the combines.  One thing I cant do is willy nilly substituting parts erractically. I need to be consistant so as to be able to support the machine once in production.

 

Cant answer your grain pan question. But speaking of them one improvement  I am going to make is to put a clean out door there...

 

 

Thanks.  It will be a while...I am going to put some more pieces of the frame on this weekend.

 

On those axles....Im not sure those are high speed (not specified on the link)

I have seen similar versions elsewhere but had limits on ground speed.

If I knew for sure my speed would be greater that would be a possible replacement.

But for this first one Im not going there as I am losing my shirt on this one already.

 

 

 

 

 

Did some research looks like the type 42 spindle has the best chance of working..

 

then it occurred to me..

 

Um, how am I going to drive the reel? 

 

I guess I would have to drive the wheel of perhaps the sickle drive pulley..

On the Axle issue.  You might try this outfit.  They offer axles, hubs and bearing kits at good price.  Also If you ask they can probably supply axle of a slightly longer length at a reasonable price.  As for reel drive, I can't help as I do not have a machine here to mock-up pieces to fit. - AL

  http://www.championtrailers.com/spindles_n_parts.html - http://www.championtrailers.com/spindles_n_parts.html

 

 

Thanks Al.

 

a question I have....If you look at the drawing on that page, I have a question about measurement "A"...I need to know the total distance from the far end of the spindle  to

the outer edge of the hub facing after the hub is installed... they dont provide that info..It cant be too short....I suppose I should call. .... but they dont have a 2" shaft as I need...

I agree, more info is needed.  But I believe they have the capability to provide a longer and larger spindle.  They also have hubs(6 bolt) that may fit your rims.

Thanks Rawleigh...but just remember every proposed solution has to be relatively cheap and repeatable...

Good to know...thanks