On a B allis

On a B. Can you remove the standard rear axles from the final drive housings without removing the big nut and wheel from the axle first? 

The C axle shaft is longer.  My B (adjustable front axle) came with 5 bolt flanges that are splined onto the axle shaft just like the larger (arched axle) wheel centers.

I thought avoiding answering the QUESTION was reserved for the politix forum.

    Please read my post again and try to answer my only question. Thanks

Why would you want me to reread your post? Do you think I could understand it any better reading it the second time? If I had understood it in the first place I would have had to tell you that I didn't know. Now what would that do to me reputation? Gee Whiz

The answer to your question is "technically yes". !!! The problem is with the seal. The seal riides in a smooth ring that is pressed onto the axle shaft and is outboard of the bearing. The bearing inner ring  also usually is a slight press. I have taken several apart as you ask but have always damaged the seal in the process as the bearing wants to attempt to pull the seal by it's ID. Then there is the issue of assembly. On a B it's usually best to press the bearingi onto the axle, then insert the axle into the outer race that is already pressed into the housing. Then the seal goes in next. This allows easy setting of the end play of the bearings without the weight of the outer hub. I would suggest that you try to repair the hub and axle first. Liquid steel does a wonderful job when everything is clean. Many John Deere 440B skidders have their hubs held on with liquid steel in this manner. I was just forced to disassemble one of my B axles as you suggest. I couldn't take the hub off because I had put it on years ago with liquid steel. It took a 20 ton jack pushing on the inside of the axle before things stared to move. The bearing destroyed the seal on it's way out. I was then able to press the hub off the axle after it was off the tractor. If the spline is worn taking things apart should be easy. My suggestion is that you try a dry assembly before you start welding. You'll have a very good idea of the problem involved. Good luck

B Normal, 5 bolt B, and C in that order. Whatever your question is, here's what all three look like side by side courtesy of DickL from a post a long time ago.

Hey Dick, that looks like my shop floor! lol

Ya Brad, that is your picture. I never had the B axle with the bolts. I put a picture with the B and C side by side a long time ago. I looked for the picture yesterday and couldn't find it.  You the man Brad.

Wigtrain

GBACBFan- My B had 5 bolt flanges that are splined onto the (your left image) standard B axle shaft...yet another variation?

Ken, here is a link to the Moglice website. You would want their structural alignment material. It can be used to solve the bad spline problem but is also removable. It takes about 600 degrees to soften and then you can pull it apart. I have used this stuff to remount a flywheel on a 25,000 ton  forge press and it stayed until the company could run enough parts ahead to allow downtime to make needed repairs(about six months). http://www.moglice.com/
The biggest drawback might be the expense. The containers we got cost about $100 I think and it always said to mix the entire batch. No measuring devices given to break it up into smaller batches. That might be enough to do about 6 tractors both sides.