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Oil change frequency |
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Travis2766
Silver Level Joined: 26 Aug 2015 Location: Amherst, Wi Points: 407 |
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Posted: 08 Feb 2024 at 8:18pm |
How often is everyone changing oil on your tractors that see little to no hours per year? I change oil and filter once per year for the working tractors or every 100 hours (whichever is first) but is it a bad idea to change oil every two years on a tractor that gets used for 10 or less hours per year? Just trying to pinch some pennies where I can. I’m sure there’s a difference between conventional and synthetic oil change intervals for this situation also?
Edited by Travis2766 - 08 Feb 2024 at 8:19pm |
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190XT Series III, D17 Series IV, D15 Series II, All Crop 66 and a whole mess of equipment.
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DMac
Bronze Level Joined: 18 Feb 2023 Location: Springville ny Points: 74 |
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I think 2 years is fine on low hour stuff possibly even 3. That’s what I’ve been doing. I suspect many tractors have went much longer than that and are still going. Todays oils are much better than they were years ago.
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steve(ill)
Orange Level Access Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: illinois Points: 81102 |
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I have several "B" tractors... Sickle, 2- belly mowers, blade.. They vary from 10- 50 hours per year.. I was changing every year... but this winter i did service on all and started 2 year intervals on the oil.. and i did NOT change the filter.. It is a Bypass Filter and should be good for a long time.. At $15- 20 EACH, i think that is justified. I might do the filters at 4 years.. Not decided yet.
Dont forget about the antifreeze.. I noted a couple of mine have been 10 - 12 years !!... I drained, flushed and added new Extended Life Yellow and will do at 6 or 8 year intervals.
Edited by steve(ill) - 08 Feb 2024 at 9:13pm |
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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DanielW
Bronze Level Joined: 19 Sep 2022 Location: Ontario Points: 165 |
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I try and convince myself that I change the oil on everything at least once a year for the major equipment and once every two years for the lesser stuff. But it tends to slide on several tractors. I think 2-3 years is fine with good oil and filter. I always throw a bit of that Lucas oil stabilizer stuff in. It has some light tackifiers in it, so it keeps a coating of oil on all the top end components that might elsewise sit dry.
For the stuff that only sees a few hours here and there, it's important to get it up to working temp for at least a few hours each year. That way any water from condensation in the oil gets a chance to evaporate out. I think the gear/rear-end oil in some of these tractors is more concerning than the engine oil if they sit a lot. Those big castings with lots of air space allow for a lot of condensation to accumulate on the inside, and they don't usually get hot enough when running to evaporate it out. I have a few Fordson Majors and IH W6 that really accumulate condensation in the rear end at an alarming rate over winter: If I leave them sit for a few weeks after winter to let the oil and water separate, I can pull the drain plug and drain out half a quart of water before any oil starts to come out. I try to do that every spring before using them. I probably should be changing the gear oil more often, but it's pricey stuff, and it takes quite a lot of it.
Edited by DanielW - 09 Feb 2024 at 9:14am |
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steve(ill)
Orange Level Access Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: illinois Points: 81102 |
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If I leave them sit for a few weeks to let the oil and water separate, I can pull the drain plug and drain out half a quart of water
WOW.. i have never seen that before ! Must be specific to your weather area ? I just did major service on 4 little B tractors and changed the 8 quarts of lube in the trans/ hydraulics after 10 - 15 years on each... 3 were clean... One showed evidence of some moisture.
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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DrAllis
Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 20487 |
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Spend 20 bucks and take an engine oil sample and have it analyzed. They can tell you if your change interval is too long or not.
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DanielW
Bronze Level Joined: 19 Sep 2022 Location: Ontario Points: 165 |
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Yeah, I think it's partially due to our colder winters, and partially due to the lake effect here by Lake Ontario - lots more moisture in the air, and a lot more temperature fluctuating right around the dew-point where condensation occurs. The different tractors are also very different in how much moisture they accumulate - how large and how much air space is in the rear end and tranny castings. The Fordson, W6, and Massey 555 with their massive, hefty castings provide lots of cold surface area for the water to condense on. The 180 isn't great either, but I think because I use it more it doesn't get a chance to separate - they need to sit motionless for at least a few weeks for the water to separate to the bottom. The other tractors with less open air space in the casting are fine. I wondered about putting a desiccant breather on some of them, but haven't got around to it yet.
Edited by DanielW - 09 Feb 2024 at 7:34am |
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Les Kerf
Orange Level Joined: 08 May 2020 Location: Idaho Points: 777 |
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Yup. My John Deere Model A has massive castings with lots of exposed internal surface area; it will condense quite a bit of water just sitting in the shed over the winter. This is not only in the gearbox but also in the engine. I loosen the drain plug until it is just about to fall out, this allows the water to drain but the oil will only drip once the water is gone. I have never actually measured the amount but it is certainly more than I want to leave in there.
Edited by Les Kerf - 09 Feb 2024 at 9:48am |
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Les Kerf
Orange Level Joined: 08 May 2020 Location: Idaho Points: 777 |
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I agree.
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gleaner1
Silver Level Joined: 17 Dec 2009 Points: 216 |
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I work for a construction equipment manufacturer we use fpt(cnh) engines. These things see hard use. Fpt requires 600 hour intervals. One large customer of ours installs oil bypass filtration kits on
and extends that to 1000 hours with oil routine oil samples. I would never run any engine i own that long before an oil change. |
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ALLIS CHALMERS "The color is orange"
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Phil48ACWC
Silver Level Joined: 17 Jan 2013 Location: Vermont Points: 288 |
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My WC engine was overhauled about 400 hours ago and the tractor is used year round. The WC's don't have an hour meter, so I put an Hour meter on and change the oil and filter every 130 Hours. No guess work. I know the AC manual for the WC says 100 hours, but at 100 hours my oil looks very clean on the dip stick and doesn't need changing. I run 10W-30 full Synthetic and could easily stretch it to 150 hours but oil changes are a lot cheaper than engine overhauls. Click on below:
Look closely, some of the meters will work on a 6V system.
Edited by Phil48ACWC - 12 Feb 2024 at 5:48am |
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Unit3
Orange Level Joined: 17 Oct 2009 Location: NC Iowa Points: 5532 |
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Oh you’re all going to hate on me. The gassers, C-WD45, haven’t been changed in 15 years. The 8050 pulled the planter and gets fresh oil every year. All others, every two years. Big Blue and the combine every hundred. My 76 Olds went 20 years once. I change it every 2000 miles. I still ended up changing it early. It still looked good.
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2-8070FWA PS/8050PS/7080/7045PS/200/D15-II/2-WD45/WD/3-WC/UC/C
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Codger
Orange Level Joined: 23 Dec 2020 Location: Illinois Points: 2053 |
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My intervals are a bit different. When the level drops to the mark that says "ADD", I add oil. I've never seen it to the point where it says "CHANGE" so I just put a little more in till the level rises back to the "ADD" mark. Now once again in familiar territory, I then bring the level up to the "FULL" or top mark on the stick and call it good. What a bunch of B/S right? I've changed oil at 5K intervals on the cars and trucks with 10W-30 oil since 1976. 200hrs on anything equipment related whether gasoline, or diesel fueled. Diesel trucks 10K, or once a year in the fall just before winter cold sets in. Car currently has 306K, pickup has 256K, and old Mack truck has about 500K. Nothing uses oil.
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A career built on repairing and improving engineering design deficiencies, shortcomings, and failures over 50 years now.
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DrAllis
Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 20487 |
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What brand/type of oil Codger ???
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WF owner
Orange Level Joined: 12 May 2013 Location: Bombay NY Points: 4664 |
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I remember my brother-in-law bragging to an old mechanic that he changed oil in his car every 3000 miles, even though the recommended interval was much longer. The mechanic's reply was "If you want waste oil and your money, that's your business."
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IBWD MIke
Orange Level Joined: 08 Apr 2012 Location: Newton Ia. Points: 3727 |
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I work with one of those guys! He runs Mobile 1 too! I just shake my head.
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Dakota Dave
Orange Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: ND Points: 3938 |
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my tractor spend alot of time just sitting in the shed. they have between 5 and 10 years since the last oil change. I do check and add oil when I use them. when they sat ouitside I changed every 2 years I did have condensation problems then. I also always run till they are well warmed up when I start one usually 1 to 2 hours. the working tractor at the farm get changed every fall before being put away till next year the Feed tractor gets changed every spring and every fall. its the only tractor that gets close to 1000 hours in a year the rest are a few hundered hours.
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Travis2766
Silver Level Joined: 26 Aug 2015 Location: Amherst, Wi Points: 407 |
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When I first got my D17 I used it a lot and I would change it every year, since I bought my 190 and D15 the D17 sits most of the year and only does loader and snowblower work. Got maybe 10 hours since the last change. I use conventional oil and always add Seafoam to my oil so I'm guessing by everyone's responses 2-3 years between changes wouldn't be an issue.
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190XT Series III, D17 Series IV, D15 Series II, All Crop 66 and a whole mess of equipment.
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Codger
Orange Level Joined: 23 Dec 2020 Location: Illinois Points: 2053 |
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Up till the late 1980's was always using Quaker State products for the gasoline engines, and Chevron for the Diesel engines private labeled as "FS". Wife's grandpa drove for FS for many years and we got the oil from him. Still use the same Chevron Delo 400 in four stoke diesels, Delo 100 in straight weights for the two stroke Detroit Diesels, (20WT and 40WT) I have around, and usually Mobil 10W-30 in the gasoline engines. I use the local distributor that treats me right as the source and they distribute both Chevron, and Exxon/Mobil products. I do however purchase in barrels. Always Wix, or Baldwin filters as they seem to support the older engines pretty well yet.
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A career built on repairing and improving engineering design deficiencies, shortcomings, and failures over 50 years now.
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Steve in NJ
Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Andover, NJ Points: 11791 |
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Well, I'm one of those 3500 mile guys to, but I only use synthetic in one of my cars which is Jo Jo's Caddy. Her little CTS gets the oil changed every 7500, which now since she's been retired the past few years will be quite some time being she really doesn't go anywhere other than the grocery store. LOL! And the shop Van sits other than going to the P.O. which is about 8 miles away. But with almost 200K on the shop Van, I can go out there right now pull the dipstick out and it looks like I just changed the oil. A clean engine is a happy engine boys. I do the trans every 50K, and I'm one of those Mechanic guys.... Steve@B&B
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39'RC, 43'WC, 48'B, 49'G, 50'WF, 65 Big 10, 67'B-110, 75'716H, 2-620's, & a Motorhead wife
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ACinSC
Orange Level Joined: 16 Dec 2015 Location: South Carolina Points: 2761 |
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I run conventional oil in my D 15 and old C 10
Change both about once a year Newer truck and Tahoe get Mobil 1 and I change the oil when the computer says to. |
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Codger
Orange Level Joined: 23 Dec 2020 Location: Illinois Points: 2053 |
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My pickup is a 96 Dodge 3500 with V-10 engine and automatic transmission. Never have had a transmission problem and the first 200K of the trucks life the transmission was serviced every first week of October every other year. I know few with the vintage of truck that haven't had transmission problems with the Dodge transmissions. My engines run very clean internally also. With exception of the old mechanical diesels, and two strokers which darken quite quickly, everything runs clean. I really don't have anything that consumes oil even though high mileage. Rust always puts my stuff down once it reaches diminishing returns for me.
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A career built on repairing and improving engineering design deficiencies, shortcomings, and failures over 50 years now.
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Unit3
Orange Level Joined: 17 Oct 2009 Location: NC Iowa Points: 5532 |
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Archer oil 15W40 in the diesels and Quaker State 10W30 in the gassers. Hydraulic oil is Archer Uni fluid.
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2-8070FWA PS/8050PS/7080/7045PS/200/D15-II/2-WD45/WD/3-WC/UC/C
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resurrection20
Bronze Level Joined: 14 Nov 2023 Location: Oregon Points: 78 |
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You lot are a trip! I'm a former neurotic dealership mechanic and I can't not follow maintenance schedules to a T for cars. For the cars snd trucks, I usually get Mobile 1 Advanced full synthetic when it goes on sale for around $25 with a filter for like another $10 that claims to last for 10K miles or 12 months and a matching filter and then set a reminder on my phone. My pickup got 380 (hard) miles last year. Waste of money? Maybe. But everything I have is over 30 years old and runs like it's brand new. I'm buying piece of mind. For someone with my mentality, it really helps me sleep at night. Otherwise I lay awake imagining bearing and rocker arm damage.
However, I've only been a tractor owner (Head over heels for my old B!) since November. I was just going to do oil, finals and UTF every spring before I started mowing. It'll get firewood in the fall and then sit until mowing season again. Edited by resurrection20 - 29 Feb 2024 at 11:18pm |
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BenGiBoy
Orange Level Joined: 11 Nov 2015 Location: Ashville, NY Points: 696 |
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I change my B once a year. It doesn't really get enough hours to need more, and what I spent on the rebuild is reason enough to change it for me.
Many years ago I was researching oil and the best one was AMSOIL so I got a dealer license and started using it in everything. |
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'39 Model B
Tractors are cheaper than girls, remember that! |
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ACinSC
Orange Level Joined: 16 Dec 2015 Location: South Carolina Points: 2761 |
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Recently read an article that claims oil life doesn't matter as much as actual usage. Hard to know what to believe. I still change my old D 15 about once a year.
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560Dennis
Bronze Level Joined: 30 Apr 2011 Location: NE OHIO Points: 116 |
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every fall , removes the acidic results
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resurrection20
Bronze Level Joined: 14 Nov 2023 Location: Oregon Points: 78 |
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Hey Codger,
What do you think of putting Delo 400 SAE 30 in a Model B? It was on sale and it wasn't until I got home that I saw that the only API spec on the jug was CF. The Chevron website says it's also SJ...but then why isn't it on the jug? |
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steve(ill)
Orange Level Access Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: illinois Points: 81102 |
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The DELCO 400 will work fine in a B. Think of the quality of engine oil in 1940... ANYTHING is better than that today.. The addatives will not help or hurt in a 80 year old tractor.
I would be more concerned about the straight weight 30..... Not the best if your 30 degrees or less outside... ? Edited by steve(ill) - 05 Mar 2024 at 8:19am |
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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resurrection20
Bronze Level Joined: 14 Nov 2023 Location: Oregon Points: 78 |
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I live on the Oregon Coast, which is one of the most temperate places in the world (Fortuna, CA is the most) based on lack of temperature variation. The hottest month is August with an average of 59 F and the coldest is December with 46 F. The yearly average is 52F. We had three days this winter below freezing and they were high 20's at night and in the high 30's during the day.
On Sunday I did go out joyriding and it was 36 F overnight and then in the low 40's during the day. 45 F at noon and then trended down the rest of the day. I thought anything above 32 was okay for SAE 30? The ocean has a temperature modulating effect, the California Current brings warm water up from the Sea of Cortez in Mexico and raises the water temp to 54 F. Southern winds bring warmer air all winter, too. We actually don't have a wind-chill effect here, we have a wind-warming. The windiest days are the warmest. We get the most surfers in the winter due to warmer water and air and bigger waves from offshore storms. Oregon has had a disgustingly warm winter this year. I'm a huge snowboarder and have only made it to the mountains twice because there's almost never any powder. Just rock-hard icy groomers and early season conditions. All summer we get cold water and wind down from the Bering Sea and Alaska/Canada and even though it's sunny, it's colder outside! The ocean temp drops to 52 F! Edited by resurrection20 - 05 Mar 2024 at 11:03am |
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