Dont forget about the antifreeze.. I noted a couple of mine have been 10 - 12 years !!... I  drained, flushed and added new Extended Life Yellow and will do at 6 or 8 year intervals.

For the stuff that only sees a few hours here and there, it's important to get it up to working temp for at least a few hours each year. That way any water from condensation in the oil gets a chance to evaporate out.

I think the gear/rear-end oil in some of these tractors is more concerning than the engine oil if they sit a lot. Those big castings with lots of air space allow for a lot of condensation to accumulate on the inside, and they don't usually get hot enough when running to evaporate it out. I have a few Fordson Majors and IH W6 that really accumulate condensation in the rear end at an alarming rate over winter: If I leave them sit for a few weeks after winter to let the oil and water separate, I can pull the drain plug and drain out half a quart of water before any oil starts to come out. I try to do that every spring before using them. I probably should be changing the gear oil more often, but it's pricey stuff, and it takes quite a lot of it.

Yeah, I think it's partially due to our colder winters, and partially due to the lake effect here by Lake Ontario - lots more moisture in the air, and a lot more temperature fluctuating right around the dew-point where condensation occurs.

The different tractors are also very different in how much moisture they accumulate - how large and how much air space is in the rear end and tranny castings. The Fordson, W6, and Massey 555 with their massive, hefty castings provide lots of cold surface area for the water to condense on. The 180 isn't great either, but I think because I use it more it doesn't get a chance to separate - they need to sit motionless for at least a few weeks for the water to separate to the bottom. The other tractors with less open air space in the casting are fine. I wondered about putting a desiccant breather on some of them, but haven't got around to it yet.

Yup.

My John Deere Model A has massive castings with lots of exposed internal surface area; it will condense quite a bit of water just sitting in the shed over the winter. This is not only in the gearbox but also in the engine.

I loosen the drain plug until it is just about to fall out, this allows the water to drain but the oil will only drip once the water is gone. I have never actually measured the amount but it is certainly more than I want to leave in there.

steve(ill) wrote: ... and i did NOT change the filter.. It is a Bypass Filter and should be good for a long time..   At $15- 20 EACH, i think that is justified.  I might do the filters at 4 years.. Not decided yet...

I agree.

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p4432023.m570.l1311&_nkw=hour+meter&_sacat=0" rel="nofollow - https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p4432023.m570.l1311&_nkw=hour+meter&_sacat=0

Look closely, some of the meters will work on a 6V system.

My intervals are a bit different. When the level drops to the mark that says "ADD", I add oil. I've never seen it to the point where it says "CHANGE" so I just put a little more in till the level rises back to the "ADD" mark. Now once again in familiar territory, I then bring the level up to the "FULL" or top mark on the stick and call it good.  What a bunch of B/S right?

I've changed oil at 5K intervals on the cars and trucks with 10W-30 oil since 1976. 200hrs on anything equipment related whether gasoline, or diesel fueled. Diesel trucks 10K, or once a year in the fall just before winter cold sets in. Car currently has 306K, pickup has 256K, and old Mack truck has about 500K. Nothing uses oil.

WF owner wrote: I remember my brother-in-law bragging to an old mechanic that he changed oil in his car every 3000 miles, even though the recommended interval was much longer. The mechanic's reply was "If you want waste oil and your money, that's your business."

I work with one of those guys! He runs Mobile 1 too! I just shake my head.

Well, I'm one of those 3500 mile guys to, but I only use synthetic in one of my cars which is Jo Jo's Caddy. Her little CTS gets the oil changed every 7500, which now since she's been retired the past few years will be quite some time being she really doesn't go anywhere other than the grocery store. LOL!  And the shop Van sits other than going to the P.O. which is about 8 miles away. But with almost 200K on the shop Van, I can go out there right now pull the dipstick out and it looks like I just changed the oil. A clean engine is a happy engine boys. I do the trans every 50K, and I'm one of those Mechanic guys.... 

Steve@B&B

My pickup is a 96 Dodge 3500 with V-10 engine and automatic transmission. Never have had a transmission problem and the first 200K of the trucks life the transmission was serviced every first week of October every other year. I know few with the vintage of truck that haven't had transmission problems with the Dodge transmissions.

My engines run very clean internally also. With exception of the old mechanical diesels, and two strokers which darken quite quickly, everything runs clean. I really don't have anything that consumes oil even though high mileage. Rust always puts my stuff down once it reaches diminishing returns for me.

I would be more concerned about the straight weight 30..... Not the best if your 30 degrees or less outside... ?

.

If you find a lot of water in your trans/rear end oil then look for leaking shifter boots, 3pt draft linkage boots, and other seal leaks. Secondarily seek out condensation. Drain the water first before starting after extended sits.

Check the blackness and feel of the engine oil. Does it feel sharp or slippery? Drain some to exume the water. If it's green water then more problems.

.