This site is not affiliated with AGCO Inc., Duluth GA., Allis-Chalmers Co., Milwaukee, WI., or any surviving or related corporate entity. All trademarks remain the property of their respective owners. All information presented herein should be considered the result of an un-moderated public forum with no responsibility for its accuracy or usability assumed by the users and sponsors of this site or any corporate entity.
The Forum Parts and Services Unofficial Allis Store Tractor Shows Serial Numbers History
Forum Home Forum Home > Allis Chalmers > Farm Equipment
  New Posts New Posts
  FAQ FAQ  Forum Search   Events   Register Register  Login Login


what 226 engine is the gleaner E

 Post Reply Post Reply
Author
Message
Josh(NE) View Drop Down
Orange Level
Orange Level


Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Nebraska
Points: 510
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Josh(NE) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: what 226 engine is the gleaner E
    Posted: 07 Sep 2010 at 4:31pm
is a gleaner e the same 226 as a D-17? What all is involved in putting a combine motor in a tractor. I beleive I have seen in past posts where some parts need swapped.
Allis Express
'65 190XT, 37 B, '72 170, '83 8030, and the IH 560 was a mistake
Back to Top
Sponsored Links


Back to Top
Gary in da UP View Drop Down
Orange Level
Orange Level
Avatar

Joined: 13 Sep 2009
Location: EUP of Mi.
Points: 1885
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary in da UP Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Sep 2010 at 4:38pm
Yup, its basically a D17 engine.  The crank pully will need modifacations. search the forum, it has been dicussed.
Back to Top
Carl(NWWI) View Drop Down
Orange Level
Orange Level


Joined: 13 Sep 2009
Location: NW WI
Points: 954
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Carl(NWWI) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Sep 2010 at 7:14pm
what tractor you plan on putting it in a WD? You need a front engine cover off a WD-45 and a pully off a WD-45. Then grind about a 1/4 inch out of the frame rail for the cast by the governor. maybe a different distributor housing for putting in oil, but i put a valve cover off a WD-45 and put the oil in through the hole in the hood for the muffler
Back to Top
DanNESD View Drop Down
Silver Level
Silver Level
Avatar

Joined: 22 Oct 2009
Location: Milbank, SD
Points: 182
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DanNESD Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Sep 2010 at 10:06pm
If you are putting the endine in a wd 45 you need to swap water pumps (the mounting holes need to be drilled out).  The governor needs to be switched to a tractor style.  The distributor mount needs to be changed if you want to have the oil fill.  Carb is a little different.  Crank pully needs to be changed.  I am having problems with the crank pulley on mine.  Using the 45 pulley, the pulley does not line up with the water pump pulley.  Evidently the crank nose must be longer.  I still don't know what to do about this.
Back to Top
NCAllisnut View Drop Down
Silver Level
Silver Level
Avatar

Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Shelby NC
Points: 365
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote NCAllisnut Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Sep 2010 at 10:16pm
I had to relocate the pulley set screw hole on my WD / E Gleaner project to get the belt lined up.
 
Adam
 
Back to Top
DanNESD View Drop Down
Silver Level
Silver Level
Avatar

Joined: 22 Oct 2009
Location: Milbank, SD
Points: 182
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DanNESD Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Sep 2010 at 10:19pm
How exactly did you do that and did you have to change the front cover?
Back to Top
NCAllisnut View Drop Down
Silver Level
Silver Level
Avatar

Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Shelby NC
Points: 365
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote NCAllisnut Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Sep 2010 at 10:31pm
I did not change my front cover.  I lock-tited a bolt in the set screw hole, cut it off and ground it flush, drilled a new hole in the right place, and tapped it. 
Adam
Back to Top
DanNESD View Drop Down
Silver Level
Silver Level
Avatar

Joined: 22 Oct 2009
Location: Milbank, SD
Points: 182
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DanNESD Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Sep 2010 at 10:34pm
Thank you that ended alot of head scratching!  I was starting to go bald.
Back to Top
Lonn View Drop Down
Orange Level
Orange Level
Avatar

Joined: 16 Sep 2009
Location: Назарово,Russia
Points: 29792
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lonn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Sep 2010 at 7:13am
That an easy way to do it Adam. I just let it run out of line on Dad's WC and it's been doing fine for over 10 years but if I ever get around to wanting it lined up your way looks best.
-- --- .... .- -- -- .- -.. / .-- .- ... / .- / -- ..- .-. -.. . .-. .. -. --. / -.-. .... .. .-.. -.. / .-. .- .--. .. ... -
Wink
I am a Russian Bot
Back to Top
Josh(NE) View Drop Down
Orange Level
Orange Level


Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Nebraska
Points: 510
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Josh(NE) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Sep 2010 at 8:25am
I was looking at putting it in a D-17. I assume the front cover and governer is all that would need changed. Alond with reworking the pully as Adam has done.
Allis Express
'65 190XT, 37 B, '72 170, '83 8030, and the IH 560 was a mistake
Back to Top
CJohnS MI View Drop Down
Orange Level
Orange Level


Joined: 27 Jun 2010
Location: Lapeer MI
Points: 326
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CJohnS MI Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Sep 2010 at 8:40am
Originally posted by Josh(NE) Josh(NE) wrote:

I was looking at putting it in a D-17. I assume the front cover and governer is all that would need changed. Alond with reworking the pully as Adam has done.


The pulley issue is the single biggest thing. The E engine we have already was in WD. It has the Gleaner front cover still on it and cannot imagine what difference that would make.

The governor spring (inside the housing) has no plunger - for tractor use, it means that the throttle won't "snap closed" when you pull it down all the way.

The water pump is a must do. Completely different animals.

No oil filler on the governor housing will be a real pain in the long run, unless you run with the hood off.

But having 63 HP is nothing to sneeze at, so it's well worth it.

Back to Top
kendak View Drop Down
Bronze Level
Bronze Level
Avatar

Joined: 22 Sep 2009
Location: boyle, miss.
Points: 37
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kendak Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Sep 2010 at 8:27pm
easy way is to move pulley to the right place , center punch through pulley hole & drill shallow hole in crank...use orginal tapered end bolt...done deal
Back to Top
Carl(NWWI) View Drop Down
Orange Level
Orange Level


Joined: 13 Sep 2009
Location: NW WI
Points: 954
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Carl(NWWI) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Sep 2010 at 8:28pm
on my WD I put a thick washer on the inside of the pully on the water pump, had a buddy of mine machine it down to fit
Back to Top
DrAllis View Drop Down
Orange Level Access
Orange Level Access


Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Points: 20977
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Sep 2010 at 8:44pm
You cannot switch timing covers as-is!! the newer D17engine uses 1/2" bolts at the bottom and the WD uses 3/8" bolts. I did drill one out (WD cover)to 1/2" bolts one time and got away with it in a puller engine.
Back to Top
CJohnS MI View Drop Down
Orange Level
Orange Level


Joined: 27 Jun 2010
Location: Lapeer MI
Points: 326
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CJohnS MI Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Sep 2010 at 8:45pm
Originally posted by Carl(NWWI) Carl(NWWI) wrote:

on my WD I put a thick washer on the inside of the pully on the water pump, had a buddy of mine machine it down to fit


That seems a real doable deal. Looking at the one we have, the crank pulley appears "bottomed", and would need boring out to get it to go any further back.


Back to Top
DrAllis View Drop Down
Orange Level Access
Orange Level Access


Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Points: 20977
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Sep 2010 at 9:17pm
Some of the pulleys are already "bored" thru and some aren't.
Back to Top
CJohnS MI View Drop Down
Orange Level
Orange Level


Joined: 27 Jun 2010
Location: Lapeer MI
Points: 326
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CJohnS MI Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Sep 2010 at 9:35pm
Originally posted by DrAllis DrAllis wrote:

Some of the pulleys are already "bored" thru and some aren't.


Thanks DrAllis & Kendak. I think I'll pull our pulley and have one of the guys finish boring it through then make a new recess for the set screw. The only question is whether we have a lathe small enough & currently have a toolpost on it.

I like the "thick washer behind the pump pulley" idea a lot too.





Back to Top
 Post Reply Post Reply
  Share Topic   

Forum Jump Forum Permissions View Drop Down

Forum Software by Web Wiz Forums® version 11.10
Copyright ©2001-2017 Web Wiz Ltd.

This page was generated in 0.047 seconds.


Help Support the
Unofficial Allis Forum