what 226 engine is the gleaner E
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Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
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URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=17863
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Topic: what 226 engine is the gleaner E
Posted By: Josh(NE)
Subject: what 226 engine is the gleaner E
Date Posted: 07 Sep 2010 at 4:31pm
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is a gleaner e the same 226 as a D-17? What all is involved in putting a combine motor in a tractor. I beleive I have seen in past posts where some parts need swapped. ------------- Allis Express '65 190XT, 37 B, '72 170, '83 8030, and the IH 560 was a mistake |
Replies:
Posted By: Gary in da UP
Date Posted: 07 Sep 2010 at 4:38pm
| Yup, its basically a D17 engine. The crank pully will need modifacations. search the forum, it has been dicussed. |
Posted By: Carl(NWWI)
Date Posted: 07 Sep 2010 at 7:14pm
| what tractor you plan on putting it in a WD? You need a front engine cover off a WD-45 and a pully off a WD-45. Then grind about a 1/4 inch out of the frame rail for the cast by the governor. maybe a different distributor housing for putting in oil, but i put a valve cover off a WD-45 and put the oil in through the hole in the hood for the muffler |
Posted By: DanNESD
Date Posted: 07 Sep 2010 at 10:06pm
| If you are putting the endine in a wd 45 you need to swap water pumps (the mounting holes need to be drilled out). The governor needs to be switched to a tractor style. The distributor mount needs to be changed if you want to have the oil fill. Carb is a little different. Crank pully needs to be changed. I am having problems with the crank pulley on mine. Using the 45 pulley, the pulley does not line up with the water pump pulley. Evidently the crank nose must be longer. I still don't know what to do about this. |
Posted By: NCAllisnut
Date Posted: 07 Sep 2010 at 10:16pm
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I had to relocate the pulley set screw hole on my WD / E Gleaner project to get the belt lined up.
Adam
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Posted By: DanNESD
Date Posted: 07 Sep 2010 at 10:19pm
| How exactly did you do that and did you have to change the front cover? |
Posted By: NCAllisnut
Date Posted: 07 Sep 2010 at 10:31pm
| I did not change my front cover. I lock-tited a bolt in the set screw hole, cut it off and ground it flush, drilled a new hole in the right place, and tapped it. Adam |
Posted By: DanNESD
Date Posted: 07 Sep 2010 at 10:34pm
| Thank you that ended alot of head scratching! I was starting to go bald. |
Posted By: Lonn
Date Posted: 08 Sep 2010 at 7:13am
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That an easy way to do it Adam. I just let it run out of line on Dad's WC and it's been doing fine for over 10 years but if I ever get around to wanting it lined up your way looks best. ------------- -- --- .... .- -- -- .- -.. / .-- .- ... / .- / -- ..- .-. -.. . .-. .. -. --. / -.-. .... .. .-.. -.. / .-. .- .--. .. ... - Wink I am a Russian Bot |
Posted By: Josh(NE)
Date Posted: 08 Sep 2010 at 8:25am
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I was looking at putting it in a D-17. I assume the front cover and governer is all that would need changed. Alond with reworking the pully as Adam has done. ------------- Allis Express '65 190XT, 37 B, '72 170, '83 8030, and the IH 560 was a mistake |
Posted By: CJohnS MI
Date Posted: 08 Sep 2010 at 8:40am
The pulley issue is the single biggest thing. The E engine we have already was in WD. It has the Gleaner front cover still on it and cannot imagine what difference that would make. The governor spring (inside the housing) has no plunger - for tractor use, it means that the throttle won't "snap closed" when you pull it down all the way. The water pump is a must do. Completely different animals. No oil filler on the governor housing will be a real pain in the long run, unless you run with the hood off. But having 63 HP is nothing to sneeze at, so it's well worth it. |
Josh(NE) wrote:Posted By: kendak
Date Posted: 08 Sep 2010 at 8:27pm
| easy way is to move pulley to the right place , center punch through pulley hole & drill shallow hole in crank...use orginal tapered end bolt...done deal |
Posted By: Carl(NWWI)
Date Posted: 08 Sep 2010 at 8:28pm
| on my WD I put a thick washer on the inside of the pully on the water pump, had a buddy of mine machine it down to fit |
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 08 Sep 2010 at 8:44pm
| You cannot switch timing covers as-is!! the newer D17engine uses 1/2" bolts at the bottom and the WD uses 3/8" bolts. I did drill one out (WD cover)to 1/2" bolts one time and got away with it in a puller engine. |
Posted By: CJohnS MI
Date Posted: 08 Sep 2010 at 8:45pm
That seems a real doable deal. Looking at the one we have, the crank pulley appears "bottomed", and would need boring out to get it to go any further back. |
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 08 Sep 2010 at 9:17pm
| Some of the pulleys are already "bored" thru and some aren't. |
Posted By: CJohnS MI
Date Posted: 08 Sep 2010 at 9:35pm
Thanks DrAllis & Kendak. I think I'll pull our pulley and have one of the guys finish boring it through then make a new recess for the set screw. The only question is whether we have a lathe small enough & currently have a toolpost on it. I like the "thick washer behind the pump pulley" idea a lot too. |