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Tom Feldpausch 
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Location: Hastings, MI
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 Topic: advice on splitting a 6080
Posted: 01 Jan 2019 at 6:21pm |
Hello, and happy New Year
everyone!
Our open station 6070 has a clutch issue. What advice can you give us before we
split it? We have everything disconnected according to the service manual. We
don't have any of the special Allis stands as shown in the manual, so plan to
use a pallet jack with blocks to hold the front end up. Not sure if this gives
the engine proper support at the rear, though.
Also, what's best to hold up the transmission end of things...wood timbers with
a bottle jack for adjustment?
Are there any photos of
this process on this website, or can anyone share any?
Thanks in advance,
Tom
Edited by Tom Feldpausch - 01 Jan 2019 at 6:23pm
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wekracer
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Posted: 01 Jan 2019 at 6:28pm |
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We used a floor jack under the transmission as well as jack stands for safety.
Remove front weights as they make the front end heavy. Drive a couple wedges cut from a 2x4 between the front axle and frame. Unbolt the front engine mounts and frame rails and roll front end out the front. 2 guys can handle it pretty easily.
Pull engine with a cherry picker.
It’s really not a bad job.
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Tom Feldpausch
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Posted: 01 Jan 2019 at 6:39pm |
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Thanks, Derek. That's helpful.
We have the wedges driven in to keep the front end upright.
When you unbolt the frame rails to roll the front forward, is there extra support you have to give to the rear of the engine? We noticed the special Allis stand had a center u-bracket that looked to be there to support the rear of the engine.
Also, do you remember on the rear end where you supported it (at what locations)? We don't want to damage anything back there. (This might be a hard question to answer in an email).
Did you re-build your engine when you split it? Who did the work and how did it turn out?
Thanks again...
Tom
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bradley6874
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Posted: 01 Jan 2019 at 6:55pm |
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Get a line up tool and be very gentle rolling back together it's very easy to mess up clutch
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You can wash the dirt off the body but you can’t wash the farmer out of the heart and soul
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Tom Feldpausch
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Posted: 01 Jan 2019 at 7:06pm |
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Richard, what is a line-up tool?
TIA,
Tom
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AC720Man
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Posted: 01 Jan 2019 at 8:38pm |
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When we split dads 6060, we used basement support jacks on each side with a metal brace bolted at an angle to the frame rail. The basement jack allowed for very precise adjustment up or down. The alignment tool is required to line up both clutches when you put the tractor back together. As said above, be careful putting the tractor back together, do not use force. The main clutch and and pto clutch have to align correctly in order for the 2 halves to come together. We used a floor jack on top of cribbing under the transmission to support it. It was a harder job than I anticipated. Aligning the 2 halves was difficult. I would recommend Rick to rebuild your clutches. He does a great job and is very reasonable.
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1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
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wekracer
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Posted: 01 Jan 2019 at 8:41pm |
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It’s been probably 10 years ago so my memory is a little fuzzy. I believe we just had a jack stand on the bell housing portion of the transmission with the engine hanging on the top bolts. Our clutch was slipping so it got a new clutch from Rick Corder if I’m not mistaken. It went very smoothly as I recall. Good luck
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Tom Feldpausch
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Posted: 02 Jan 2019 at 5:43am |
Thanks everyone for the input.
1. Can you do this job without the clutch alignment tool, or can/should we purchase one from Agco?
2. Does anyone have either of the special A-C stands mentioned in the service manual (ACTP 3014-1 Engine Splitting Stand or 3014-3 Splitting Stand) that they could give me some dimensions off of for fabrication purposes, if we decide to go that way?
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Charlie175
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Posted: 02 Jan 2019 at 5:53am |
Next stand I build will use the Sidewind Support jacks with wheels. Would be easy to adjust for height plus the ability to roll.
Rob I forgot, did we need to have the PTO engaged or not when pulled apart to keep is from falling into the tranny?
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Charlie
'48 B, '51 CA, '56 WD45 '61 D17, '63 D12, '65 D10 , '68 One-Ninety XTD
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jaybmiller
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Posted: 02 Jan 2019 at 6:41am |
re: clutch alignment tool it's used to center all the guts before tightening stuff down...
these days one's included with a 'clutch kit' cause my mehanic tossed all his out BEFORE I could snag them.... I used a wooden dowel(aka broom handle) turned down a tad. That was in 2006-7(?) and Troy is still happy to work ! as for 'splitting and 'reassembly', IF you have an overhead I-beam and 2 trolleys the job is easy. A trolley on each section allows perfect height adjustment. As the tractor is dead centered under the I-beam, everything lines up nice. I used 2 longer bolts(3 and 9 oclock) to guide the tractor together onto the 'dowel's, tightening a bit, each side and it pulled it together smoothly.
please use SOLID wooden blocks for support NO cinder blocks !! Jay
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DrAllis
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Posted: 02 Jan 2019 at 7:26am |
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Get yourself two long bolts to replace the lower side frame bolts and cut off their hex heads. These will absolutely support the rear of the engine and then gives you alignment dowels when you go back together.
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Hurst
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Posted: 02 Jan 2019 at 7:37am |
If it is possible on a 6080, another thing you can do to support the rear half is the put a bolt in backwards on each side (thread it back into the hole until it sticks through the plate). If that doesn't work, Doc's way is probably the only way, and knowing Doc, he would have suggested what I am suggesting if possible on a 6080, as I think he may be the one that gave me that suggestion on my 7000 when splitting it. You don't want to try to hold that engine up by just the front plate.
Hurst
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Tom Feldpausch
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Posted: 02 Jan 2019 at 9:06am |
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DrAllis,
Is it possible to put the bolts in backwards, as Hurst is suggesting?
Thanks!
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DrAllis
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Posted: 02 Jan 2019 at 10:48am |
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Maybe to support the weight of the engine, but I doubt they will do any good as a dowel to help roll it back together. You need 4 inches or more of a dowel to make it as easy as possible.
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Acdiesel
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Posted: 02 Jan 2019 at 11:06am |
have one in the shop now (6060), just made two legs out of 1.5"x 1.5" angle and mounted to the platform bolt holes, made legs before spiting tractor (no jacking or leveling needed for reassembly). This ones getting the engine rebuilt. 9300 hours on original engine. Dan
Edited by Acdiesel - 02 Jan 2019 at 11:07am
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bradley6874
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Posted: 02 Jan 2019 at 11:41am |
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The clutch is a double set up my friend has a input shaft from a rear but he won't lend it out when I need it he brings it over we put it together and he takes it back home Rick on here rebuilds those clutch assy he may have one
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You can wash the dirt off the body but you can’t wash the farmer out of the heart and soul
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Rick
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Posted: 02 Jan 2019 at 12:50pm |
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No, sir...I do not have one here, sorry. Rick
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Tom Feldpausch
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Posted: 02 Jan 2019 at 3:18pm |
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Dan,
How are you supporting the rear of the engine, in the front half of the tractor?
Are you doing your own engine rebuild? If not, what are a guy's options and which is the best value, in your opinion?
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DougG
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Posted: 02 Jan 2019 at 6:17pm |
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Tha clutch fits pretty tight in the flywheel you can snug the pressure plate bolts and mostly eye ball it centering the clutch discs to the the pilot bearing and splines , or you can buy a cheap alignment tool at any auto parts stores
Edited by DougG - 02 Jan 2019 at 6:25pm
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Acdiesel
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Posted: 02 Jan 2019 at 6:36pm |
rolled engine and front of frame froward with an A-frame, ran the strap under the engine. there's no weight to the frame rails, the engines the heavy part.
removed the clutch,flywheel and adapter plate and then bolted the engine to the stand, then removed the front engine mounting bolts, rolled the frame froward by hand, rolled the engine off to the side and walked the front back to the back and stuck a bolt back in.
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D19 Diesel,D17 Diesel SER.3
2-D14, 2-D15 SER.II WF/NF
D15 SER.2 DIESEL
D12 SER.I, D10 Ser.II
2-720'S D21 Ser. II
Gmc,caterpillar
I'm a pharmacist (farm assist) with a PHD (post hole digger)
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oldways
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Posted: 02 Jan 2019 at 6:52pm |
 [IMG] 
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1 Corinthians 1:18 1969-190xt-III. 1966 190xt gas. 1966 190xt Cab. 1948-G. 1937-WC unstyled. 1950-B. 1951-CA. 1966-D17-IV
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oldways
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Posted: 02 Jan 2019 at 6:54pm |
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I've split my 190, WC and B with these Jack's I put together. Works really well.
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1 Corinthians 1:18 1969-190xt-III. 1966 190xt gas. 1966 190xt Cab. 1948-G. 1937-WC unstyled. 1950-B. 1951-CA. 1966-D17-IV
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Tom Feldpausch
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Posted: 03 Jan 2019 at 8:28pm |
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Thanks, Lee. Is there a reason you only put a wheel on one side of the stand?
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Tom Feldpausch
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Posted: 03 Jan 2019 at 8:35pm |
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Does the hydraulic suction line (shown in Acdiesel's top photo) get in the way when you go to separate the tractor? It seems like the engine plate is going to hit it.
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AC720Man
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Posted: 03 Jan 2019 at 9:46pm |
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The pto disengage handle Charlie is referring to stays in the forward position during the entire process. This prevents the pto coupler from falling into the trans during the split. If that happens, the only way to retrieve it is thru the hand brake access on the side of the transmission, according to the Agco shop manual.
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1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
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Lynn Marshall
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Posted: 04 Jan 2019 at 11:32am |
This A frame hoist is what I use.  
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oldways
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Posted: 04 Jan 2019 at 3:33pm |
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Tom there are wheels on both Jack's of that's what you are asking. The picture looks like only one side. The rear section of the tractor I just block up and roll the front end away. The Jack's make it real handy for adjusting side to side and front to back.
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1 Corinthians 1:18 1969-190xt-III. 1966 190xt gas. 1966 190xt Cab. 1948-G. 1937-WC unstyled. 1950-B. 1951-CA. 1966-D17-IV
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wfmurray
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Posted: 04 Jan 2019 at 5:10pm |
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Split a B .Put wedges under engine and blocked up rear of engine.Put pto in gear and put visergrips on pto and cranked it back.Had overhead hoist holding front part of rear half.
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Tom Feldpausch
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Posted: 08 Jan 2019 at 3:19pm |
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DrAllis, are the cut off heads to the front or rear of the tractor? Am I cutting the heads off to clear something? Sorry, not following...
Edited by Tom Feldpausch - 09 Jan 2019 at 8:11pm
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DrAllis
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Posted: 08 Jan 2019 at 3:49pm |
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There are four big bolts that connect the side frames to the bell housing. When you are splitting the tractor, remove the two lower bolts and replace them with LONGER bolts that have the heads cut off. These will support the rear of the engine when split and help you align the tractor halves when rolling it back together. These headless dowel bolts should be 4 inches longer than the bolts you remove.
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