advice on splitting a 6080
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Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
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URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=156872
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Topic: advice on splitting a 6080
Posted By: Tom Feldpausch
Subject: advice on splitting a 6080
Date Posted: 01 Jan 2019 at 6:21pm
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Hello, and happy New Year
everyone!
Are there any photos of this process on this website, or can anyone share any?
Thanks in advance,
Tom |
Replies:
Posted By: wekracer
Date Posted: 01 Jan 2019 at 6:28pm
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We used a floor jack under the transmission as well as jack stands for safety. Remove front weights as they make the front end heavy. Drive a couple wedges cut from a 2x4 between the front axle and frame. Unbolt the front engine mounts and frame rails and roll front end out the front. 2 guys can handle it pretty easily. Pull engine with a cherry picker. It’s really not a bad job. |
Posted By: Tom Feldpausch
Date Posted: 01 Jan 2019 at 6:39pm
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Thanks, Derek. That's helpful. We have the wedges driven in to keep the front end upright. When you unbolt the frame rails to roll the front forward, is there extra support you have to give to the rear of the engine? We noticed the special Allis stand had a center u-bracket that looked to be there to support the rear of the engine. Also, do you remember on the rear end where you supported it (at what locations)? We don't want to damage anything back there. (This might be a hard question to answer in an email). Did you re-build your engine when you split it? Who did the work and how did it turn out? Thanks again... Tom |
Posted By: bradley6874
Date Posted: 01 Jan 2019 at 6:55pm
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Get a line up tool and be very gentle rolling back together it's very easy to mess up clutch ------------- You can wash the dirt off the body but you can’t wash the farmer out of the heart and soul |
Posted By: Tom Feldpausch
Date Posted: 01 Jan 2019 at 7:06pm
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Richard, what is a line-up tool? TIA, Tom |
Posted By: AC720Man
Date Posted: 01 Jan 2019 at 8:38pm
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When we split dads 6060, we used basement support jacks on each side with a metal brace bolted at an angle to the frame rail. The basement jack allowed for very precise adjustment up or down. The alignment tool is required to line up both clutches when you put the tractor back together. As said above, be careful putting the tractor back together, do not use force. The main clutch and and pto clutch have to align correctly in order for the 2 halves to come together. We used a floor jack on top of cribbing under the transmission to support it. It was a harder job than I anticipated. Aligning the 2 halves was difficult. I would recommend Rick to rebuild your clutches. He does a great job and is very reasonable. ------------- 1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD |
Posted By: wekracer
Date Posted: 01 Jan 2019 at 8:41pm
| It’s been probably 10 years ago so my memory is a little fuzzy. I believe we just had a jack stand on the bell housing portion of the transmission with the engine hanging on the top bolts. Our clutch was slipping so it got a new clutch from Rick Corder if I’m not mistaken. It went very smoothly as I recall. Good luck |
Posted By: Tom Feldpausch
Date Posted: 02 Jan 2019 at 5:43am
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Thanks everyone for the input. 1. Can you do this job without the clutch alignment tool, or can/should we purchase one from Agco? 2. Does anyone have either of the special A-C stands mentioned in the service manual (ACTP 3014-1 Engine Splitting Stand or 3014-3 Splitting Stand) that they could give me some dimensions off of for fabrication purposes, if we decide to go that way?
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Posted By: Charlie175
Date Posted: 02 Jan 2019 at 5:53am
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Next stand I build will use the Sidewind Support jacks with wheels. Would be easy to adjust for height plus the ability to roll. Rob I forgot, did we need to have the PTO engaged or not when pulled apart to keep is from falling into the tranny? ------------- Charlie '48 B, '51 CA, '56 WD45 '61 D17, '63 D12, '65 D10 , '68 One-Ninety XTD |
Posted By: jaybmiller
Date Posted: 02 Jan 2019 at 6:41am
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re: clutch alignment tool it's used to center all the guts before tightening stuff down... these days one's included with a 'clutch kit' cause my mehanic tossed all his out BEFORE I could snag them.... I used a wooden dowel(aka broom handle) turned down a tad. That was in 2006-7(?) and Troy is still happy to work ! as for 'splitting and 'reassembly', IF you have an overhead I-beam and 2 trolleys the job is easy. A trolley on each section allows perfect height adjustment. As the tractor is dead centered under the I-beam, everything lines up nice. I used 2 longer bolts(3 and 9 oclock) to guide the tractor together onto the 'dowel's, tightening a bit, each side and it pulled it together smoothly. please use SOLID wooden blocks for support NO cinder blocks !! Jay ------------- 3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112 Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor) Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water |
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 02 Jan 2019 at 7:26am
| Get yourself two long bolts to replace the lower side frame bolts and cut off their hex heads. These will absolutely support the rear of the engine and then gives you alignment dowels when you go back together. |
Posted By: Hurst
Date Posted: 02 Jan 2019 at 7:37am
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If it is possible on a 6080, another thing you can do to support the rear half is the put a bolt in backwards on each side (thread it back into the hole until it sticks through the plate). If that doesn't work, Doc's way is probably the only way, and knowing Doc, he would have suggested what I am suggesting if possible on a 6080, as I think he may be the one that gave me that suggestion on my 7000 when splitting it. You don't want to try to hold that engine up by just the front plate. Hurst ------------- 1979 Allis Chalmers 7000 5800 Hours |
Posted By: Tom Feldpausch
Date Posted: 02 Jan 2019 at 9:06am
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DrAllis, Is it possible to put the bolts in backwards, as Hurst is suggesting? Thanks! |
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 02 Jan 2019 at 10:48am
| Maybe to support the weight of the engine, but I doubt they will do any good as a dowel to help roll it back together. You need 4 inches or more of a dowel to make it as easy as possible. |
Posted By: Acdiesel
Date Posted: 02 Jan 2019 at 11:06am
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have one in the shop now (6060), just made two legs out of 1.5"x 1.5" angle and mounted to the platform bolt holes, made legs before spiting tractor (no jacking or leveling needed for reassembly). This ones getting the engine rebuilt. 9300 hours on original engine. Dan   ------------- D19 Diesel,D17 Diesel SER.3 2-D14, 2-D15 SER.II WF/NF D15 SER.2 DIESEL D12 SER.I, D10 Ser.II 2-720'S D21 Ser. II Gmc,caterpillar I'm a pharmacist (farm assist) with a PHD (post hole digger) |
Posted By: bradley6874
Date Posted: 02 Jan 2019 at 11:41am
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The clutch is a double set up my friend has a input shaft from a rear but he won't lend it out when I need it he brings it over we put it together and he takes it back home Rick on here rebuilds those clutch assy he may have one ------------- You can wash the dirt off the body but you can’t wash the farmer out of the heart and soul |
Posted By: Rick
Date Posted: 02 Jan 2019 at 12:50pm
| No, sir...I do not have one here, sorry. Rick |
Posted By: Tom Feldpausch
Date Posted: 02 Jan 2019 at 3:18pm
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Dan, How are you supporting the rear of the engine, in the front half of the tractor? Are you doing your own engine rebuild? If not, what are a guy's options and which is the best value, in your opinion? |
Posted By: DougG
Date Posted: 02 Jan 2019 at 6:17pm
| Tha clutch fits pretty tight in the flywheel you can snug the pressure plate bolts and mostly eye ball it centering the clutch discs to the the pilot bearing and splines , or you can buy a cheap alignment tool at any auto parts stores |
Posted By: Acdiesel
Date Posted: 02 Jan 2019 at 6:36pm
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rolled engine and front of frame froward with an A-frame, ran the strap under the engine. there's no weight to the frame rails, the engines the heavy part. removed the clutch,flywheel and adapter plate and then bolted the engine to the stand, then removed the front engine mounting bolts, rolled the frame froward by hand, rolled the engine off to the side and walked the front back to the back and stuck a bolt back in. ------------- D19 Diesel,D17 Diesel SER.3 2-D14, 2-D15 SER.II WF/NF D15 SER.2 DIESEL D12 SER.I, D10 Ser.II 2-720'S D21 Ser. II Gmc,caterpillar I'm a pharmacist (farm assist) with a PHD (post hole digger) |
Posted By: oldways
Date Posted: 02 Jan 2019 at 6:52pm
 [IMG] ------------- 1 Corinthians 1:18 1969-190xt-III. 1966 190xt gas. 1966 190xt Cab. 1948-G. 1937-WC unstyled. 1950-B. 1951-CA. 1966-D17-IV |
Posted By: oldways
Date Posted: 02 Jan 2019 at 6:54pm
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I've split my 190, WC and B with these Jack's I put together. Works really well. ------------- 1 Corinthians 1:18 1969-190xt-III. 1966 190xt gas. 1966 190xt Cab. 1948-G. 1937-WC unstyled. 1950-B. 1951-CA. 1966-D17-IV |
Posted By: Tom Feldpausch
Date Posted: 03 Jan 2019 at 8:28pm
| Thanks, Lee. Is there a reason you only put a wheel on one side of the stand? |
Posted By: Tom Feldpausch
Date Posted: 03 Jan 2019 at 8:35pm
| Does the hydraulic suction line (shown in Acdiesel's top photo) get in the way when you go to separate the tractor? It seems like the engine plate is going to hit it. |
Posted By: AC720Man
Date Posted: 03 Jan 2019 at 9:46pm
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The pto disengage handle Charlie is referring to stays in the forward position during the entire process. This prevents the pto coupler from falling into the trans during the split. If that happens, the only way to retrieve it is thru the hand brake access on the side of the transmission, according to the Agco shop manual. ------------- 1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD |
Posted By: Lynn Marshall
Date Posted: 04 Jan 2019 at 11:32am
This A frame hoist is what I use. 
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Posted By: oldways
Date Posted: 04 Jan 2019 at 3:33pm
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Tom there are wheels on both Jack's of that's what you are asking. The picture looks like only one side. The rear section of the tractor I just block up and roll the front end away. The Jack's make it real handy for adjusting side to side and front to back. ------------- 1 Corinthians 1:18 1969-190xt-III. 1966 190xt gas. 1966 190xt Cab. 1948-G. 1937-WC unstyled. 1950-B. 1951-CA. 1966-D17-IV |
Posted By: wfmurray
Date Posted: 04 Jan 2019 at 5:10pm
| Split a B .Put wedges under engine and blocked up rear of engine.Put pto in gear and put visergrips on pto and cranked it back.Had overhead hoist holding front part of rear half. |
Posted By: Tom Feldpausch
Date Posted: 08 Jan 2019 at 3:19pm
| DrAllis, are the cut off heads to the front or rear of the tractor? Am I cutting the heads off to clear something? Sorry, not following... |
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 08 Jan 2019 at 3:49pm
| There are four big bolts that connect the side frames to the bell housing. When you are splitting the tractor, remove the two lower bolts and replace them with LONGER bolts that have the heads cut off. These will support the rear of the engine when split and help you align the tractor halves when rolling it back together. These headless dowel bolts should be 4 inches longer than the bolts you remove. |
Posted By: Tom Feldpausch
Date Posted: 09 Jan 2019 at 7:58pm
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DrAllis (Dan), I think I've got it now. Once the two tractor halves are realigned, then do you spin the headless bolts/pins out to the rear, and replace with original bolts? Just want to make sure I have it. Thanks! TF
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Posted By: Lynn Marshall
Date Posted: 09 Jan 2019 at 9:30pm
| Yes, that's what you want to do. Those are metric bolts by the way. |
Posted By: H Clark
Date Posted: 09 Jan 2019 at 9:37pm
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I would take a grinder with a cutoff wheel and cut a slot in the end of the bolt/ line up pin after you cut the head off so you can use a screwdriver to back them out. ------------- 1960 D-12,1948 WC, 1973 160, 1977 175, 1984 6060 |
Posted By: Tom Feldpausch
Date Posted: 17 Jan 2019 at 7:43am
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Hi Walter, What did you put the ViseGrips on the PTO for? |
Posted By: Tom Feldpausch
Date Posted: 17 Jan 2019 at 7:46am
| Great idea, Holly. We milled a hex on the cut off bolt ends on ours for a 17 mm socket. We'll see how that works. |
Posted By: wfmurray
Date Posted: 18 Jan 2019 at 6:36pm
| Put visegrips on pto to turn it .With pto and gears engaged and clutch released you can turn pto and roll tractor .Mechanical engaged pto. |