ISO 12v starter for AC WD45

Hey all,

My starter is going out on my 1957 AC WD45. It's been converted to a 12v system but I believe the starter may still be 6v. It's gone out recently and I have to knock it in order to start it. Any ideas where I can find a reasonable 12v start for this beast? Thanks.

I see what your saying and wanting to convert it all too 12. But id take it to a reliable starter repair guy and see if they can convert or just rebuild the it to 6 volt and it should last

Brian,

Welcome! And we need pictures !:)

Regards,

Chris

D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.

I'll get pictures uploaded as soon as I can. The starter still works but I have to tap on it to get it to turn over. Could I just rebuild it as a 6v? Or is there a kit to make it a 12v?

I have used 6v starters when changing to 12v on all brands from 1967. turns better and starter lasts longer . I do that on all the puller engines i build wc wd wd45 . if you have old spring type drive change to closed type

each to their own.my 45 has been on 12V since 1981.Pulled starter a few yrs ago figuring brushes would b cooked. ...nope

any starter repair shop .has 10 tooth and a rubber drive at back of unit to replace the spring . I have used them for years

My CA has been 12v for at least 20 years. It finally quit starting, but it wasn't a melted wire/armature/brush wear problem. Two of the springs that push the brush against the commutator broke. The brushes were worn so I got a brush/spring kit and decided to get 12v fields for it.

"Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford

My D14 starter used to grind almost every time I tried to start it when I went to 12v. I finally took it to a local shop here and he converted it to a 12v starter. Engages right every time and starts it right up in one or two turnovers every time unless I forget to turn on the gas!!

D14, D17, 5020, 612H, CASE 446

Sounds like it needs to be cleaned and new brushes installed.

When you apply 12V's through 6V field coils, it tends to make the Starter motor violent. This can lead to cracked nose cones, damaged ring gears or broken drives. Converting a 6V Starter to 12V's with a 12V Battery on board, makes the Starter last twice over, has a nice smooth engagement, and getting rid of the mechanical switch and moving to a Starter relay and key crank start Ignition switch brings that 40's Tractor into the 80's along with a loooong service life. Lottsa' pluses.... HTH

Steve@B&B

39'RC, 43'WC, 48'B, 49'G, 50'WF, 65 Big 10, 67'B-110, 75'716H, 2-620's, & a Motorhead wife

I don't offer a kit myself. I rebuild the whole unit including rewinding the Armature. Be careful of "kits" for Starters and Generators and such. In most cases, you don't get the correct parts! When you tear down a unit like I do, and go through top to bottom, there's no room for error. Take out old worn parts, and install top quality parts and mate all components and there is no problems and long service life. On 12V Starter conversions I loose the mechanical switch and install a HD relay. Install a nice HD key crank start ignition switch and its a done deal....

Steve@B&B

39'RC, 43'WC, 48'B, 49'G, 50'WF, 65 Big 10, 67'B-110, 75'716H, 2-620's, & a Motorhead wife

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