D17 S1 split at torque housing (Power Director)

D17 S1 split at torque housing (Power Director

Bought and used my tractor for the first time last summer. Did about 25 hours of brush hogging over the summer and the D17 did great I thought. One thing I wanted to look into over the winter (just now getting to it) was that I really had to slam the PD (power director) lever forward to get it to engage in high range. (it would always stay in high once there) No trouble in low range.

I do have the shop and operators manual so that is a good start but have never worked on a tractor before...

So, I now have the tractor split apart in my 2 car garage and have taken some measurements and noticed some things.

1. measurement of (B in the pic) - (between pre-load plate and pressure plate) average difference between engaged and disengaged was:
FRONT (low range)- .010 (supposed to be between .042 and .046)
REAR (high range)- .028 (supposed to be between .042 and .046)

2. I then loosened the bolts (#4 in the pic) and carefully took out each set of shims and cleaned and wrote down the size of each one before putting them back in the precise order and this is how things stack up..
REAR shims- (3x .012) = .036
MIDDLE shims- (6x .012 + 3x .010) = .102
FRONT shims- (2x .012 + 1x .010) = .034
For a total of .172
Per the manual the total measurement of shims should be .205 so I am short .033

I think my plan should be to add shims to the MIDDLE shims to get the total thickness to .205 and then take my engaged/disengaged measurements again...

Am I on the right track here?

Also, one thing I noticed that seems a little sloppy is the collar assy goes back and forth aprox 3/32" (pic below at the furthest point, then goes forward and touches (to push) the shifter.

This tractor sat for 7 years without moving before I bought it so I guess the PD was out of the oil and rusted the top 1/4.. should I do anything here besides wire brush carefully?

Thanks,

Wouldn't that be true Mack if it was popping out of high range? It sounds like it stays in high range but is just very hard to push the lever into high range.

Myself I think you are on the right track in getting the correct shims in first and then go from there. I'm no expert though and it's been a very long time since I've been into these. I'd also take a look at what Mack said since you are there and I'm probably not seeing what Mack is getting at.

Guess I didn't under stand post. Check stop bolt for hi side. Lever may be hitting it before it is engaged. I would still check over center plates.       MACK

Is the power director hard to take apart and put back together to get a look at the wear on the preload plates and rollers? Looks like the whole thing is put together with snap rings...

Ok, now knowing I have .015 shims instead of .012 shims my shim totals are up to spec (thickness wise)
REAR shims- (3x .015) = .045
MIDDLE shims- (6x .015 + 3x .010 (one of the .010 is a short outer shim) = .120
FRONT shims- (2x .015 + 1x .010) = .040
For a total of .205

So, I remeasured my engaged and disengaged measurements and see I have compression of:
Rear: .034 (spec .042-.046) need to take out .010 and add to center
Front: .010 (spec .042-.046) need to take out .034 and add to center

So if I take out the above I will have:
Rear shims- .030
Middle shims- .165
Front shims- .010

Having only .010 shim left on the Front (low range) makes me think the clutch discs are probably about worn out right?

Rollers and ears looked in pretty good shape, nothing broken and no serious flat spots I could see.