D17 S1 split at torque housing (Power Director)
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=137111
Printed Date: 17 Jan 2025 at 11:38pm
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Topic: D17 S1 split at torque housing (Power Director)
Posted By: ACthunder
Subject: D17 S1 split at torque housing (Power Director)
Date Posted: 06 Apr 2017 at 11:12pm
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D17 S1 split at torque housing (Power Director Bought and used my tractor for the first time last summer. Did about 25 hours of brush hogging over the summer and the D17 did great I thought. One thing I wanted to look into over the winter (just now getting to it) was that I really had to slam the PD (power director) lever forward to get it to engage in high range. (it would always stay in high once there) No trouble in low range. I do have the shop and operators manual so that is a good start but have never worked on a tractor before... So, I now have the tractor split apart in my 2 car garage and have taken some measurements and noticed some things. 1. measurement of (B in the pic) - (between pre-load plate and pressure plate) average difference between engaged and disengaged was: FRONT (low range)- .010 (supposed to be between .042 and .046) REAR (high range)- .028 (supposed to be between .042 and .046) 2. I then loosened the bolts (#4 in the pic) and carefully took out each set of shims and cleaned and wrote down the size of each one before putting them back in the precise order and this is how things stack up.. REAR shims- (3x .012) = .036 MIDDLE shims- (6x .012 + 3x .010) = .102 FRONT shims- (2x .012 + 1x .010) = .034 For a total of .172 Per the manual the total measurement of shims should be .205 so I am short .033 I think my plan should be to add shims to the MIDDLE shims to get the total thickness to .205 and then take my engaged/disengaged measurements again... Am I on the right track here? Also, one thing I noticed that seems a little sloppy is the collar assy goes back and forth aprox 3/32" (pic below at the furthest point, then goes forward and touches (to push) the shifter. This tractor sat for 7 years without moving before I bought it so I guess the PD was out of the oil and rusted the top 1/4.. should I do anything here besides wire brush carefully? Thanks,     
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Replies:
Posted By: MACK
Date Posted: 07 Apr 2017 at 6:09am
| Adjusting shim won't help your problem. Replace the two plates where the rollers go into the three detects. Also check rollers for flat spots or broken ears on rollers. MACK |
Posted By: Lonn
Date Posted: 07 Apr 2017 at 6:44am
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Wouldn't that be true Mack if it was popping out of high range? It sounds like it stays in high range but is just very hard to push the lever into high range. Myself I think you are on the right track in getting the correct shims in first and then go from there. I'm no expert though and it's been a very long time since I've been into these. I'd also take a look at what Mack said since you are there and I'm probably not seeing what Mack is getting at. ------------- -- --- .... .- -- -- .- -.. / .-- .- ... / .- / -- ..- .-. -.. . .-. .. -. --. / -.-. .... .. .-.. -.. / .-. .- .--. .. ... - Wink I am a Russian Bot |
Posted By: DonDittmar
Date Posted: 07 Apr 2017 at 7:44pm
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Unless you made some shims, factory shims are sold in .005 increments. You are probably mistaking the stamped "5" for a "2". I can see how this can happen, its kind of funky looking, but I think you have .015 shims NOT .012. You are correct in your assumption. Assuming you have the clutch pack sections shimmed properly you would add to the long center shims to get a total of .205 in each of the three shim locations http://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=41617&title=mechanical-power-director-adjustment-video ------------- Experience is a fancy name for past mistakes. "Great moments are born from great opportunity" 1968 D15D,1962 D19D Also 1965 Cub Loboy and 1958 JD 720 Diesel Pony Start |
Posted By: MACK
Date Posted: 07 Apr 2017 at 9:26pm
| Guess I didn't under stand post. Check stop bolt for hi side. Lever may be hitting it before it is engaged. I would still check over center plates. MACK |
Posted By: ACthunder
Date Posted: 08 Apr 2017 at 7:04pm
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The stop bolt on the lever for the high side is screwed all the way in to allow the lever to go as far forward as possible. I am such a novice, you guys are right on the shims, they are .015... if you flip them over they look like .012, I measured them and they are for sure .015... DUH I should have noticed that.  
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Posted By: ACthunder
Date Posted: 08 Apr 2017 at 7:07pm
| Is the power director hard to take apart and put back together to get a look at the wear on the preload plates and rollers? Looks like the whole thing is put together with snap rings... |
Posted By: MACK
Date Posted: 08 Apr 2017 at 10:03pm
| Unpin long straps at back then remove 6 5/16 bolts holding the two housing togather. Separate the two housings and take them apart. MACK |
Posted By: ACthunder
Date Posted: 09 Apr 2017 at 5:42am
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Ok, now knowing I have .015 shims instead of .012 shims my shim totals are up to spec (thickness wise) REAR shims- (3x .015) = .045 MIDDLE shims- (6x .015 + 3x .010 (one of the .010 is a short outer shim) = .120 FRONT shims- (2x .015 + 1x .010) = .040 For a total of .205 So, I remeasured my engaged and disengaged measurements and see I have compression of: Rear: .034 (spec .042-.046) need to take out .010 and add to center Front: .010 (spec .042-.046) need to take out .034 and add to center So if I take out the above I will have: Rear shims- .030 Middle shims- .165 Front shims- .010 Having only .010 shim left on the Front (low range) makes me think the clutch discs are probably about worn out right? |
Posted By: ACthunder
Date Posted: 09 Apr 2017 at 7:25am
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Here is the rear (high range) preload plate. The wear doesn't look bad, but do you think it is enough to effect things? Could I just use brake cleaner to clean everything up?   
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Posted By: ACthunder
Date Posted: 09 Apr 2017 at 7:26am
| Rollers and ears looked in pretty good shape, nothing broken and no serious flat spots I could see. |
Posted By: MACK
Date Posted: 09 Apr 2017 at 9:50pm
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Yes, they look pretty good. They ware where the rollers role out of valley and on top of plate. That small, flat area will allow roller to fall back into valley if it gets tapered off. Hope every thing goes well for you. MACK |