226 common stroke numbers

226 is 4 bore 4 1/2 stroke so 4 x 4 x .7845 x 4.5 x 4 = 226 to explain numbers 4 = bore .7845 is just a common 4.5 is stroke and 4 is 4 cylinders. From what I have heard lately a common big CI stroke has been 6 inches. And bores are upwards of 4 5/8. Many combinations out there. It amazes me to this day the cubic inches that are made out of something that was as small as 201 CI.Hope this is the answer you were looking for. Lots of different bore and stroke combinations out there.

Here's an old post from Marty Nelson (wi50) that might answer your questions about displacements.

I was searching for the ad I mentioned in the previous post and found Marty's old post. If I find the ad, I will post it.

So that is 388 ci with 6.5 stroke and 4.75"?

It ran at tunica but think it collapsed a oil ring but that's just a hone issue hone another .002 out of it for dry block and that will stop

O.P.S. Heads wrote: So as Shawn from Pa. said, it didn't hold up. It needs to be taken apart and repaired. Please explain how an oil ring collapses from an improper hone job?

Oil rings typically don't get a ring end gap as large as the first or second ring so when the piston to wall clearance isn't enough for a dry block and everything grows the oil ring butts and fails or collapses

Probably scuffed the skirt a little and anothe .002 out of liner will clear an it up if it did scuff . He flat schooled the allis Chalmers guys at tunica like he normally does

Good to see he's finally getting the decimal point in the right place after years of tape measure follies.

Marty I think it still got by birdsong does he still use you or has he given up loosing all the time and switched builders

To answer the original posters question, 4.5 is stock.  A common stroke would be 4.75" if using a Chrystler rod or 4.8 if using the Buda rod without welding a crankshaft.

But if welding then the 5.5 fits nice with Chrystler or Farmall rods, there's common pistons heights that work well.  Or if going with billet rods then 6" fits easy with room to spare, 6.25 needs just a little touch up on the block oil pan rail.

On any engine, I tell people to measure the crankshaft to camshaft centerline distance.  Lets just say it's 5" on an engine.  Now we have 5" to work with, we could have a camshaft minimum shaft diameter of say 1", and lets say 2" on a crankpin.  We have to leave just say .4'' clearance to fit a rod cap (thickness of cap at minimum point where it will intersect the camshaft, just say .300" for example), bearing shell thickness (.062 typically)  and clearance to swing.

Taking the centerline distances and the above sizes we have half crankpin diameter, 1" plus half camshaft diameter, .5" and the .400" for clearance and we have a total of 1.9" for our parts.  Take the 5" distance of centerlines and subtract 1.9" we have 3.1" of crankshaft offset, or double that for the stroke length so 6.2" stroke will fit easily.  But with my numbers above I would only have .038" of clearance and we need more than that for an engine to run, things flex.    Now we have to look at the orientation of the camshaft and how the block is cast and what will fit or distances to those items from crankshaft centerline.

The 201 and 226 AC blocks have a 5.25" camshaft to crankshaft centerline distance.  With the above numbers, we could go to 3.45" offset or 6.7" stroke and clear without butchering parts to bad, maintain a 2" crankpin and rod cap with decent strength and not have to butcher the camshaft.

Now we can see what rod cap angle we need to make the rod swing past the camshaft, if it is in the way, or if it's something in the block or how it is built. 

A flat spot on a camshaft or a flat spot on the rod cap will allow for more clearance, or a larger crankpin, larger rod or longer stroke depending on the application.  Hence, shrinking the rod, the crankpin or the cam allows for longer stroke or more clearance, but what's going to last and what isn't?  It's not rocket science, just basic math and geometry.

Somewhere I had pictures of a simple tool I made to simulate different stroke lengths and parts.  I simply turned a slug to fit the main bearing bore and put a 3/4" hole in the center through it, one to fit the rod bore for the rod in question and put a hole in the center tapped for a 3/8" bolt.  A piece of 3/4 shaft with the end tapped for a 3/8" bolt.  Now a series of arms or flat pieces of steel with a hole in each end and the center to center distance of that hole to simulate the crankshaft offset or (1/2 stroke length).  Now I have a tool to use for various engines, rod and stroke combinations to mock up and do a quick check of what fits, how a cap needs to be orientated if making a billet rod, where to position bolts or what to clearance off a rod, block, cam, etc.  I can do this before starting a project so I don't have suprises when done and can clearance an engine without having to assemble and disassemble the nice (and heavy) parts.



Edited by wi50 - 13 Dec 2016 at 1:10pm

do these big c.i. engines have the water jacket  poured full of cement ?

HudCo wrote: do these big c.i. engines have the water jacket  poured full of cement ?

Not cement as in Portland cement but they use various hardening materials in the blocks. Advantages are they can use very thin sleeves, it seals thing up and keeps the water separated from the oil and it also stiffens the entire block.

HudCo wrote: do these big c.i. engines have the water jacket  poured full of cement ?

Typically they are filled with a hardblock, moroso filler etc.  All those are grout based and hard on tooling should you have to machine into it in the future.

I use a product called Rokblok (spelling I'm not sure on)  but it's available from Competition Products in Oshkosh Wi.  It's fiber based, use water and mix up to a pancake batter consistancy, it hardens in 15 minutes or so and is full cured in 24 hrs.  I'll plug the holes in the top of the block and I have a little plate with a air fitting so I hook on the water pump port, I'll put 5-10PSi air in when I fill to force it anywhere things could leak and I pound the block with a dead blow hammer for a bit also.

Marty Tunica must b the only place Panky and friends pull at.lol. Never been there but I wander what is so hard about pulling at Tunica. If it wasn't so far I would take my big cubes and have some fun with them.

mgburchard wrote: If it's to far just go to Maryland

The general layout of the United States is  now included on the rather large list of things in life that escape you,  LOL