WC pulling sugestions

Find you a good WD45 crank as it is 4.5" stroke and a direct replacement. Order a 4.125 overbore kit for the WC use the stock rods. I use this setup and pull up to 4500 NATPA rules. At local pulls I can hang in there with some of the hotter tractors. I am using a TSX 871 carb and WD45 manifold on mine also.  This is the least expensive route to go unless you want to go big and really stoke the crank out and bore the block for bigger pistons.

Three of the most important variables I found on a stock tractor were tires, balance and the hitch. Power is probably the most important, but also the most expensive and hardest to change quickly.

Most associations specify that the hitch must be a minimum of 18" back from the center of the rear wheels and no more than 20" high (check your local rules). If you can get your hitch right to these specs, you will get the biggest advantage possible for weight transfer.

Ideally, you would like to see the front wheels just touching the track when you are nearing the end of your pull. Since we pull on everything from pure clay to stone dust, balance can be a challenge. Watching the tractors pull before you can give you a good idea where to place weights.

Tires are also a big factor. I always found the rule of thumb to be softer tires on a soft track and harder tires on a hard track. If you can have someone video your pull it will give you a good idea how much your sidewalls are flexing and how your balance is.

I would think the WC with the 45 crank and over bore flat tops would make more. Depending on what Pistons you use ill probably come out around 9:1 compression which would be more then the gleaner and as far as I know they are the same cam grind in all the 226 other then the 175.

Barely spinning it out and spinning it out with authority are two different things. Sounds to me like you improve the traction one bit and then the engine will stall. MORE POWER.

Thanks for all the replies! I would like to keep the stock "look" of the tractor for now. The consensus seems to be that using a WD45 crankshaft in my 1937 block with 4 1/8th WD pistons will the best way to go. I already have a good WD45 crankshaft, but I will need to scrounge up some other parts. I will want to keep the side exit manifold and probably the 3" head. If this setup will give about 9:1 compression ratio, will I be able to hand crank start it with a magneto?

Once I figure out where to put the weights correctly, I'll probably power out. I did adjust the hitch so I am 19" out and 19" up. Thanks

You might get some good info from this thread.

There is a lot of good info on some of the different options for the 201/226, since you are talking about changing to a 226 crankshaft.