WC pulling sugestions
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Other Topics
Forum Name: Pulling Forum
Forum Description: Forum dedicated to Tractor and Garden Pulling
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=111887
Printed Date: 25 Nov 2024 at 7:35am
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: WC pulling sugestions
Posted By: Alex09(WI)
Subject: WC pulling sugestions
Date Posted: 13 Sep 2015 at 12:43am
I pulled my 1937 WC last weekend for the first time in the 3000 and 3500 3.5mph classes. I currently have the original WC kerosene engine block & head with side exit manifold, TSX159 carb, FMJ magneto, D17 governor spring. No electrics.
I started out at full throttle in 1st gear, went 150ft down the track slowly losing rpms until it got to about 1000rpm then lugged another 50ft staying at 1000rpms and spun out. (that happened in both weight classes) Got 2nd (out of 2) in 3000 and 3rd (of 4) in 3500.
Any advice as to improve performance? I would like to appear stock at least to non-allis people and would like to stay in the paced 3.5mph and 3500lbs down to 2600? I would be pulling against JD Bs, Massey 81, Oliver 66, Moline BFs. Thanks
-------------
www.awtractor.com
A&W TRACTOR 920-598-1287
KEEPING ALLIS-CHALMERS IN THE FIELDS THROUGH THE 21ST CENTURY
|
Replies:
Posted By: ksbowhunter
Date Posted: 13 Sep 2015 at 4:41am
Find you a good WD45 crank as it is 4.5" stroke and a direct replacement. Order a 4.125 overbore kit for the WC use the stock rods. I use this setup and pull up to 4500 NATPA rules. At local pulls I can hang in there with some of the hotter tractors. I am using a TSX 871 carb and WD45 manifold on mine also. This is the least expensive route to go unless you want to go big and really stoke the crank out and bore the block for bigger pistons.
-------------
2-37 WC
37 wf127
37 wf130
|
Posted By: Charlie175
Date Posted: 13 Sep 2015 at 6:15am
if you are spinning out you need more traction. Better tires?
-------------
Charlie
'48 B, '51 CA, '56 WD45 '61 D17, '63 D12, '65 D10 , '68 One-Ninety XTD
|
Posted By: WF owner
Date Posted: 13 Sep 2015 at 6:16am
Three of the most important variables I found on a stock tractor were tires, balance and the hitch. Power is probably the most important, but also the most expensive and hardest to change quickly.
Most associations specify that the hitch must be a minimum of 18" back from the center of the rear wheels and no more than 20" high (check your local rules). If you can get your hitch right to these specs, you will get the biggest advantage possible for weight transfer.
Ideally, you would like to see the front wheels just touching the track when you are nearing the end of your pull. Since we pull on everything from pure clay to stone dust, balance can be a challenge. Watching the tractors pull before you can give you a good idea where to place weights.
Tires are also a big factor. I always found the rule of thumb to be softer tires on a soft track and harder tires on a hard track. If you can have someone video your pull it will give you a good idea how much your sidewalls are flexing and how your balance is.
|
Posted By: 48ACWD
Date Posted: 13 Sep 2015 at 6:43pm
|
Would the WC motor build with the 45 crank make more horsepower than a stock gleaner e 226 combine motor and if so how would they compare thanks
|
Posted By: Zaddison
Date Posted: 13 Sep 2015 at 7:22pm
|
I would think the WC with the 45 crank and over bore flat tops would make more. Depending on what Pistons you use ill probably come out around 9:1 compression which would be more then the gleaner and as far as I know they are the same cam grind in all the 226 other then the 175.
|
Posted By: BennyLumpkin
Date Posted: 14 Sep 2015 at 7:11am
If you spun out I'd say you currently have enough power, now you need to apply it. Once you start to power out is the time for more power.
-------------
Central PA Allis Express
1934 WC254
1945 WF
1945 WC135755
1951 WD68085
1953 WD45-150217
1957 WD45D-230744D
B110
|
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 14 Sep 2015 at 8:08am
|
Barely spinning it out and spinning it out with authority are two different things. Sounds to me like you improve the traction one bit and then the engine will stall. MORE POWER.
|
Posted By: BennyLumpkin
Date Posted: 14 Sep 2015 at 9:17am
It's a never ending battle. ..get more power, figure how to apply it, repeat....
-------------
Central PA Allis Express
1934 WC254
1945 WF
1945 WC135755
1951 WD68085
1953 WD45-150217
1957 WD45D-230744D
B110
|
Posted By: Alex09(WI)
Date Posted: 15 Sep 2015 at 11:34pm
Thanks for all the replies! I would like to keep the stock "look" of the tractor for now. The consensus seems to be that using a WD45 crankshaft in my 1937 block with 4 1/8th WD pistons will the best way to go. I already have a good WD45 crankshaft, but I will need to scrounge up some other parts. I will want to keep the side exit manifold and probably the 3" head. If this setup will give about 9:1 compression ratio, will I be able to hand crank start it with a magneto?
Once I figure out where to put the weights correctly, I'll probably power out. I did adjust the hitch so I am 19" out and 19" up. Thanks
-------------
www.awtractor.com
A&W TRACTOR 920-598-1287
KEEPING ALLIS-CHALMERS IN THE FIELDS THROUGH THE 21ST CENTURY
|
Posted By: WF owner
Date Posted: 16 Sep 2015 at 5:31am
One more inch of hitch height (to get to 20") and using a stationary hitch rather than a clevis, will still make a big difference. I vary hitch length, making the hitch longer for soft tracks to get the front end lighter and shorter on clay tracks to help keep the front end on the ground.
|
Posted By: WF owner
Date Posted: 16 Sep 2015 at 5:34am
http://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=111951&title=170-rebuild-questions" rel="nofollow - You might get some good info from this thread.
There is a lot of good info on some of the different options for the 201/226, since you are talking about changing to a 226 crankshaft.
|
|