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Structures 1964 Allis D15 Series II |
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structures
Silver Level Joined: 28 Feb 2011 Location: Beggs, OK Points: 333 |
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Posted: 04 Jan 2014 at 10:02am |
Hello, I am planning to get my dad's old D15 tractor running. Hopefully... It has been parked in his pasture for who know's how long. It's pretty rough b/c he has robbed parts from it over the years for other equipment. The carb a marvel schebler tsx869, has a cracked bowl. The tires had fluid in them originally so the rims are no good. The crank is stuck (not the first time I've dealt with that on equipment). Everything has oil in it which is a plus. However I didn't see any fluid in the radiator...
Here's some pics from the other day. If you guys have any advise or comments I'd appreciate it! Thanks Robert. Power steering |
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tiger27
Orange Level Joined: 06 Aug 2013 Location: USA Points: 469 |
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Good thing you took before pics..
cant wait to see the After....pics good luck |
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DSeries4
Orange Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Ontario, Canada Points: 7332 |
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I've seen worse. I'm sure you can save it. Rust free fenders are a big plus and it's not too beaten up. Take your time freeing up the engine. Those rear rims don't look too bad, just weld in some fresh metal where it has rotten away (remove tires first!). Do you know why he parked it? Does he know something about it that you don't?
Good luck with it! |
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'49 G, '54 WD45, '55 CA, '56 WD45D, '57 WD45, '58 D14, '59 D14, '60 D14, '61 D15D, '66 D15II, '66 D21II, '67 D17IV, '67 D17IVD, '67 190XTD, '73 620, '76 185, '77 175, '84 8030, '85 6080
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Eldon (WA)
Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Spokane, WA Points: 7765 |
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It doesn't look too bad...do you know why it was parked? A low houred Series II is definitely worth saving. Good Luck!
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ALLIS EXPRESS!
This year: |
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omahagreg
Orange Level Access Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Omaha, Nebraska Points: 2800 |
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A little duck tape should fix it right up! LOL
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Greg Kroeker
1950 WD with wide front and Freeman trip loader |
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FloydKS
Orange Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: S E Kansas Points: 8118 |
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Not as bad as you describe...cept that front rim, as has been said take your time and we will looking at those after pics.
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Holding a grudge is like taking poison and expecting the other person to die
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Austin(WI)
Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Wisconsin Points: 1460 |
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Bring her back to life, and don't forget to show your AC friends on here! :D
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"Better By Design"
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Dipstick In
Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Remington, In. Points: 8602 |
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It's your Dad's tractor! It is worth EXACTLY how much you are willing to put into it, and don't let ANYBODY tell you different!!!!!!!
I have my Dad's 37 WC that he bought new, (traded a Farmall F12 in) and it really is a basket case, because I took it apart 10 or more years ago, realized I didn't have the talent or "know how" then and have since been learning. I've done several since for practice, A 1950 WD, 1940 Farmall H, and a 1951 MM Z, plus some other resto's, and miscellaneous painting. My goal is to have this tractor running by fair time this summer, and I will. I have about 10 son's, sons-in-law, grandsons, buddies, like Eric Clark, and his 2 sons,and my other brother, Darrell for a backup team. I wish you well, and I know it will be a lesson in love for you! By the time you are done, you will have connected with your Dad in unimaginable ways!
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You don't really have to be smart if you know who is!
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structures
Silver Level Joined: 28 Feb 2011 Location: Beggs, OK Points: 333 |
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Man you guys are full of encouragement! I've had good luck freeing up seized engines. This one seems a little tricky b/c there's no real good way to get ahold of the crank how it sits now. I'll definitely keep you up to date. I'm going to try and splice some sections of rim at first. They're 13x26 which appears to be not so common. The left is pretty bad and the right doesn't look too bad. I have scrap rim off a d17 which I might be able to cut up and use.
A little more to the story. My dad was a farmer from ohhh 1960ish to roughly 1988. He bought a lot of equipment in the 60s, much he still uses today. (Allis D17, 190xt). He was pretty notorious for just parking his equipment. You know I've never asked him why he stopped using it. I think it started when he pulled the hub off the front to use on his d17.
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tiger27
Orange Level Joined: 06 Aug 2013 Location: USA Points: 469 |
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I skimmed over ..it was Dads tractor..Dip is right..they only make one Dad ..and he bought the right tractor. .
Priceless. ..for sure fix it..and have a parade tractor.... |
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wood
Orange Level Joined: 15 Sep 2009 Location: alabama Points: 291 |
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I like it, good project.
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TREVMAN
Orange Level Joined: 04 Jan 2010 Location: Regina,Sask,Can Points: 1635 |
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Ive started with way worse, definitely saveable in my opinion, will make a really nice tractor restored, Trev.
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John Ontario Canada
Bronze Level Joined: 04 Jan 2014 Location: Midland Ontario Points: 31 |
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Awesome my brother still has my Dads original series 2 on farm. Great tractor 8500 hours and still Purrigggggggg. Bring yours back. John
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lowell66dart
Orange Level Joined: 10 Jul 2013 Location: Paulina La. Points: 964 |
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Wish I could find my Dad's Allis. Oh yeah, you have my vote for taking great pics.
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AC 6080 (8030,7060,200,175,D-17HC, 6040,160,6140 all gone) Farmall 1066 & 656 Hi-Clear (for sale), White 2-62 High Clearance, JD 4255 Hi Clear.
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DiyDave
Orange Level Access Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Gambrills, MD Points: 51670 |
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Drop the pan, jack against a rod that's on the way up, pull the plugs, oil the cyls with your favorite penetrating oil. Pull the valve cover and check the freeze plugs in the head. You're on your way, found the right site for advise.
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Froggieo
Silver Level Joined: 09 Jul 2013 Location: Wabash, IN Points: 54 |
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I bought Grandpas 1937 WC, it was rusted and had a cracked block. I gave $1,000 which was too much but it was Grandpas and I wanted it.
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Josh Day
Orange Level Joined: 29 Nov 2010 Location: Indiana Points: 3427 |
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Like Dip and tiger said, only one dads tractor. Good luck!
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AC's 75' 7040, 64' D-17S4, 55'WD-45, 54' WD-45, 53' WD-45, 53' WD, 52' CA, 36' WC. IH 656. Deere's 38' A, and 47' A
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JayIN
Orange Level Joined: 18 Dec 2009 Location: SE/IN Points: 1982 |
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D17 should have 28" rim. D15 26". I had a 15II. I put Combine tires and wheels on it. A GREAT TRACTOR! I want another one.
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sometimes I walk out to my shop and look around and think "Who's the idiot that owns this place?"
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BV
Silver Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Bono Arkansas Points: 484 |
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Get her running I have 2 of the Series II 15's and they are handy little tractors, I also like D-10 's and the CA's.
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TimNearFortWorth
Orange Level Joined: 12 Dec 2009 Points: 2014 |
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I would first have a good chat with your dad concerning why he really parked it, then seriously consider rebuilding the engine. Was it a gear jumper, and how bad? If it has sat outside for years, I would not be inclined to "soak" it and try to pull it around in an attempt to break it free.
Open air cleaner housing, cracked carb, questionable anti-freeze and mud dobbers gettin into every nook and cranny (can relate as we deal with them in N. TX) ..........
160 engines take a tad bit more funds for a proper rebuild when compared to a 138/149 engine but you will be glad you did as the risk of tearing up parts like connecting rods at a minimum by forcing it will hit your wallet even harder.
I have three SII units and love them; a factory 3-pt. with 6 bolt fronts and factory spool valves, a gas SC and a propane SC and they are a great size unit in the 46-47hp range.
Just wish they had two-way hydraulics and the lower pressure system but hey, plenty of WD/WD45 attachments still out there and they are great behind the D15II. Love mine on the SC blades as you can do plenty of work with it.
That factory top link bracket is getting a bit rare and it looks like yours can be straightened, plus it has been quite some time since I have seen such a nice original battery tray on any D15 Series. If you pull the engine, address the PS fittings as you will wish you did once you get her back running; most leaked and it is near impossible to access the fittings unless you pull the front bolster and remove the engine side rails.
Ray's Allis Parts in Beattie, KS (785-353-2392) always seems to have plenty of D-Series parts and he has helped me with numerous goodies for mine so parts are out there.
Good units and still my favorite A-C.
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structures
Silver Level Joined: 28 Feb 2011 Location: Beggs, OK Points: 333 |
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Guys thanks for the comments. It's appreciated. Right now I'm just trying to get it running. I soaked the cylinders in pb blaster yesterday and put a spanner wrench on the front pulley with no luck. I did get some parts off for cleaning. The tank actually didn't look too bad. Although it was full of varnish. The air cleaner on the other hand I'm having trouble with. I broke the ears off the wing nut for the paper element, so I guess I'll be trying something else.
fuel gauge wasn't too bad. Need to clean it up. Here's a shot in the tank from the fuel gauge hole. A little piece of the cork stuck in the varnish when I pulled the gauge out The air cleaner is giving me some trouble. I threaded a bolt in the end for some leverage, but that just left me breaking the wing nut! |
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Robert
1964 D15 Series II |
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JayIN
Orange Level Joined: 18 Dec 2009 Location: SE/IN Points: 1982 |
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Interesting,,......... keep it up!
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sometimes I walk out to my shop and look around and think "Who's the idiot that owns this place?"
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Sugarmaker
Orange Level Joined: 12 Jul 2013 Location: Albion PA Points: 8278 |
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Structures,
I dont post here much but your D15 project tractor caught my attention. Nice if you can still talk to your Dad about this tractor. I always liked the look of these D series tractors. Relative of mine had the D17 version. And I recently drooled over a D14 narrow front end tractor close by with a disassembled engine. Owner wants $1000 for it. Anyway I think these family tractors are great projects. I currently have my dad's WD in the garage torn down to the engine and castings. Not planning to rebuild the engine as it ran very well and was owned and overhauled by my Uncle for 30 years. I hope your restoration work goes well on the D15. Very nice looking tractor. You have taken good pictures as you started into this. Keep up the good work. Regards, Chris Edited by Sugarmaker - 12 Jan 2014 at 11:15am |
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DaveKamp
Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Apr 2010 Location: LeClaire, Ia Points: 5754 |
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First of all- it's a project with family history, therefore, it has connected soul. Next, it's fairly complete, and doesn't appear to have any blazingly expensive-looking defects... i.e., I don't see any cracks in major castings.
Cracked float bowl suggests that moisture may have gotten into the carb and froze it. That muffler type has a weakness, in that the upper side can rot through and allow rain to funnel into the engine, so you may be in for some hard work. I agree with Tim on this one- personally would NOT bother putting a wrench on the crank or soaking this one, because removal of the engine inevitably within the progress path of that tractor... it WILL happen, because you need to get into everything else as well. If you bite the bullet NOW, it will save you substantial heartache later. I'd get the tractor into the shop, on stands, pull it down, and as you do, make a first-check assessment of each component, and take good notes. Get the engine out, yank the head and pan, and figure out just how serious it is. Do same for clutch, power director, transmission, rearend, brakes, and final drives. There's gonna be water, oil glop, and plenty of mice and mud-wasp mess to clear out. Once you have it torn down, make a list of every part that needs to be replaced, and every component that needs to be refurbished, then methodically go through each section. You may find that some serious housekeeping and some new gaskets and seals will help some things, and you may find elsewhere clues to the reason it was 'parked'. But that's not all- the act of being parked for one reason, often subjects your patient to other conditions and forces which can render the machine at-risk for future damage if proper attention isn't taken prior to running it again. Frequently, the unforseen problem turns out to be caused by extended damage that would have been averted if a thorough cleanout and inspection had been performed. Once you've had it open enough to check EVERYTHING out, you can determine the scope of what you'll have to invest (both time and money), and know what kinds of things you'll need to acquire. When searching for parts, it's best to carry a list of ALL that you need, because 1) find many of the parts you need at the same source, and 2) will save you trips later and 3) correct parts on hand, allow you to tackle three or four different facets of the project in a given allotment of shop time. You won't be stalled by the lack of 1 engine item, because you can apply your remaining shop time to say... reassembling the final drives. Once you have a good grasp for the whole machine, make your decision to either pursue, or just clean and slap it back together for future attention... whatever your economics holds. If you don't, what will most likley happen, is that an unforseen problem will bring progress to a halt, and force you to roll it back out into the field, and leave it lay in pieces. |
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Ten Amendments, Ten Commandments, and one Golden Rule solve most every problem. Citrus hand-cleaner with Pumice does the rest.
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cottonpatch
Silver Level Joined: 17 Nov 2010 Location: VIRGINIA Points: 285 |
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I just did a 66 D15 II engine, full engine kit, magnaflux head and block, new cam bearings, head reworked with new valves, springs, keeper, oil pump rebuilt with new vanes and springs. Total parts and machine shop bill exceeded $2K. Rick in MO did the clutch, pressure plate and new throwout bearing => $220 shipped. I hope this may give you an idea of capital outlay. :) |
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'52 CA, '61 D10 II, ‘61 D15, '66 D15II, '63 D17D III, ‘69 170, '73 185 Crop Hustler, '79 185, '79 7000, '77 7040
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DiyDave
Orange Level Access Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Gambrills, MD Points: 51670 |
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I'll add one thing. Take pictures of how it looks coming apart, and mark every component for order and direction, and take pics of the marks, too. Them cell phone cameras are mighty handy in the shop!
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B26240
Orange Level Joined: 21 Nov 2009 Location: mn Points: 3860 |
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The series II D15 is the one we all want in that size tractor !! plus it's your Dads -- WOW I'm with Dave Kamp and anyone else who says you should take the engine apart, yes 2K may seem like a lot of money but after you fix it right it will last your life time. When you get her all fixed from one end to the other you will have way more than it will sell for but thats the way this hobby goes. Keep us posted !! Mark
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Walter(MO)
Bronze Level Joined: 26 Dec 2009 Location: Warrenton, MO Points: 127 |
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When you get the tractor restored you probably will be looking at a new set of rubber. Two years ago I put new firestones on the fronts and new 14.9 x 26 Titans on the rear. Best investment I made because I feed two big bales every other day with my D15 II.
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cottonpatch
Silver Level Joined: 17 Nov 2010 Location: VIRGINIA Points: 285 |
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Walter, I got the same setup on my 15 II, new titans on the rear and new firestones on the front. With the rubber and all we've done to her, I hate to admit what I have in that little tractor. She sure runs sweet now.
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'52 CA, '61 D10 II, ‘61 D15, '66 D15II, '63 D17D III, ‘69 170, '73 185 Crop Hustler, '79 185, '79 7000, '77 7040
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DSeries4
Orange Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Ontario, Canada Points: 7332 |
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You mentioned difficulty getting the wing nut off the air cleaner. No wonder! I do not see any penetrating oil on there anywhere! For something sitting outside that long, you should be oiling the hell out of every nut and bolt. It will make your life much easier.
Don't be in such a hurry to get that engine loose. Let the oil do its thing. When you see it dripping out the bottom of the engine, keep oiling it! I had to soak my D14 engine for over 3 months - that was just to take it apart (not try to get loose). |
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'49 G, '54 WD45, '55 CA, '56 WD45D, '57 WD45, '58 D14, '59 D14, '60 D14, '61 D15D, '66 D15II, '66 D21II, '67 D17IV, '67 D17IVD, '67 190XTD, '73 620, '76 185, '77 175, '84 8030, '85 6080
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