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Les Kerf 
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Location: Idaho
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 Topic: Ran When Parked...
Posted: 04 Jul 2025 at 9:49pm |
The derelict Model C mentioned above is now in the shop; I am working on the front wheels, they appear to be steel spoked wheels that someone cut off the rims and welded rubber tire rims on them. They are rusted through so I intend to weld some better rims on.
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DaveKamp
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Joined: 12 Apr 2010
Location: LeClaire, Ia
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Posted: 22 Mar 2025 at 10:09pm |
Jay said "at 71 I'm not in a hurry....though it'd be nice if ONE of my 2 big toes healed up soon..."
Jay, 'ya got me beat in that category... I got one healed big toe, and aside from a few owies along the way, that's the way for the last 43 years... 
That crank is pretty rough. I know guys that could clean it up, but I don't think it could be done as economically as finding a usable replacement. Getting the sleeves out... probably scrub it out as best I could, unbolt the rods and shimmy the crank out, then long hardwood block on the pistons, and drive the sleeves, slugs, etc., all out together.
If it froze, I would be surprised if it didn't have freeze fractures along the beltline zone between the crankcase and lower end of the liners... and probably the webbing between cylinder liners... but 'ya won't know 'till you got it pulled down and cleaned up.
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Ten Amendments, Ten Commandments, and one Golden Rule solve most every problem. Citrus hand-cleaner with Pumice does the rest.
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Les Kerf
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Posted: 21 Mar 2025 at 7:53am |
 wjohn wrote:
Oof! Do you have another salvageable crank? |
I have not examined the crank in the derelict Model C yet
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wjohn
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Posted: 20 Mar 2025 at 11:47pm |
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Oof! Do you have another salvageable crank?
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1939 B, 1940 B, 1941 WC, 1951 WD, 1952 CA, 1956 WD-45
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Les Kerf
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Posted: 20 Mar 2025 at 4:55pm |
The saga continues: It just gets worse and worse!
A bit difficult to get a good photo, but this is the front main journal on the blower engine. The crankshaft has been shoved ahead with massive wear on the thrust surface; it is 'stuck' so I do not yet know how much end play it has, but I intend to get it loose and lift it out.
The release fingers on the clutch are worn so badly that they actually folded completely over.
This engine PTO has the straight-through output shaft with a V-pulley on it so there are no gears involved to allow putting the PTO in neutral (the shaft turns at engine speed). The only way to disengage the PTO is to release the clutch, which has a little metal tab that can be flipped over to lock the lever forward; the throwout bearing is then riding fully on the release fingers to hold the clutch in the released position.
Since this engine is a hand-cranked unit, I'm pretty certain that the operators left the engine running and simply locked the clutch 'out' while they doodled around getting the next load of hay, etc. rather than wasting the effort to re-start it. Hence the massive thrust wear on the clutch and crankshaft.
I doubt the crankshaft is salvageable.
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Les Kerf
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Posted: 15 Jan 2025 at 9:39am |
ekjdm14 wrote:
Wow, as per others I thought I was ambitious until I saw this thread! Definitely think that blower engine is a little past what even I would'a tried to revive, though it'd be interesting to see if the cracked liners could be welded up and forced to go again haha! |
I actually had already purchased a cylinder/piston sleeve kit, valve train kit, water pump and full gasket set ahead of time in preparation for this project. However, the blower engine looks so bad, and the combine engine looks so good, that the only parts I will need for now are the gaskets. I haven't given up on the blower engine just yet though 
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Les Kerf
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Posted: 15 Jan 2025 at 9:30am |
steve(ill) wrote:
LES... so the GOAL is to get SOMETHING to put in the little C tractor for your Grandson to run..?? . and you want it to be electric start... |
That pretty much sums it up, except it will more realistically be for me to run since my Grandson seems to have commandeered my other Model C (and now my 1941 Johnny Popper as well) 
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steve(ill)
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Posted: 15 Jan 2025 at 8:07am |
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LES... so the GOAL is to get SOMETHING to put in the little C tractor for your Grandson to run..?? . and you want it to be electric start...
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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ekjdm14
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Posted: 15 Jan 2025 at 7:23am |
Wow, as per others I thought I was ambitious until I saw this thread! Definitely think that blower engine is a little past what even I would'a tried to revive, though it'd be interesting to see if the cracked liners could be welded up and forced to go again haha!
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Les Kerf
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Posted: 14 Jan 2025 at 10:25am |
Lars(wi) wrote:
Would it be more advantageous to convert the combine to PTO? |
I did not mean to be misleading; the combine will probably never run again and never has since I have owned it, I wouldn't even begin to know how to run it. I bought it from another neighbor about 40 years ago, I do remember seeing it run back in the 70's when the neighbor put in about 20 acres of oats. He had his Father bring the combine up from Coeur d' Alene for the job and it never left the place. I bought it mainly for the engine as I had a Model C at the time.
The engine was stuck when I removed it this winter, but not too badly, and it turns over quite nicely now.
The blower engine is another story, good thing it was cheap. But I got another magneto, which was worth the price in itself.
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Lars(wi)
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Posted: 14 Jan 2025 at 9:23am |
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Would it be more advantageous to convert the combine to PTO?
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I tried to follow the science, but it was not there. I then followed the money, and that’s where I found the science.
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Les Kerf
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Posted: 14 Jan 2025 at 9:08am |
plummerscarin wrote:
Daaannngggg, I thought I was ambitious  |
We are working under a very LOW budget situation here so don't expect to see a fancy restoration
We need (or at least I think we need) another power plant engine; the combine engine itself could suffice as it has the PTO gearbox, but it has no provision for electric start, and it would be more convenient if it were self-propelled rather than needing to be hauled around for different applications. The derelict tractor should solve both of those problems.
This tractor belonged to a dear family friend and neighbor; I first saw this machine when I was about four years old back in 1962, and I remember helping in the hay fields where it was being used.
The neighbor sold the farm in the late 1960's and passed away a few years later. Subsequent owners neglected the tractor and the block cracked from freezing water.
Somehow my Dad acquired the tractor and it has sat on our place ever since; he wanted to fix it up but passed away far too young. My Grandson and I hope to make it roar once again if the Lord is willing, so this is a labor of love as much as anything.
Edited by Les Kerf - 14 Jan 2025 at 9:10am
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jvin248
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Posted: 14 Jan 2025 at 7:40am |
.
+1 that's a project!
We didn't have a C version on the farm so I had to pull up the Tractor Data page. That looks like a good tractor to have.
Using gov inflation stats, if sold new today it would be a $16,000 tractor. Which seems like a bargain for what you could farm with it.
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plummerscarin
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Posted: 13 Jan 2025 at 3:21pm |
Daaannngggg, I thought I was ambitious
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Les Kerf
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Posted: 13 Jan 2025 at 3:01pm |
This is the Model C for which the combine engine is destined.
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Les Kerf
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Posted: 12 Jan 2025 at 7:22am |
AC7060IL wrote:
Les Kerf, just wondering how your 125 engine is coming along? Thanks for all your follow up photos & answers. |
I am setting the blower engine aside for now and focusing on the Model 60 combine engine as it is in MUCH better condition. Combine bottom view:  Everything looks so good I am not even going to remove the bearing caps. Combine head: A basic cleanup and valve job should suffice.  Combine Head #3 Cylinder: The intake valve seat has been re-worked and machined into the head somewhat deeper, maybe 1/16" or so. Not easy to see in the photo. I am not going to stress over it.  I am planning to re-seal everything and set it aside. I have a derelict Model C in which I hope to install this. That will warrant a new topic.
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HudCo
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Posted: 11 Jan 2025 at 7:29pm |
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just make sure the valves seal and replace the oil sump pickup pipe that is probley cracked and it will run
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KenBWisc
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Posted: 11 Jan 2025 at 3:42pm |
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I fear that is more than electrolysis can handle from my experience.
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'34 WC #629, '49 G, '49 B, '49 WD, '62 D-19, '38 All Crop 60 and still hunting!
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AC7060IL
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Posted: 11 Jan 2025 at 10:55am |
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Les Kerf, just wondering how your 125 engine is coming along? Thanks for all your follow up photos & answers.
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55allis
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Posted: 08 Jan 2025 at 2:38pm |
My bottom end looks pretty nice other than the crank seems to be a bit scored. Hoping it will be fine for the combine being I will have more into the engine than it’s worth. 
Edited by 55allis - 08 Jan 2025 at 2:38pm
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1955 AC WD45 diesel with D262 repower, 1949 AC WD, 1963 A-C D17 series 3, several Allis garden tractors 
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Les Kerf
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Posted: 08 Jan 2025 at 12:05pm |
55allis wrote:
My 60a combine engine looks just like that…
In the process of getting the sleeves out to inspect the block.
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Here is my Model 60 Combine engine, just got it freed up yesterday. MUCH better looking on top, have yet to pull the pan.
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Alberta Phil
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Posted: 08 Jan 2025 at 9:41am |
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I like a challenge, but I might give that one a pass!!
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JoeM(GA)
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Posted: 07 Jan 2025 at 10:24pm |
AC7060IL wrote:
Might be a great candidate for an electrolysis soak (e-bath). Anyone on here ever do an entire engine into a e-bath? How are its head, valves, intake, exhaust manifolds ?? |
brass, copper, and aluminum are negatively affected by electrolysis, it's also a line of sight operation, anode needs to be able to "see" all nooks and cranny's to clean them, would be hard on an assembled engine
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Allis Express North Georgia
41 WC,48 UC Cane,7-G's,
Ford 345C TLB
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Les Kerf
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Posted: 07 Jan 2025 at 10:03pm |
AC7060IL wrote:
Might be a great candidate for an electrolysis soak (e-bath). Anyone on here ever do an entire engine into a e-bath? How are its head, valves, intake, exhaust manifolds ?? |
Bottom View
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Les Kerf
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Posted: 07 Jan 2025 at 9:58pm |
AC7060IL wrote:
Les Kerf, is your engine a D14 149cu in from an AC 30L long conveyor or 30S short auger blower? |
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DSeries4
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Posted: 07 Jan 2025 at 4:34pm |
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My 59 D14 looked similar to that when I got it. Soaked it for several months and pounded out sleeves and all. Both the crank and cam were still good. Put a major OH kit in it and rebuilt the head. She runs 100% now.
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'49 G, '54 WD45, '55 CA, '56 WD45D, '57 WD45, '58 D14, '59 D14, '60 D14, '63 D15D, '66 D15II, '66 D21II, '67 D17IV, '67 D17IVD, '67 190XTD, '73 620, '76 185, '77 175, '84 8030, '85 6080
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plummerscarin
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Posted: 07 Jan 2025 at 3:42pm |
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Looks like the one in my WD project with 2 less cylinders. After complete disassembly the block cleaned up nice and the crank was turned .010” under. New engine kit is making it look real good so far.
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55allis
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Posted: 07 Jan 2025 at 2:00pm |
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My 60a combine engine looks just like that…
In the process of getting the sleeves out to inspect the block.
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1955 AC WD45 diesel with D262 repower, 1949 AC WD, 1963 A-C D17 series 3, several Allis garden tractors
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steve(ill)
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Posted: 06 Jan 2025 at 7:36pm |
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son got a CASE 530 backhoe that was setting in the corn field for 10 years with not stack on it.. ( 15 years ago)... I rebuilt the motor for him... Looked very similar to that one.. Once you get the pistons and crank out and pound out the sleeves.. you got the bare block... If not crack, it will clean up OK.... NEW KIT fixes about 90% of those problems ! ... I had to get the crank turned .020 to clean it up due to rain water in the crank case..
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Les Kerf
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Posted: 06 Jan 2025 at 7:24pm |
DougG wrote:
Wow- junk it and get a different one! |
I actually have different one that looks like it will be much better, although it too is stuck. We got it to move about a half turn today
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