pull start a 180 diesel

As far as I am aware, when the engine is off there is no hydraulic pressure to activate the clutch packs section of the PD, mine will not hold when parked to leave it sit in gear without having the brake locked engaged or the bucket loader stuck into soft ground.

Won't work....too much leakage around seals.....you'd have to keep pumping it up continuously and never exceed 400-500 psi or it could split the clutch itself. Also if you had the tranny in say 3rd gear and pulled it 15 mph the PD clutch could explode from over RPM's.

and i have tried 3 different new starters and none of them start the tractor they will spin it 3 revolutions and then stall out i can let off the starter button then it will turn 3 more revolutions.

you may be able to try air pressure 

well i was wondering about the air pressure thing also because thats how we test the 2 speed clutches on 30, 40, 50, and 55 series tractors

I wouldn't go pull starting that thing, even if you could.  There's something not right and you risk doing more damage than good.  Is this engine a fresh rebuild or something?  It sure sounds like something is locking up on you and that's why you only get 3 turns.  Pull starting it, if possible, would just probably cause some damage.  Can you pull the injectors and try to spin it over with them out (so you have no compression).  That will give us a better idea of where the problem lies.  Make sure everything is in neutral as suggested above also, just in case you are building hydraulic pressure that fast.  

Sounds pretty simple to me, figure out why the engine does not turn over properly and correct the problem. The engine was designed to be started with the starter motor, all tractors operate this way, something is not right,fix the problem

Do not try to pull start!  Large cast housings/PD clutches have exploded when trying to do this.  The last time I knew of one the situation ended with extended hospital stays, many surgeries, and lawsuits.  The only winners were the lawyers.  Dr. Allis gave you good advice; I'd follow it.

I don't think it's a matter of finding a way of pull starting the tractor.  It's the fact that something is binding and that problem needs to be solved before you go trying to yank on the engine.  What ever it is needs to be fixed and pull starting won't do anything but cause more damage, that is all assuming you would be able to build up pressure on the clutch plates in the PD.  

first of all hurst and skipwelte can go and poor word choice themslves, i have been a mechanic for many years and am smart enough to know i have something wrong.  second of all i have pulled the hydraulic pump off the engine and it still has this problem, the reason why im trying to spin the motor is because i think i have surface rust on the cylinder walls. the tractor had been sitting for about 6 years and was partially outside.  the engine only has 3045 hours on it so im ruling out the idea of bottom end  engine failure because when i changed the engine oil it had neither fuel or water in it and no filings whatsoever.  my next point is who in the hell would be stupid enough to pull something at 15 mph anyways i just want to pull it down my drive way at like 2 or 3 mph and spin the motor and get things lubed up again.  i have sprayed yield and free-all down the intake to try to lube the cylinders up and dissolve the rust. i have pulled the valve cover and all my valves are opening and closing properly, i have not pulled the injectors yet as i ran out of time to work on it this weekend.  i came to this site hoping to get some good old fashioned know how and advice not stupid people and stupid comments. i do appreciate the sensible advice i have recieved though. 

I guess if you already knew the answer, why did you ask the question?

I'll just assume you're having a bad day (I've had plenty of them working on tractors) and put the bad part of that post behind me and continue to try to help you with some ideas.  I've been inside a 301 and there are people on here who have been inside more of them than I have probably seen in my life.  Can you give us a little more details on the tractor's condition after sitting.  Did you find the tractor stuck and you are starting to get it loosened up?  If you can, see if a friend will lend you a bore scope so you can actually get a good look inside the cylinders without pulling the head (those head gaskets are around $100 a pop, so I would try this in case everything looks fine).  If not, I would strongly encourage pulling the head off, if for nothing else, a little bit of peace of mind.  While 3000 hours may not sound like much, it could have been plenty of time for the sleeves to have pitted from cavitation and dumped coolant into the crank case (like I said, I don't know how much history you have on this tractor, so if you know the tractor was running fine before parked, this is probably not an issue).  If that is a possibility, there very well could be problems in the bottom end in addition to the bad sleeves.  Again, that is just pure speculation knowing what I know about these motors (that they are very prone to cavitation).  Again, if you tell us what you do and don't know about this tractor's history, especially pertaining to the condition when it was parked and how you found it, that would be a big help.  If you think you have rust in the cylinders, at least get a scope down there and make sure the walls aren't pitted if not pull the head and check for any other problems.  Popping the pistons out to check that all the rings are in tact would be ideal, but that's getting pretty labor intensive and near the point of just OHing the motor.  Fill us in and we can try to give you some more ideas.  I am not trying to be condescending when I say don't pull start the tractor, I am saying that so you are not having to ask if anyone has a good used PD assembly.  I have been around several different brands of tractors that had similar set ups and every manual has stated they should never be tow started as doing so can result in serious injury or death along with damage to components.  I hope this is of some use to you and keep us filled in.

I haven't seen anything on here that wasn't sensible advice.  We all try to look out for each other on here, meaning a lot of times people will post warnings on something that may seem blatantly obvious, but it's better than reading about someone in the obituary too...  I have learned a lot of what I know by reading the words of others on here and having them talk me through repairs, even when I have a service manual right in front of me.  However, that service manual doesn't lay out every little bit of knowledge out there for you, and there have been numerous times people on here have saved my butt by giving me advice to things I thought I already knew the answers to.  It's better for people to put everything they know that may in some way pertain to your problem than to just tell you only the little slice of the answer you are looking for and have you come back and ask why no one warned against the risks.  If you just want straight cut answers for your original post: No you cannot tow start a 180 without causing damage and/or injury.  

Had a 190XT that a neighbor brought over here to "freshen up" for a tractor pull, he drove it over we changed the injectors and pump and put a bigger turbo on it went to start it and the starter refused to spin it fast enough to start, the batterys were poor, the cables a mess, so  put new batteries in it, made new cables would roll but not turn fast enough to make it fire, tried either, a booster still wouldnt roll and drew tons of juice, so I figured the starter was junk, it was hot, so removed a new starter from my own 190XT bolted it on the neighbors would roll it faster but still not fast enough to start, just couldnt understand it. I had the valve cover off  previously and adjusted the valves, and spun the engine over with a ratchet and socket it spun free, the guy drove the tractor here ran fine changed nothing that would have had anything to do with making it turn over so hard, finally gave up on it and told the neighbor he would miss the pull the tractor just refused to fire. 3 days later I decided to check it out more, put a wrench back on the dampner tried to turn it by hand like we had done in the past, and it was tight, dropped the pan and the #5 rod bearing had spun. It must have started to spin on the drive over here but the engine ran didnt knock or show any indication that it had a spun bearing, must have just started to spin as the tractor was shut down, and with the engine sitting cooling down having the bearing dry for a week while it was here must have been just enough of a brake on the crank as to not let it roll fast enough to fire, which in hindsight was a gift from god because had the tractor went to the track, more likely than not the engine would have gernaded. I know this isnt an answer to your direct question but I wonder if that isnt what you have going on. I have not seen a scope that is small enough to fit in the injector hole,we have tried, and if your rolling it by hand I would assume that the rust that may have been in the inside of the cylinder walls is knocked off, and if you have been squirting lube in there I would think by now the cylinders would be slippery enough to let the engine roll. Have had older WD45 that had rust in the cylinders but it would stop the revolution dead, and neither the crank or the starter could over come the rust spot till we removed the cylinder and honed out the rust, so I dont think that would be your problem. But much like the neighbors tractor, the last guy that had worked on the engine was a moron and pulling the engine apart yielded a weath of information on why this engine didnt run right, if you dont know the history of that tractor or why it was parked for so long, or who "tried" fixing it in the past you could have a bunch of issues lurking, hope this helps and I hope you get to the bottom of it.

i can push in the clutch but im not 100% sure it is disconnecting becasue someone had stolen the starter from the tractor back when copper prices were high and u know the rest.  the reason im not sure if it is disconnecting is because im sure the clutch got some moisture in it with an open starter hole to the flywheel.  the lady i bought it froms husband finally died 2 years ago after being bed ridden since he parked the tractor so i cant get much insite on the whole thing.