Pictures of Hydraulic Lines #3

I can't see very much. But, what I can see is whomever went to all this work to make a three-point hitch operate on a  WD tractor wasted his time and screwed up a good thing that needed NOTHING done to it to make the arms go UP---DOWN--- and HOLD.  Your lever on the left side of the steering wheel has a LIFT/LOWER/HOLD position built into it. Why it doesn't work ?? Can't tell you.

looks to me that some one whanted to hook up a double acting cylinder then swith the hose on back for the lift arms , my wd has a pair of remotes plus the remote that works with the lift arms but it is piped and hosed way differant,  i can use all three when i am pulling the v16 hayrake  , my lift arms and factory single remote still workes off of the lever on the steering wheel oil is routed to my pair of remotes with a diverter valve before a single open center spool  the hard part is doing the tubing and hoses so it looks good 

I began to de-Frankenstein this hyd. system today.  I found that the original lines going to the lift cylinders were intact, so I hooked them up to the valve that sets on top of the hyd. pump, with the appropriate line going to the correct ram.  The one line that is coming from valve and looking up, is the line that goes to the control valve that set to the left of the seat.  After revamping  the lift cylinder lines, if you move the control valve to the side of the seat in either direction, the 3 point raises, and will let the arms go down if you nuetralize the lever.  I'm guessing that this control valve is part of the Frankenstein process.  Dr. Allis recommended that I get an operators manual because it has a lot of good pictures that would be of benefit.  I do have an operators manual, but the pictures are very poor and do not show much detail.

J. Larsen wrote: This is a picture of where the return lines ties into the reservoir.  Advice on the control valve and this plumbing would be appreciated. Thanks, JL

If you delete the franken coming off the hold valve,your 2 lift cylinders will operate as intended and you need to get all the control linkage adjusted correctly. You will have lift,lower and hold.

I got rid of all of the extra parts and pieces, and got the lift cylinders plumbed correctly.  I then started to chase down the linkage to see if it was operating correctly.  The "long rod" going from the pump to the control lever was all bound up with rust and worn out cotter pins etc.   I got that all freed up and figured out that it was that rod that shut off the pump.  Prior to this that rod was stuck in a position that had the pump working constantly.  The left hand control lever now works correctly, and now I just need to spend some time to figure out how to interpret the manual and adjust the hold position.  This was a real victory for me, and made my day!  Thanks to all for the advice.