Looking for D19 diesel engine parts

Reddish/brownish color and I'm sure they were Victor brand at .060" or .090" thick.

Couple questions… in the D19 pic above from Don(MI), there appears to be a tube directly behind the oil filter. Is that a blowby tube coming from the valve cover? (Assuming this is a later turbocharged D262). My series 1 D17D engine doesn’t have that “tube”, and relies on the oil filler/breather for a crankcase vent. Saw a D17D on YouTube with same tube in same location, but the hood wasn’t removed so couldn’t determine what the tube was for…. Second question, is there a part number for ARP head stud kit for D262? (Maybe different kits for early or late engines?)

might contact Don's Diesel in Lawrance, KS

Pfouts has an ARP stud kit in stock.  I ordered one just this morning.  Not sure on part number, I'm assuming he assembles these kits himself.

I bet you’re right, and I didn’t think about that. Earlier tractors like mine with the oil bath air cleaner(opposite side and in front) of course didn’t have that!

Thx.

Great resource, who would have thought?  I have a gasket coming from you folks.  So if someone sets these intake valves .031" above the cylinder head surface, are the valves going to hit the pistons?  Or is a trial assembly necessary to determine that?  I have a cheap head gasket here in my gasket set, and have thought all along that it may be required for a trial assembly.

Well, my official service books from Allis-Chalmers are almost as bad as IT books. In my D-19 manual, the intake valves are to be RECESSED .016" to .043", with .016" giving you the best cold starting. The D-17 manual, which doesn't specify what age or series, says .015" to .031" above the head surface. And finally the D-15 manual says NOTHING about valve recession or protrusion. I would expect a series 3 and 4 D-17 diesel to be the latest head casting from the factory. The latest cylinder head castings required different (smaller diameter) injector tips over the early castings. I would imagine you could tell which head you have (recession or protrusion) by looking at the cylinder heads surface and the way it was machined. 

I think you'll figure it out when you look at the installed intake valve. If it already is recessed at more than .016", you have recessed valves.  If there is any sign of the valve head being above flush with the head surface it is a protruding design. I think that style head probably required the valve relief to be cut in the pistons top. I know sooo little about these particular engines (and that's just fine) because in my territory, they were few and far between. They came out in 1961-62 and by 1975 when I began my career, many if not most were already junked out for their diesel engine issues. The gas tractors were still going strong. There's always those who touted how "so and so" had one for years and never had any troubles. To that I say, it's a tractor that was never used hard (as the gas tractors were) or got hooked to a plow or disc much. The blocks were unable to hold the sleeves up. The radiator capacity and fan belt were inadequate on warm days, so much so that they came out with an updated temp gauge that made the "green" band go 10-12 degrees higher AND removed any numbers from the gauge itself. "If it isn't vomiting coolant from the overflow hose, it ain't really hot" is what I was told by a company rep. many decades ago.  And then there is the issue of heads cracking and blown head gaskets. A recipe for constant trouble when used hard.

Negative.  Thanks!

If I owned one of these old relics and wanted to keep it running, it would get a 226 gas motor and I would eat the power loss.  Unfortunately, I don't think this option would net my customer a usable tractor for what he wants to be able to do with it (round baler).

262 gas. Plenty of power. I pull a round baler with one of mine