Lights on-Engine dies

I have 1963 D-17 Ser.3 and something crazy is going on with electrical system. For about 2 years now,when you turn the lights on,the engine dies instantly. Wiggle wires around behind dash panel and it will finally start back. I was thinking about rewiring the tractor this winter. Does anyone know if wiring harness is available from Agco or if it is available from somewhere else? Also -this tractor was 4 yrs. old when I bought it and has a seperate starter button to engage starter. I have original owners manual and it says it starts with key switch. The key switch is original and is spring loaded when turned all the way right it comes back to the on position. the push button starter switch is just to the right of key switch. Has this been changed or did some have seperate starter button? By the way it is a gas engine.    

My father's 1963 Series III D17 has a push button starter on it...came that way when new.  His older 1958 D17 does not have the push button.

I remember a service buletin about the key switch having sticking contacts sometimes. This will allow the starter to stick on and burn out the starter. Allis swapped the starter to the push button to help with this problem. On the diesels the push button was for the intake heater.

In many cases where an engine dies when the head light are turned on I have found that the generating system is not putting out properly. Not having the tractor in front of me I am only guessing but the first thing I would check is that the alternator or generator is putting out properly. There my be 10 other thing that could be causing the problem but that is where I would start. What happens is when the lights are turned on the serge on a weak system robs electricity from the iginition system and the engine dies.  

Joe (TN)

Tungten filament lamps do take a large surge current. Depending on how hot the filament operates, the cold resistance is about 1/15 to 1/16 that of the hot resistance or the cold current surge is 15 to 16 times the operating current. That is why switches without a T (for tungsten) rating weld the contacts on lighting loads.

A system with a working battery, should run the lights and the ignition off the battery if the generator can't supply the lighting surge but if it starts the battery and its connections can't be too bad.

This is not to say there can't be wiring errors causing severe overload problems and a blown switch that can't carry the needed current.

Gerald J.