Lights on-Engine dies
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Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
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URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=21437
Printed Date: 14 Nov 2024 at 3:56pm Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: Lights on-Engine dies
Posted By: Ky.Allis
Subject: Lights on-Engine dies
Date Posted: 27 Nov 2010 at 5:51pm
I have 1963 D-17 Ser.3 and something crazy is going on with electrical system. For about 2 years now,when you turn the lights on,the engine dies instantly. Wiggle wires around behind dash panel and it will finally start back. I was thinking about rewiring the tractor this winter. Does anyone know if wiring harness is available from Agco or if it is available from somewhere else? Also -this tractor was 4 yrs. old when I bought it and has a seperate starter button to engage starter. I have original owners manual and it says it starts with key switch. The key switch is original and is spring loaded when turned all the way right it comes back to the on position. the push button starter switch is just to the right of key switch. Has this been changed or did some have seperate starter button? By the way it is a gas engine.
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Replies:
Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 27 Nov 2010 at 6:45pm
The contacts may be bad in the key switch for starting so somebody added a button. I would be real concerned about burning the barn down with an electrical system like that. Steve Barbato at B and B custom circuits may have a harness. I'm sure he does WD's and 45's. Look in the members list for Steve in NJ and you can PM him. You might find a harness on ebay also.
------------- http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF
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Posted By: DanD
Date Posted: 27 Nov 2010 at 9:07pm
My father's 1963 Series III D17 has a push button starter on it...came that way when new. His older 1958 D17 does not have the push button.
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Posted By: DSeries4
Date Posted: 27 Nov 2010 at 11:31pm
Dan is right about the push button. My Series IV and D15 II both have the push button. Wiring harnesses are very easy to find - Don't go to AGCO for it. Lots of vendors here have them for a decent price.
------------- '49 G, '54 WD45, '55 CA, '56 WD45D, '57 WD45, '58 D14, '59 D14, '60 D14, '61 D15D, '66 D15II, '66 D21II, '67 D17IV, '67 D17IVD, '67 190XTD, '73 620, '76 185, '77 175, '84 8030, '85 6080
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Posted By: D-17_Dave
Date Posted: 27 Nov 2010 at 11:50pm
I remember a service buletin about the key switch having sticking contacts sometimes. This will allow the starter to stick on and burn out the starter. Allis swapped the starter to the push button to help with this problem. On the diesels the push button was for the intake heater.
For your problem of the engine shutting off, I'd say you have a bad switch. But only with a test light or other trouble shooting meter will you be able to trace the failer of power to pass to the coil.
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Posted By: john(MI)
Date Posted: 28 Nov 2010 at 7:35am
It sounds like the light switch is shorting to ground, basically taking the 12v from the coil. Remove it from the panel and with it in hand, not touching the tractor, turn on the lights and see what happens.
I guess it could be a wire "from" the switch going to the lights that may be worn bare and touching metal as well!
------------- D14, D17, 5020, 612H, CASE 446
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Posted By: Hartland Farm
Date Posted: 28 Nov 2010 at 8:18am
In many cases where an engine dies when the head light are turned on I have found that the generating system is not putting out properly. Not having the tractor in front of me I am only guessing but the first thing I would check is that the alternator or generator is putting out properly. There my be 10 other thing that could be causing the problem but that is where I would start. What happens is when the lights are turned on the serge on a weak system robs electricity from the iginition system and the engine dies.
Joe (TN)
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Posted By: Steve in NJ
Date Posted: 28 Nov 2010 at 7:14pm
Sounds like one of the Accessory or Ignition circuit wires is going to ground. This will kill the Ignition if on or off the same circuitry. We offer a new custom wiring system for the D17 Ser.III. Drop us a line if interested... Thanks "Tuck" for the mention!! Steve@B&B
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Posted By: Gerald J.
Date Posted: 28 Nov 2010 at 9:00pm
Tungten filament lamps do take a large surge current. Depending on how hot the filament operates, the cold resistance is about 1/15 to 1/16 that of the hot resistance or the cold current surge is 15 to 16 times the operating current. That is why switches without a T (for tungsten) rating weld the contacts on lighting loads.
A system with a working battery, should run the lights and the ignition off the battery if the generator can't supply the lighting surge but if it starts the battery and its connections can't be too bad.
This is not to say there can't be wiring errors causing severe overload problems and a blown switch that can't carry the needed current.
Gerald J.
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Posted By: bigallis1
Date Posted: 29 Nov 2010 at 6:41am
I definately would not leave the battery hooked up until you get it fixed. A PIA but better safe than sorry! Just my 2 cents...............
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