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Hydraulic oil amount for trip loader(CA) |
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Hunt4Allis
Orange Level Joined: 13 Mar 2018 Location: Ohio Points: 1160 |
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Posted: 29 May 2020 at 6:56pm |
Just about got trip loader ready for first on my CA.
How do you get the right amount of hydraulic oil in tractor if I've emptied all hoses( brand new) And dumped out oil from cylinders/ cleaned them My tractors hydraulic fluid is where it needs to be when using just the rear lift Rams. But now without cylinders/lines having any oil in them, how do I know what amount is correct? On a side note I'm shocked that the cylinders just pulled apart into two pieces today, so it makes me wonder what stops them from extending too far when in use?
Edited by Hunt4Allis - 29 May 2020 at 6:57pm |
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jaybmiller
Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Greensville,Ont Points: 23195 |
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On my D-14, you read the dip stick when th elift is fully up (ram extended). Now you 'could' read the manual as to how many quarts it is...I just glugged,glugged, checked, added more and the tractor was happy..... I think the ram is just a ram, no 'piston' or end piece, same as D-14 ??so it will 'pop out' if really yanked on, normally seals will keep it from 'just' falling out.....
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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor) Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water |
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MACK
Orange Level Joined: 17 Nov 2009 Points: 7664 |
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Should have a snapring on end to keep it from coming out. MACK
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Hunt4Allis
Orange Level Joined: 13 Mar 2018 Location: Ohio Points: 1160 |
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Hmmmm, no snap ring
I'm hoping that either mechanically or weight limited that it will stop the cylinder from completely coming apart when in use then... the only seal is a simple o-ring on the end of the inside of the shaft that the cylinder slides into. So with my hydraulic system already full just with the rear rams on it and all the hydraulic lines and cylinders empty what would be the best way to fill it? (I'm assuming once it's connected and I operate the lever to raise or lower the rear rams that oil will begin to flow into the empty lines and empty Rams and then I can just continue to add oil until the dipstick shows it's okay?) Initially I don't plan on putting a diverter valve in, I will just use the front trip loader bucket operated by the valve handle on the tractors hydraulic unit (I know the rear Rams will go up and down at the same time as the front cylinders for the trip loader bucket) Edited by Hunt4Allis - 30 May 2020 at 7:25am |
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Hunt4Allis
Orange Level Joined: 13 Mar 2018 Location: Ohio Points: 1160 |
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Alright, here's a couple pictures
I just want the right amount of hydraulic oil in system for these cylinders and I'm wanting to know the best method to do so... Thanks Matt ๐ |
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Hunt4Allis
Orange Level Joined: 13 Mar 2018 Location: Ohio Points: 1160 |
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Got all new hoses made from my local Napa.
Now to reassemble and get filled with oil( hopefully I don't over fill the system! |
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Dakota Dave
Orange Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: ND Points: 3960 |
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If you oil level is correct without the loader just raise the loader up as far as it will go and back down a couple times put the loader down and raise the Rams up and top it off it'll only take a quart to a quart and a half.
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mdm1
Orange Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Onalaska, WI Points: 2644 |
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On my WD-45 the rear rams go up before the loader goes up. Painfully slow. I would put a valve on the system right away. If you have ever used a full hydraulic loader you will be somewhat disappointed. Still better than lifting things by the ole back.
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Everything is impossible until someone does it! WD45-trip loader 1947 c w/woods belly mower, 1939 B, #3 sickle mower 1944 B, 2 1948 G's. Misc other equipment that my wife calls JUNK!
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Dakota Dave
Orange Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: ND Points: 3960 |
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On a CA you can pin the rear lift rams down. Pull the pin from the top of the ram move it to the other hole with the lift arms straight down the Rams will stay compressed. On my WD 45 I don't push the Rams down they stay up with nothing on them for wieght. Once the loader is lifted for the first time after start there is no delay unless I push the rear lift arms down with my foot. If using the allis Rams on the trip loader it should be fairly fast up and down. If your using low pressure generic Rams it'll be very slow.
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Hunt4Allis
Orange Level Joined: 13 Mar 2018 Location: Ohio Points: 1160 |
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Dakota Dave, I'm not sure if I can pin the rear lift Rams closed if that's what you mean, but I will look at them and see if I can see what you're talking about. By pinning them unusable does it help with operation being better for the trip loader cylinders?
I have no idea if my rams are low pressure or high pressure? Edited by Hunt4Allis - 04 Jun 2020 at 7:48pm |
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mdm1
Orange Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Onalaska, WI Points: 2644 |
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I guess I should have been clearer. Sorry. I will have a blade or something else on the rear rams alot of the time so they will go down from the weight. Most of the time for me it works better if I can isolate the front from the rear.
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Everything is impossible until someone does it! WD45-trip loader 1947 c w/woods belly mower, 1939 B, #3 sickle mower 1944 B, 2 1948 G's. Misc other equipment that my wife calls JUNK!
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Hunt4Allis
Orange Level Joined: 13 Mar 2018 Location: Ohio Points: 1160 |
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Thanks, I'm wondering if like what Dakota Dave is talking about would in a dumb way isolate (not use the rear rams if they're pinned a certain way) the system so that all the hydraulic fluid goes to front Rams of the trip loader bucket?
Edited by Hunt4Allis - 04 Jun 2020 at 7:47pm |
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Hunt4Allis
Orange Level Joined: 13 Mar 2018 Location: Ohio Points: 1160 |
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Got it completed and did it first little project on the farm (backfilled a new culvert)
It works even better than I had hoped! Thanks to everyone for your information helping me get this done... Next is cleaning up some hay behind the barn! |
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Hunt4Allis
Orange Level Joined: 13 Mar 2018 Location: Ohio Points: 1160 |
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Now I'm probably going to mount my brushog on back for counterbalance...
I may plumb in a switch to toggle between front/rear hydraulic now that I know I've got good pump, but for time being ( in theory)i may just raise bucket a couple feet off ground, uncouple the line that feeds it so every time I raise and lower hog bucket isn't doing same( just until the BH task is done) I know I got a diagram from someone on here on how to plumb this diverter in( need to see where I saved this info) thanks all Matt๐ |
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