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Hydraulic oil amount for trip loader(CA)

Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=171614
Printed Date: 26 Jan 2025 at 12:41am
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Topic: Hydraulic oil amount for trip loader(CA)
Posted By: Hunt4Allis
Subject: Hydraulic oil amount for trip loader(CA)
Date Posted: 29 May 2020 at 6:56pm
Just about got trip loader ready for first on my CA.
How do you get the right amount of hydraulic oil in tractor if I've emptied all hoses( brand new)
And dumped out oil from cylinders/ cleaned them
My tractors hydraulic fluid is where it needs to be when using just the rear lift Rams.
But now without cylinders/lines having any oil in them, how do I know what amount is correct?
On a side note I'm shocked that the cylinders just pulled apart into two pieces today, so it makes me wonder what stops them from extending too far when in use?



Replies:
Posted By: jaybmiller
Date Posted: 29 May 2020 at 8:57pm
On my D-14, you read the dip stick when th elift is fully up (ram extended). Now you 'could' read the manual as to how many quarts it is...I just glugged,glugged, checked, added more and the tractor was happy.....
I think the ram is just a ram, no 'piston' or end piece, same as D-14 ??so it will 'pop out' if really yanked on, normally seals will keep it from 'just' falling out.....


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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)

Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water


Posted By: MACK
Date Posted: 30 May 2020 at 6:58am
Should have a snapring on end to keep it from coming out.      MACK


Posted By: Hunt4Allis
Date Posted: 30 May 2020 at 7:21am
Hmmmm, no snap ring
I'm hoping that either mechanically or weight limited that it will stop the cylinder from completely coming apart when in use then...

the only seal is a simple o-ring on the end of the inside of the shaft that the cylinder slides into.

So with my hydraulic system already full just with the rear rams on it and all the hydraulic lines and cylinders empty what would be the best way to fill it? (I'm assuming once it's connected and I operate the lever to raise or lower the rear rams that oil will begin to flow into the empty lines and empty Rams and then I can just continue to add oil until the dipstick shows it's okay?)

Initially I don't plan on putting a diverter valve in, I will just use the front trip loader bucket operated by the valve handle on the tractors hydraulic unit (I know the rear Rams will go up and down at the same time as the front cylinders for the trip loader bucket)


Posted By: Hunt4Allis
Date Posted: 30 May 2020 at 7:45pm
Alright, here's a couple pictures



I just want the right amount of hydraulic oil in system for these cylinders and I'm wanting to know the best method to do so...
Thanks Matt ๐Ÿ‘


Posted By: Hunt4Allis
Date Posted: 03 Jun 2020 at 6:44pm
Got all new hoses made from my local Napa.
Now to reassemble and get filled with oil( hopefully I don't over fill the system!


Posted By: Dakota Dave
Date Posted: 04 Jun 2020 at 10:19am
If you oil level is correct without the loader just raise the loader up as far as it will go and back down a couple times put the loader down and raise the Rams up and top it off it'll only take a quart to a quart and a half.


Posted By: mdm1
Date Posted: 04 Jun 2020 at 11:22am
On my WD-45 the rear rams go up before the loader goes up. Painfully slow. I would put a valve on the system right away. If you have ever used a full hydraulic loader you will be somewhat disappointed. Still better than lifting things by the ole back.

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Everything is impossible until someone does it! WD45-trip loader 1947 c w/woods belly mower, 1939 B, #3 sickle mower 1944 B, 2 1948 G's. Misc other equipment that my wife calls JUNK!


Posted By: Dakota Dave
Date Posted: 04 Jun 2020 at 2:42pm
On a CA you can pin the rear lift rams down. Pull the pin from the top of the ram move it to the other hole with the lift arms straight down the Rams will stay compressed. On my WD 45 I don't push the Rams down they stay up with nothing on them for wieght. Once the loader is lifted for the first time after start there is no delay unless I push the rear lift arms down with my foot. If using the allis Rams on the trip loader it should be fairly fast up and down. If your using low pressure generic Rams it'll be very slow.


Posted By: Hunt4Allis
Date Posted: 04 Jun 2020 at 5:18pm
Dakota Dave, I'm not sure if I can pin the rear lift Rams closed if that's what you mean, but I will look at them and see if I can see what you're talking about. By pinning them unusable does it help with operation being better for the trip loader cylinders?
I have no idea if my rams are low pressure or high pressure?


Posted By: mdm1
Date Posted: 04 Jun 2020 at 6:14pm
I guess I should have been clearer. Sorry. I will have a blade or something else on the rear rams alot of the time so they will go down from the weight. Most of the time for me it works better if I can isolate the front from the rear. 

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Everything is impossible until someone does it! WD45-trip loader 1947 c w/woods belly mower, 1939 B, #3 sickle mower 1944 B, 2 1948 G's. Misc other equipment that my wife calls JUNK!


Posted By: Hunt4Allis
Date Posted: 04 Jun 2020 at 7:47pm
Thanks, I'm wondering if like what Dakota Dave is talking about would in a dumb way isolate (not use the rear rams if they're pinned a certain way) the system so that all the hydraulic fluid goes to front Rams of the trip loader bucket?


Posted By: Hunt4Allis
Date Posted: 05 Jun 2020 at 5:40pm
Got it completed and did it first little project on the farm (backfilled a new culvert)
It works even better than I had hoped!
Thanks to everyone for your information helping me get this done...
Next is cleaning up some hay behind the barn!


Posted By: Hunt4Allis
Date Posted: 05 Jun 2020 at 7:53pm
Now I'm probably going to mount my brushog on back for counterbalance...

I may plumb in a switch to toggle between front/rear hydraulic now that I know I've got good pump, but for time being ( in theory)i may just raise bucket a couple feet off ground, uncouple the line that feeds it so every time I raise and lower hog bucket isn't doing same( just until the BH task is done)
I know I got a diagram from someone on here on how to plumb this diverter in( need to see where I saved this info) thanks all
Matt๐Ÿ‘



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