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modirt 
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 Posted: 11 Aug 2025 at 5:32pm |
Had to quit early and unscheduled field trip all day tomorrow.
As stands now, drilled the hole thru cover above the bolt, and have been irrigating with PB blaster. Sitting under serious tension with driven in wedges above and below. If it doesn't give it up in a day or two, will pull out the Fein multitool and start hacking. Get on the edge of that bolt and ride it to the bottom.
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DiyDave
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Gambrills, MD
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Posted: 11 Aug 2025 at 4:27pm |
Thread and bolt a piece of steel to the bolts above and below the broken one, weld a piece of threaded steel to the bolted steel, the same size as will thread onto a slide hammer. slide hammer the cover off. this suggestion will only work if you have room for said slide hammer... 
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modirt
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Location: Missouri
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Posted: 11 Aug 2025 at 1:05pm |
More progress and hit yet another wall.
With the right puller, the big pulley walked right off just like harmonic balancer would.
As
feared, corrosion around that broken bolt may have the cover welded on
tight. I thought maybe if i got it freed on one side, I could wedge it
off. Is free on top, left side and bottom Entire right side is stuck
down tight. Have driven wedges in, banged on cover and bolt.....rise and
repeat......and no joy. It has hit the wall.
Trying
to free it around the fuel pump damaged the cover to point of no
return. It's toast. Have given thought to drilling a hole in the cover
to the bolt.......say 3/16" or so......then filling that with PB Blaster
and letting it soak a bit in hopes it might give it up......or just
quit the subtle stuff and get out a saw and start hacking it up.
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modirt
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Location: Missouri
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Posted: 09 Aug 2025 at 6:56am |
Not sure if time will permit any further progress will be made over the weekend.
Found this video of a guy facing similar problem. Same bolt. This is what I fear may be causing the stuck bolt problem. Corrosion.
Fast forward to around 5 min to get started. NO amount of prying was getting his cover free from that bolt. Seems like a design flaw.
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steve(ill)
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Posted: 08 Aug 2025 at 7:39pm |
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you knew they didnt put a special crank shaft in the motor with a 3 inch longer snout... Had to be an adaptor plate or something... Makes a lot more sence after you got it apart !
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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modirt
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Posted: 08 Aug 2025 at 5:05pm |
Got the big cap screw holding pulley on off and now appears to be
same boat as normal case of having to pull the harmonic
balancer.......except this pulley setup isn't normal. Have borrowed the loan of a
balancer pulling tool, but short bolts normally used doesn't work with
this pulley setup. Need to procure some much longer bolts in range of
3/8" x 3 1/2" fine thread......just to be able to reach the holes to
pull it off with. Apparently neat trick is to delete the big washer,
then put big cap screw back in and use that to push against. Whole unit
is supposed to slide past it. Will see.
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PaulB
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Rocky Ridge Md
Points: 5203
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Posted: 08 Aug 2025 at 2:24pm |
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For U-Joints: there is a "Fleetpride" Heavy truck parts place close to me that can match nearly anything. If they can't match it there is a Farm drivelines place that can.
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If it was fun to pull in LOW gear, I could have a John Deere.
Real pullers don't have speed limits.
If you can't make it GO... make it SHINY
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plummerscarin
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Joined: 22 Jun 2015
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Posted: 08 Aug 2025 at 1:20pm |
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Can be frustrating trying to figure something out and then the realization it is not that difficult once you understand the thing. Obviously, service manuals can be very important if you can even find one. Glad you got it apart. I see a set screw on the yoke. Does that hold it to a stub shaft? If so, now you can put some heat to it and separate those two pieces and make it more easy next time. If there is a next time.
Glad to see you’re making progress
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modirt
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Posted: 08 Aug 2025 at 12:39pm |
More progress.
After going over the pulley setup numerous times, concluded there HAD to be a seam somewhere, if only I could find it. No way to assemble it otherwise. Turns out the cap screws were only holding a plate on in front......not the entire pulley. Seam was on insider corner.
As it turns out, didn't need to do anything to pto shaft / yolk / u-joint. Just remove those 4 cap screws. Now I know. Now we all know. Next one will be easy.
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steve(ill)
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Posted: 07 Aug 2025 at 1:22pm |
I buy all my u-joints from these guys... Farm Store carries 2 sizes in the 30- 50 HP range.. These guys carry EVERYTHING and the adaptors... You just got to know the bearing OD and joint width...
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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modirt
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Posted: 07 Aug 2025 at 12:42pm |
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BTW, where does one go to get new crosses? I did know a guy........he could match anything.......but he up and died on us a while back and his shop is closed.
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modirt
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Posted: 07 Aug 2025 at 12:37pm |
Progress!!!
Went on a blood hunt and managed to find the ends of the clips......as suspected, both facing aft and hidden. But eventually got on the ends and they pooped off. One into the ether.......I heard it ping off metallic stuff 2 or 3 times, but it is gone.
About an hour later, had the cross out, and as suspected, the yolk was just keyed onto the shaft. Used a wheel puller and it didn't give it up easy. Was close to point breaking....tapped it a few times with hammer......tighten....tap......then came the big bang when it broke free.
This is where she sits now. Ran out of time and battery powered trouble light went dead at same time. But now off and running. Once those 4 cap screws are off, will know what's left to get this pulled apart.
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Ray54
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Posted: 07 Aug 2025 at 10:56am |
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In my experience it looks like the u joint could be removed by taking the cap screws out I see in the last picture. Very similar to the hydraulic drives on many things made in the same era. They have always been bolted to the flywheel pully.
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DiyDave
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Posted: 06 Aug 2025 at 3:49pm |
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Give one of the caps a smack with a medium size hammer. An O-ring pick can help rotate the SR into a visible position. Once you get 1 off, do the same thing on the other side...
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DonBC
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Posted: 06 Aug 2025 at 1:37pm |
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A failing coil could also be the problem. They can be warm but if they are getting warm or hot it is a sign that they are failing. When the get hot they can have a weak spark and worst case, no spark.
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Jack of all trades, master of none
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plummerscarin
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Posted: 06 Aug 2025 at 12:31pm |
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Yep, that’s it
Use a punch or screwdriver to drive on the end of the snap ring. It will either pop out or rotate. If if rotates, then switch to two punches or needle nose pliers and drive both ends simultaneously.
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modirt
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Posted: 06 Aug 2025 at 12:04pm |
Another view. Can see the bolt heads holding pulley on. This shaft comes off, may be home free.
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modirt
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Posted: 06 Aug 2025 at 12:00pm |
 plummerscarin wrote:
Pretty greasy there but think if you clean it some you would find circlips inside the yoke to be removed then push the caps out. |
Cleaned it up and you look to be right. These are what I suspect are the clips or snap rings.
And this is where the unskilled mechanic hits the wall. If there is an opening on any of these so you can pry them off, I've not found it. Opening may be facing aft out of sight and just can't see them, but also had no luck rotating the clip to get it to show it's pretty face.
I have worked with the external clips and if this was off the shaft an on a bench, could probably defeat this one too. But until then........
Once these are off, have concluded will be good idea to replace both crosses anyway. Aside from engine propelling machine around the field and up and down the road, all the rest of the functions run off the small hydraulic pump this shaft powers. Machine is helpless without it. And it would only break down with hay in the field. Not a good time to be fixing anything. Cheap insurance while it's apart anyway.
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DiyDave
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Posted: 06 Aug 2025 at 4:44am |
Use your induction heater on the PTO shaft... Them are handy things!
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SteveM C/IL
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Posted: 05 Aug 2025 at 10:31pm |
plummerscarin wrote:
Pretty greasy there but think if you clean it some you would find circlips inside the yoke to be removed then push the caps out. |
agree on the internal clips
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plummerscarin
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Posted: 05 Aug 2025 at 5:41pm |
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Pretty greasy there but think if you clean it some you would find circlips inside the yoke to be removed then push the caps out.
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modirt
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Posted: 05 Aug 2025 at 2:16pm |
It may be possible to run flat bar stock thru the U-joint yoke, then use a bolt / bar stock / flat washer / nut.......one on each side......to gently push it off. Worth a try. You would be pushing on the yoke's cross, so may damage that to the point it has to be replaced, but so be it.
What holds pulley on is unknown. Behind the U-joint are for 3/8" bolts going aft towards the engine, so I assume there is a flange of some type behind / under it holding it in place. Like fan belt pulley? Then expect that to also be held on by the usual big bolt they use to hold the harmonic balancer in place. Remove the bolt, pull the flange and maybe that would do it?
Had hoped to avoid removing timing chain cover, but may be best after all. From dates, it is mismatched to the block anyway and appears to be showing some corrosion. Also need to get it off to chase threads on the block so that can run bolts back in good condition threads. Also won't hurt to get a peek at unknown condition of timing chain and gear. Clean out all the gang green and build back better?
Not happy to be doing all that, but willing to if it makes things better. Just pain in the hinny when it wants to fight with you every step of the way.
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steve(ill)
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Posted: 05 Aug 2025 at 1:38pm |
normally the pulleys on "most" engines are retained by a bolt in the end of the crank.. What holds your pulley onto the shaft ? Possible to pull the pulley off and bring the shaft with it ?... Could you put a rectangular bar thru the U joint by the cross, that has a pusher bolt hole on each side, and screw down agains the pulley to push the joint OUT ?
some type of slide hammer attached to the shaft between the two u joints... and then slam with the hammer to shock the shaft out ?
Edited by steve(ill) - 05 Aug 2025 at 1:40pm
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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modirt
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Posted: 05 Aug 2025 at 12:26pm |
No progress at all on the broken stud. Have concluded it all needs
to come off. Started with PTO shaft this morning and front end popped
right off. Rear end......the part in front of pulley.......is stuck
tight. If it is same as front, and it looks to be......is keyed onto the
shaft and held there by set screw. But is locked tight from fit, corrosion or all the above. Can't pry it
off and won't even slide back on further if you whack it with a hammer.
Last U-joint like this I wrestled with was off a hay rake and we managed to pull
the shaft out of the rake, take it to a bench, heat it with a torch and
eventually drive it off with a hammer. Considering all the grease, oil
on engine and that rig is parked in a pole barn full of equipment and
loose hay, not wanting to get a fire going on front of engine . So torch
option last resort.
If the U-joint could be
taken apart, might be able to get wheel puller on it (and on the belt
pulley), but see no way to get the cross out of that joint to take it
apart. All 4 cap ends for the cross appear solid. Really hoping to not
destroy the U-joint.
Any ideas? (currently being doused with penetrating oil pending better ideas).
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TedN
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Posted: 24 Jul 2025 at 12:55pm |
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Without seeing the whole cylinder this is just speculation, but maybe it is mounted incorrectly. That may be as far as the cylinder retracts, but you may be hitting the steering stop before it is fully extended. If it were me, I would pop the end loose from the steering arm and cycle it fully as a first step. You may just need to move the rear mounting point.
Glad to hear you have your hot start issue figured out.
Ted
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190XTD seriesIII, 190XTD seriesI, maroon belly 7000, 190XTD series??? project(or maybe parts)
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modirt
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Posted: 24 Jul 2025 at 11:55am |
And while we are at it, here is another issue. Has power steering,
turns left OK, but does not turn same to the right. Turn radius to the
right might be 150 feet or so. At a T intersection, always concerned it
will end up in the opposite road ditch or field on other side before it
will turn down the road.
Looking for problems,
I now see the steering cylinder has a hard stop on the shaft. Why would
that be there? Either mismatched cylinder pulled from another use or
maybe if it retracts too far it hits something? Once she is running
again, will have to look to see if that is a problem. As is, using less than half the throw of the piston when trying to retract to turn right.
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modirt
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Posted: 24 Jul 2025 at 11:40am |
Not much progress on the bolt, except new plan to attack it. Have now added an induction heater to stable to tools. Have had more than one guy who turns wrenches for a living tell me that is what they use to free stuck bolts. For lack of a better way to explain it, seems to work like a microwave oven or some such........a coil is placed over end of the bolt and when you hit the on switch, energy waves are directed towards center of the coil (like a loose coil spring), with bolt positioned in the center. Some show it heating to read hot in a matter of seconds. No open flame as a torch or welder. Anyway, going to heat it up, let it cool and bang on it. Do that a couple times and hopefully bolt gives it up.
Interesting that I've now watched dozens of youtube videos of guys working on front end of these old 318 motors and that very same bolt is problem for 99% of them. Generally it gets broken (as mine was), then drama follows as guys figure out ways to get it out.
It may be a major design flaw. In normal use, carbon steel bolt passes thru steel alternator mounting bracket 1, then steel alternator mounting bracket 2, then aluminum water pump housing, then aluminum timing chain cover, then into thread in cast iron block (held in place by some nasty sealant), where tip of bolt is then exposed to some form of coolant cocktail. If for some reason, stray current finds it's way from alternator frame or electrical system you could have no telling what in terms of corrosion from dissimilar metals and all the rest. Bolt just gets chemically welded into place. Don't know if there is a non-metalic bolt tough enough for that duty, but would be worth looking into.
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DiyDave
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Posted: 17 Jul 2025 at 4:43am |
modirt wrote:
Quick update......with new replacement alternator, pulled the old one and was ready to install new........instantly ran into trouble. The lower, main support OEM alternator bracket is held in place by either two or three bolts......depending on the age and style of water pump......but that braket and the bracket to tension it is held one by only one bolt. One of 7 that holds the water pump in place. The key one.......the one that has to be used.......was found to have been snapped off inside the water pump housing. That bolt passes thru bracket, bracket, water pump, timing chain cover, then screws into the block.....and the end of it is open to coolant. So to install, a good thread sealant has to be used. No telling now many youtube videos there are documenting removal of that snapped off bolt. Now my turn to figure it out. Has been soaking in penetrating oil for days. Trying hard not to snap it off again as that would require removal of timing chain cover. Exciting times.
Next question.........I now have 3 or 4 of these long bolts out, and hopefully 4th and final is coming out with no drama. I normally would plan to chase the threads in engine block with an oiled tap before putting bolts back. Problem being my 3/8" tap appears to be damaged (won't go into a matching nut without binding) and not long enough to reach thru the timing chain cover to get to the threads in the block anyway. Might be that the nut is not made to the standard of the tap. All that means it you're cutting more thread, and that particular nut would fit a little looser...
Do they make a longer than standard tap with 4 inch or so shank? If so, what is now a good brand to buy? What I have now are Blue Point, which as I understand it was an economy line of tools sold by Snap On. I may be able to buy Irwin or Hanson locally. Anything else to consider? Try Mcmaster-carr, link below... |
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Acguywill
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Posted: 16 Jul 2025 at 11:15pm |
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If you just want to clean the threads take a grinder and cut a groove or two through the threads of a bolt that is long enough to reach. I have done lots of times. Simple cheap and don't have to worry about damaging a tap.
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modirt
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Posted: 16 Jul 2025 at 3:32pm |
As she sits now.........that big 4 belt pulley is in place of a harmonic balancer. Have no clue how that is being held in place.......and no desire to find out. But if that bolt gets snapped, I get to find out.
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