Hey guys I am a new member and I need help.

Hey Pete, I'm in Bangor right on the Delaware river. 

Looks like a magneto on right side photo. WD45's use a mag? I am not an expert on those earlier tractors, but I would have thought a 45 to be new enough to have a point/distributor/coil ignition system. My point is I guess, that it may have an older WD engine in it anyway. 

Welcome!

Okay, first- some observations:
Magneto...   Don't think that was a WD-45 part, but could have been changed.  I like magnetos... and I'm sure I'm not alone.

Does the engine block have a big flat steel plate on one side?  If so, the engine is a WC or WD, not a WD-45.

Rear end has lift arms- that means WD or later.

Glove on seat means your left hand is cold.

I wouldn't be the least bit surprised if you have a mix-match of componentry... that's not unusual for a working loader-tractor.

Prior to moving it, I have some suggestions:

1) Pull all the wheel weights.  Unbolt them.  I'd say... once unbolted, pull 'em far enough to the sides so they'll be out-of-the-way.  At that point, make sure they're well-marked, so you don't hit 'em with a mower or something.  Don't drag 'em out of the woods- instead, plan on goin' to get 'em with the tractor once you get it back in operation.

2) Put a big catch-pan under the transmission, and pull the tranny drain plugs.  Most likely, exposure has defeated the shifter boot, and water has filled the transmission... and right now, it's probably ice.  You'll want several warm days to get it all thawed out, otherwise you'll break something trying to pull it out.  Once you're sure it's all thawed and drained, refill with oil.

3) Cut some 2x4's, or something else to stick around the loader's lift cylinders.  Take a farm jack and some long prybars, also a ratchet-strap or two.  Ratchet-strap the hydraulic valves to the 'drop' position (might take some experimenting), and then jack up the bucket high enough so that you can stick the prop-rods in, and hold the bucket up.  If the cylinders simply won't move, you'll need to pull one of the cylinder pins, and swing it up and block it.

4) Saw out any tree limbs, etc., saplings, etc, that may be in the way.

5) Strap the steering wheel in the 'straight ahead' position.  Take a portable compressor down and pump up the tires.  Front tires will probably be unhappy... the rears don't look too bad, so they might be fine, or hopefully at least hold air well enough to get by 'till later. Hopefully you're lucky.

6) Introduce yourselves to your neighbors, and find one with an equal sized tractor with a 3-point hitch.   Have the neighbor hook on, lift with the 3-point, and pull the Allis out of the forest, and roll it into your driveway, in a convenient spot to unhook the loader.  Unhook loader, then have neighbor push the Allis into the shop. 

Next, either buy a set of 'car roller' casters for the front end, or make some out of 2x4's and strong casters.  The rears won't be so easy, but can be made with lumber and bigger casters, so you can move it around in the shop without making a big investment in tires. You NEED to be able to scoot it around without dumping your operating budget in rubber.  Another way to do it, is to find a set of serviceable tires and slap'em on so it's at least towable.

As far as everything else goes, I think what I would do, is cut the time-losses and immediately look around for a good-running WC/WD/WD45 or Gleanor E motor, and put it in.  Once running, assess the driveline condition, solve any major problems there, get it running/driveable, then chain and drag the weights up to the shop, get 'em mounted.  Mount up the loader, get it working (probably hydraulic lines, fluid, mebbie some seals and cylinder TLC), and then put it back to work.  Once you have a functioning loader, then decide what to do about the current engine. They're not hard to rebuild, as long as the block hasn't been all cracked-up, it'll be a nice winter project in a warm, well lighted shop.




Edited by DaveKamp - 20 Feb 2011 at 1:30pm

hey, you're not very far from me.  about 13 miles from my house to the jacktown grove.  i'm a member there.  nice find.  if you've got any questions, let me know.  i'd be glad to stop over.  alan

It looked like the shifter boot was intact in the pics. It can still get water from condensation though. If the tires are flat you might try airing them up. I don't know if I'd go through the trouble of pulling them off. Depending on your area, they might not be there when you return. Pull it up to the shop and dig in...

Couldn't help but post a few pictures, hope your tractor work goes as well as mine did. Two years and loving every minute I have spent on this project!

Sagar welcome to the form! Glad to see you have the excitement building! Just be careful this can grow into an addiction! Next thing you know you'll be looking at every tree line for tractors! Then you have 4-5 more sitting. Looks like it has a 3 point conversion also! Good luck with it!!

wd45 for sure. if you ever need to find out if one is a wd or a wd45 just look at the gear shifter. if it is curved its a wd45 and if it is strait up its a wd.

acwdwcman, The curved shifter along with the constant mesh transmission was introduced in the WD prior to the introduction of the WD45.
Dave, you missed a picture. Here is the one that clearly shows the hand clutch. I was trying to determine if there were extra things on it related to the rock clutch.

 I think the hydraulic system is intact, someone just added a bigger reservoir and 2 way valves and cylinders.

Jacob thanks for the link it is very helpful and as far as the two straps on the rear lift arm...I have no clue..lol

DaveKamp,

Thad in AR,