Hard starting 7010

Make sure the injectors are in correctly, the return line must be on the valve cover side, they start and run like crap if they are in 1/2 turn off.

Please try to start it like this and I think you'll possibly see more improvement. Leave the throttle at dead slow idle. Leave the fuel knob IN. Turn on the key and start cranking the engine over for 5 seconds and then slowly pull out on the fuel knob.

I always like to know why.....in this case I believe that slow introduction of fuel spray takes less heat out of the compressed air to help it ignite.  Correct?

An intake manifold air heater, like the 190 has,could be added to the tractor. It would certainly help starting issues on relatively cool temperatures.

Everyone is entitled to their opinion. A quote from a D-21 Owners manual on page 20. Same wording is also in a 1969 One-Eighty book:  In warm temperatures ABOVE 60 degrees, the engine should start after a short cranking period. If it does not start after 10 seconds of cranking, wait a minute or two before trying again to prevent overheating of the starting motor. If the engine doesn't start after 3 attempts, the cause should be determined. In cooler temperatures BELOW 60 degrees, use of the manifold air heater will aid in the starting. The air heater is used to warm the air in the intake manifold prior to cranking the engine. Operate the air heater for 45 seconds and then crank the engine to start. If it doesn't start, you may need to do this procedure again. An optional ether start system is available for quick starts in all temperatures.     Now, while in this case (a 7020) I tend to agree with you, there are some facts that need to be understood.    #1. you can own three identical tractors and all three of them may COLD start equally, or all three might be different. #2. Enjoy how a new diesel tractor starts when cold. It's the best it will ever be. From the first 100 hrs on, it is a very slow descent to harder and harder cold starting, as the cranking compression of the engine gets to be less and less. They still run fine when started, but it's the initial cold start heat creation to burn the fuel that decreases. Just a fact of diesel engine life. An engine with 350 psi cranking compression will NOT start like one with 390 psi of compression.  #3.  An engine with 16 to 1 compression will always start better than a 15 to 1 compression engine. A 7020 is 15 to 1. A 6080 is 14 to 1 on early models. Modern engines are 17 to 1 or even more.   #4. Grinding valves and seats always makes these engines start harder because the valves are sunk into the head deeper making cranking compression lower. New valves and seats set to the minimum valve recession is thee best for cold starts.   #5. Been my experience that injectors set at lower specs pressures start better when cold. Like 3400 psi instead of 3850 psi as an example.   6. Some people just don't like to use the block heater or ether and prefer to grind away on the starter.       So, the long and short of it is, not all engines start like we think they should and there are MANY reasons why this is.

Edited by DrAllis - 06 Jan 2024 at 7:12am

Glad to hear you're getting along better. Winter time is tough on cold starts for sure.