Gotta do an in-frame on my XTD

I knew this would happen. A couple months ago I talked up my 190 XT diesel about how good it started in the cold when the engine heater quit working (It has a lower radiator hose type heater on it). Well, I said that since I bragged about, something bad would probably happen to it, and it did. About a day after replacing the lower rad heater, anti-freeze showed up in the oil. Anyway, I finally got it into the shop in town, and turns out that the #2 sleeve is leaking, it has some pitting. I've decided to put in all 6 since it's apart anyway, sleeves, pistons, and bearings. The shop owner is an A & I dealer, so that's the kit he'll probably want to use. Does anyone have any goods, bads, or otherwise to share with me on this project before I dive in to it? The engine ran perfectly fine and didn't burn any oil prior to this, so I don't think I need to pull the engine and do a complete. My theory is that it sat unused by the previous owner for too long. I just bought the tractor this last summer, and probably put about 300 hrs on it prior to this. Previous owner said that it had a complete rebuild a few years ago, but didn't get used much at all since the rebuild. I know that there has been some talk on here about rebuilding 2900's and using higher comp. pistons and such, so any advice would be greatly appreciated. Sorry for rambling on so long, Thanks, Darrel

The A&I kits are Richland, (made in USA) :-) .  We have used several from different suppliers including manufacturers (agco, jd, etc), and the A&I stuff is good as any....

Check the date stamping on the bearings when you take it apart.  The previous owner said he had just rebuilt my 7000 about 1000 hours before I bought it due to cavitation, which would have put it at an inframe at 4000 hours.  Well, I rebuilt the engine 2 summers ago and the rod and main bearings were dated late 1978 and the tractor is a 79... so I have a hard time believing that he put 4000 hours on it in less than a couple years and used an older kit. 

As for high compression, it will help it start at colder temperatures.  As far as I know, there are only two companies that make high compression kits.  One is Power Max, which is where I got my kit (all parts are major brands or house parts made in the USA and it is very competitively priced).  The second is Herschel Adams, which is the company that reproduces the old M&W design kit, but hang onto your wallet.  I think Valu-bilt sells these kits, so that will give you an idea of the price, but if my memory is correct, it was over 2grand for any type of overhaul kit (in or out frame).  I'm not 100% sure on this, but there is speculation that the Herschel Adams kit uses a different style top ring that helps improve compression at slower speeds.  I will say that since I have rebuilt the engine, I also got the Lucas starter rebuilt with a new armature and the whole kit and cabootle, and that one investment has made the biggest differenc in starting in cold temperatures.  My Dad claims he just has to tap the starter button before the engine fires up.

Hurst

I would pull the motor and do a complete since you are putting sleeves.Take it all the way down wash the block inside and out get all the old crud out. Clean the sleeve area at bottom until new sleeves drop in without orings. Then check for eroded places in block. I always cut a third oring grove in new sleeve between the other two and use another black oring.     MACK

I have seen some cheap overhaul kits have the sleeves pit all the way through in just a couple years, where I have some old original 210 sleeves that have very minor pitting. I think the metal they are cast with makes the difference, of maybe a coating on the outside of the sleeves. A water filter should be added for good measure, and of course use good water in the coolant. I buy the peak 50/50 premix from Oreilly on sale for about the same price as straight anti-freeze.