Gotta do an in-frame on my XTD
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Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=25956
Printed Date: 25 Feb 2025 at 5:58pm
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Topic: Gotta do an in-frame on my XTD
Posted By: darrel in ND
Subject: Gotta do an in-frame on my XTD
Date Posted: 19 Feb 2011 at 9:00am
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I knew this would happen. A couple months ago I talked up my 190 XT diesel about how good it started in the cold when the engine heater quit working (It has a lower radiator hose type heater on it). Well, I said that since I bragged about, something bad would probably happen to it, and it did. About a day after replacing the lower rad heater, anti-freeze showed up in the oil. Anyway, I finally got it into the shop in town, and turns out that the #2 sleeve is leaking, it has some pitting. I've decided to put in all 6 since it's apart anyway, sleeves, pistons, and bearings. The shop owner is an A & I dealer, so that's the kit he'll probably want to use. Does anyone have any goods, bads, or otherwise to share with me on this project before I dive in to it? The engine ran perfectly fine and didn't burn any oil prior to this, so I don't think I need to pull the engine and do a complete. My theory is that it sat unused by the previous owner for too long. I just bought the tractor this last summer, and probably put about 300 hrs on it prior to this. Previous owner said that it had a complete rebuild a few years ago, but didn't get used much at all since the rebuild. I know that there has been some talk on here about rebuilding 2900's and using higher comp. pistons and such, so any advice would be greatly appreciated. Sorry for rambling on so long, Thanks, Darrel
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Replies:
Posted By: wi50
Date Posted: 19 Feb 2011 at 9:19am
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I rember reading about that.
I would just have the head checked out for proper valve protrusion/recession. But if it starts so well, it's probably correct or the head was done earlier. None the less it's cheap insurance to have someone familular with the heads to inspect it. And as long as injectors are out it's good practice to test them or have a diesel shop test them. Our guy here is pretty good about it and doesn't rob anyone or fix un necessary items.
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"see what happens when you have no practical experience doing something...... you end up playing with calculators and looking stupid on the internet"
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Posted By: Slade (TN)
Date Posted: 19 Feb 2011 at 10:18am
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The A&I kits are Richland, (made in USA) :-) . We have used several from different suppliers including manufacturers (agco, jd, etc), and the A&I stuff is good as any....
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Posted By: AdamA
Date Posted: 19 Feb 2011 at 11:24am
I buy my engine kits from Dons Diesel they are clevite and made in the US, had really good luck also they sell the M&W high performance kit for the 2900 also.
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57'D-17,78'185,83'6080,76'7040,84'8030 FWA.02'Dodge cummins
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Posted By: Hurst
Date Posted: 19 Feb 2011 at 12:16pm
Check the date stamping on the bearings when you take it apart. The previous owner said he had just rebuilt my 7000 about 1000 hours before I bought it due to cavitation, which would have put it at an inframe at 4000 hours. Well, I rebuilt the engine 2 summers ago and the rod and main bearings were dated late 1978 and the tractor is a 79... so I have a hard time believing that he put 4000 hours on it in less than a couple years and used an older kit.
As for high compression, it will help it start at colder temperatures. As far as I know, there are only two companies that make high compression kits. One is Power Max, which is where I got my kit (all parts are major brands or house parts made in the USA and it is very competitively priced). The second is Herschel Adams, which is the company that reproduces the old M&W design kit, but hang onto your wallet. I think Valu-bilt sells these kits, so that will give you an idea of the price, but if my memory is correct, it was over 2grand for any type of overhaul kit (in or out frame). I'm not 100% sure on this, but there is speculation that the Herschel Adams kit uses a different style top ring that helps improve compression at slower speeds. I will say that since I have rebuilt the engine, I also got the Lucas starter rebuilt with a new armature and the whole kit and cabootle, and that one investment has made the biggest differenc in starting in cold temperatures. My Dad claims he just has to tap the starter button before the engine fires up.
Hurst
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1979 Allis Chalmers 7000
5800 Hours
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Posted By: ALinIL
Date Posted: 19 Feb 2011 at 6:12pm
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Darrell - Just a note on any sleeve kit make sure the sleeve to head interference is adhered to or you will have head gasket problems. - AL
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Posted By: MACK
Date Posted: 19 Feb 2011 at 10:01pm
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I would pull the motor and do a complete since you are putting sleeves.Take it all the way down wash the block inside and out get all the old crud out. Clean the sleeve area at bottom until new sleeves drop in without orings. Then check for eroded places in block. I always cut a third oring grove in new sleeve between the other two and use another black oring. MACK
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Posted By: Hurst
Date Posted: 19 Feb 2011 at 10:17pm
Mack brings up a good point. It would be really hard to get that bottom bore cleaned up like it needs to be with the bloc in the tractor. If you have a sleeve that has electrolysis all the way through, I would venture to guess you will need to do some minor resurfacing with JB weld on the bottom bore to smooth out some pitting so the O-rings can seal against a flat surface. That's a lot easier to do with the bare block on an engine stand where you can work from the top and bottom side without having the climb all over the place. Just something to consider.
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1979 Allis Chalmers 7000
5800 Hours
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Posted By: injpumpEd
Date Posted: 20 Feb 2011 at 9:09am
I have seen some cheap overhaul kits have the sleeves pit all the way through in just a couple years, where I have some old original 210 sleeves that have very minor pitting. I think the metal they are cast with makes the difference, of maybe a coating on the outside of the sleeves. A water filter should be added for good measure, and of course use good water in the coolant. I buy the peak 50/50 premix from Oreilly on sale for about the same price as straight anti-freeze.
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210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers!
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