Gleaner K, Pics and more Questions

Dmpaul89 wrote: You guys sure it can't just be put in nuetral?? And use a dolly? It's just a gear transmission

I  tried to pull one of my E's backwards, one wheel spinned the other direction. I too thought its just a gear jammer, put it in neutral. Didn't work. Pulled on grass about 50 feet and it was o.k. then hit gravel...bang...twisted the axle. Welded it in place, if I had to do it again I would have fabbed up a coupler like on the newer combines. I'd trailer it, Trev. 

find a dude that has a trailer made to haul them big self propelled sprayers, or those swathers, those pull behind a pickup good.

shameless (ne) wrote: just to burst yer bubble a little....an N6 combine with 27 ft header and a header trailer just sold in OK.....for $2200. you could have paid for that combine with the first custom job prolly! whew!

Well that makes me about sick....

Edited by CrestonM - 18 Aug 2016 at 8:10am

CrestonM wrote: Well I drove the combine today. I drove it around, but there are 3 problems.  1. Header will not raise/lower. 2. Variable speed does not work. (still drives good in all gears, but can't vary speed within the gears) 3. Separator will not engage. Is that some kind of a clutch? It seems like it's stuck. It just lugs the engine down and nothing moves.  Pics to come!! Also...S/N is 3511, making it a first year 1969!

It sounds like the hydraulic valves that operate the header & variable speed may have frozen up from sitting idle too long. This is a common issue. When the machine is operated, the hydraulic system builds up heat. When the machine is shut down, it cools down. In colder late season harvests, a more rapid cool down allows for larger condensation to accumulate inside hydraulics(valves, reservoir, pump, etc). This condensation moisture can freeze up & crack valves, ruin seals, plus simply corrode components.
Try unhooking the hydraulic valve's control rods at valve plunger, then using some spray lubricant, a hammer, & a channel lock, tap& pry valve plunger in & out, until it moves freely. Re-install each control rod & try it. On a 1969 model K, these hydraulic valve bodies may be positioned back under engine radiator by hydraulic pump assy or they may be up under operators console right below levers?

The separator clutch issue is also a common thing from sitting idle too long. Sometimes the rattle chain will be rusted in position? There is a rattle chain clean out access panel up under cylinder throat that should be opened & cleaned of grain, chaff, dirt, etc at the end of each season. This area also allows access to the rattle chain's idler pulleys. Lift header to aid removal of this access panel. Also check that all rotating items(augers, elevators, walkers, fans, etc move freely. If separator clutch is held by any frozen up items & engines pulls down long enough it may smoke the clutch linings and/or burn up the main drive belt.

Ok. Hydraulic valves need to move a full range in each direction. Also, engine needs to be running at high idle. Hydraulics will not work or be sluggish at medium rpms.
If those all check out, then start looking for some hydraulic flow issue ( reservoir low on hydraulic ATF, hydraulic filter clogged, hydraulic siphon hose flacked off inside & clogged, hydraulic pump belt not tight, crankshaft belts that drive pto shaft may be slipping, hydraulic flow control valve blockage or bad, hydraulic pump may be bad)???

Good luck. Depending on your findings, the $1000 sell price may be lowering...

TREVMAN wrote: Looked at your post again...If you don't have header movement or variable speed, I wonder if you have any hydro power at all...Maybe just low on oil, Trev.

Edited by CrestonM - 18 Aug 2016 at 9:55pm

TREVMAN wrote: Didn't dude say "field ready"? All those things can be dealt with, but I'd take $500 cash and not pay much more. Neat little combine but just like my 2 E's, there is very little demand/interest in a machine that size. Trev.

Surprisingly the chains have some wiggle to them. I'm going to spray them and then brush thick oil on them and see what happens. 

looks to me like you were driving around looking for a place to get stuck? and that thing is NOT field ready, looking at the pics, it has sat along time, prolly both inside and outside. when I bought my "K" 15 years ago, it was on a dealers lot on consignment, paid $1500. it with all new tires, bearings, belts, chains, a 13 ft floating cutter bar with hume reel, and a 238 orange corn head. delivered! it is still not a bad looking combine, and with some TLC can be re-born again! I would not pay $1000. for this machine. $500 at the very most.  

My uncle has a cherry low houred late model K for sale. $2,000 would take it. Otherwise it will be at the Hamilton Auction in Dexter MN the 27th of August. I would have snapped it up myself but don't have the shed room. It's really too nice not to have under cover.

On edit I think the sale is actually Labor Day


Edited by Lonn - 19 Aug 2016 at 10:06am

I don't mind working on it to get it running. What would you guys say it's worth? I'm getting the feeling $500 is too much, based on what several people have said.

Edited by CrestonM - 19 Aug 2016 at 7:25am