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Gleaner K, Pics and more Questions

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Topic: Gleaner K, Pics and more Questions
Posted By: CrestonM
Subject: Gleaner K, Pics and more Questions
Date Posted: 15 Aug 2016 at 6:27pm
Going to look at a slick barn kept K for $1,000 OBO, supposedly runs great. If I buy it, what size deck will it fit on? 
Thanks!

P.S.- If I buy it I'll need a grain platform for it. It has a pickup header right now, and I have no use for that, so I'm open to selling it or trading for a platform.
Are the K headers specific to a K, or will something else fit, like say from a C, CII, E, G, F, etc?



Replies:
Posted By: TREVMAN
Date Posted: 15 Aug 2016 at 7:07pm
I move my E gleaner on a 8 x 24 deck over. Pull with 1 ton crew cab dually gmc. K is basically same size machine. Figure on 10000 lbs. I believe an E head can be made to fit a K, you will need the pipe on the header for the hooks to lift/attach. As well the drive is different on the K from the E, you have to do some fab.  The other heads you mentioned do not fit. You may want to purchase road permits for width and measure your overall height and check your route for over pass height. Good luck, Trev.


Posted By: CrestonM
Date Posted: 15 Aug 2016 at 7:19pm
Thanks! It's a mostly rural route, with no overpasses, so we should be good there. Also, farm machinery is exempt from permits in Oklahoma I believe.
If I do buy it, I'm hoping I can find a grain head soon, as I'd like to combine with it next summer!


Posted By: TREVMAN
Date Posted: 15 Aug 2016 at 7:42pm
Buy a windrower, or what we call up here a "swather", more fun and problem solved Creston lol. ( a 15 foot would be plenty for a K)Remember, post pics, Trev.


Posted By: CrestonM
Date Posted: 15 Aug 2016 at 8:02pm
We call 'em swathers too!
I'll post pics when I go to see it.


Posted By: Johnwilson_osf
Date Posted: 15 Aug 2016 at 8:30pm
Creston,
We had a K and a K2.  Our K2 came with a 10ft grain head.  The K2 came with a 13 or 15 foot grain head.  Not sure which, it has been a while.  But the K handled that large head with no problem. 

John


-------------
Allis Express: Eastern PA on Rt 80
8050, 8010, 6080, 190, D14, DA 6035, AA 6690, 5650, Gleaner F2


Posted By: CrestonM
Date Posted: 15 Aug 2016 at 9:17pm
What kind of bpa were you getting?
Were you cutting wheat?


Posted By: CrestonM
Date Posted: 15 Aug 2016 at 10:45pm
Never mind...I won't  need a header after all! Just a reel and sickle.
That should be easier to come up with than a whole header. 


Posted By: shameless (ne)
Date Posted: 16 Aug 2016 at 12:16am
headers are still abundant for the "K"s, I have the 13 ft on my "K" and it handled 5 rows of soybeans just fine. I also have a 238 CH and a 330 CH. have run 200+bu/acre with the 3 row, going slower than most prolly do, but most all the grain went in the tank!   I've never run wheat or oats thru mine. I think some headers off the "F"s also would fit on the "K"s too.


Posted By: allisguy.11
Date Posted: 16 Aug 2016 at 7:45am
MAKE SURE you put a strap around the unload auger to hold it back when you stop the truck.... ask me how I know....


Posted By: shameless (ne)
Date Posted: 16 Aug 2016 at 8:24am
oh...yeah....X2 what allisguy says...I forgot about that! whew!


Posted By: CrestonM
Date Posted: 16 Aug 2016 at 8:44am
Good to know, I probably wouldn't have though about that!


Posted By: CrestonM
Date Posted: 16 Aug 2016 at 8:45am
Let's see now...should I drive it 150 miles to the ranch, or find someone to haul it...
Right now I'm leaning towards the latter.


Posted By: Michael V (NM)
Date Posted: 16 Aug 2016 at 9:50am
when ya go look, take a tape measure..but I think a K should fit on a 102" trailer easily, without the head.


Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 16 Aug 2016 at 9:53am
Depends how hard a dollar is to come by for you. Check tire pressures,all fluids,and jack up back wheels and spin em for wheel brg check.Lot easier to repack before leaving than along roadside in middle of nowhere.Gas it and go!Take wrench to adjust toe in.Off much can be SOB to drive.


Posted By: AC7060IL
Date Posted: 16 Aug 2016 at 10:18am
The gleaner K is a great little machine. Trailer it home, if possible. If driving, count on 15 mph, stops, for speed. Actual speed maybe figure closer to 12mph?

Before you buy & drive, a few biggies to check for
- good brakes, (two wheel & one transmission)
- proper variable speed control of transmission,
- equal tire pressures,
- hydraulic fluid level,
- engine coolant level.

The real PIA things that can happen while driving an older gleaner that has not been run in years are;
- hydraulic pump drive belt fails. If this happens, you loose hydraulic steering & variable speed of transmission. Replacing this belt requires loosing front engine's pto shaft's 2 mount bearings, plus loosing dual fan belts that drive pto shaft & removing grain tank unloader drive belt.
- water pumps fails. O'Reillys have an inexpensive industrial Gm250 pump. Hint, it's is not the same water pump as early 1970's GM C10 pickups, which have a shorter shaft housing...
- alternator goes out. Have a spare ready to light flashers and some night driving.


Posted By: AC7060IL
Date Posted: 16 Aug 2016 at 10:19am
Loosening, not loosing. LOL


Posted By: CrestonM
Date Posted: 16 Aug 2016 at 10:41am
Originally posted by AC7060IL AC7060IL wrote:

The gleaner K is a great little machine. Trailer it home, if possible. If driving, count on 15 mph, stops, for speed. Actual speed maybe figure closer to 12mph?

Before you buy & drive, a few biggies to check for
- good brakes, (two wheel & one transmission)
- proper variable speed control of transmission,
- equal tire pressures,
- hydraulic fluid level,
- engine coolant level.

The real PIA things that can happen while driving an older gleaner that has not been run in years are;
- hydraulic pump drive belt fails. If this happens, you loose hydraulic steering & variable speed of transmission. Replacing this belt requires loosing front engine's pto shaft's 2 mount bearings, plus loosing dual fan belts that drive pto shaft & removing grain tank unloader drive belt.
- water pumps fails. O'Reillys have an inexpensive industrial Gm250 pump. Hint, it's is not the same water pump as early 1970's GM C10 pickups, which have a shorter shaft housing...
- alternator goes out. Have a spare ready to light flashers and some night driving.

Thanks!! I know nothing about driving a Gleaner like this, so I guess I need to get a manual first, if I buy the combine. Getting pretty excited about going to see it later this week. 
Here's a pic of the operator's station (Look! It has music! LOL) I understand the obvious foot controls, and I see the throttle and the gear shift, and I think the other lever is the variable speed and header lift, right? Forward for faster, back for slower, and up and down for lift action? When you say proper variable speed action, do you just mean it changes speed smoothly?

Also, I know on the 100 combines you have to be stopped to engage the separator, is the K the same way? Or is there a lever you can just pull/push while you're moving?

Thanks!


Posted By: CrestonM
Date Posted: 16 Aug 2016 at 10:42am
Owner *claims* it's field ready. 
If I do get it, first thing I'm doing is tuning up the engine and replacing ALL the belts! I don't want to end up like ol' Joe at Hutch with his T Gleaner. He made a nice round around the field, then he stopped for a minute, and when he took off again...well....he didn't! The variable speed belt snapped! 
Heck, I even had trouble with the SP-100! The bin unloader drive belt snapped! It was probably an original belt though. It's a bear to replace too.



Posted By: CrestonM
Date Posted: 16 Aug 2016 at 10:48am
Also, how hard are the headers to take on/off? 
SP-100 combine headers are bears, but I'd think these would be easier.


Posted By: Skyhighballoon(MO)
Date Posted: 16 Aug 2016 at 11:29am
Creston - you can engage/disengage the separator on the go.  Lever is on your right hand side below the seat next to console area.

Doesn't look like a quik-attach header so it's a four-hook head.   If you have the rock door tool, you use the end of the handle to push in the spring loaded "pins" that lock each "hook" into the feederhouse so you can lower it/back away.  They could be well rusted so take some kind of rust solvent to soak them and you may have to hammer them in, just don't ding up the pins.   The manual probably describes this better.   Of course you have to unhook any belts or chains driving the head and any hydraulic hoses (don't believe you'd have any on a pick-up head).   Mike


-------------
1981 Gleaner F2 Corn Plus w 13' flex
1968 Gleaner EIII w 10' & 330
1969 180 gas
1965 D17 S-IV gas
1963 D17 S-III gas
1956 WD45 gas NF PS
1956 All-Crop 66 Big Bin
303 wire baler, 716H, 712H mowers


Posted By: AC7060IL
Date Posted: 16 Aug 2016 at 11:30am
Viewing operator's station photo;
- Trans gear shift is near top of photo. It has "H" pattern. Reverse is closest at forward position. 1st is straight below Reverse. 2nd is in forward position on far side. 3rd is straight below 2nd.
- engine choke & throttle cable (smaller levers are by radio box.
- Header height (up/down) & Trans Variable speed (fast-forward/slow-backward) is on front console just left of gear shift.
- machine separator clutch engage/disengage lever is located on lower console (can't be seen in photo) right side of operator's seat.

General info:
Transmission variable speed (operator's) lever activates a small hydraulic piston at variable speed drive belt sheaves. When operator moves lever forward, it opens hydraulic valve to let oil piston push sheaves together which in turns, speeds up drive belt. Opposite happens when operator moves lever backward.

Machine separator clutch can be engaged & disengaged at any time. But it's recommended to only engage separator at low engine idle speed.

Front drive tires could be 18.4-26" or 16.9-26". 18.4s were popular for better floatations. Rear tires are usually 7.5-16".
GM250 is simple non electronic ignition 6 cylinder. Book says set timing at 0 TDC. It's best to set at 6 degrees BTDC. Carb is single barrel downdraft type with fan belt driven governor. This governor is self lubricated - check & keep oil at drain hole. Uses same oil as engine (good straight 30w). Governor should level carb's rpms sharply when throttle is opened up quickly. Carb may hunt once or twice then smooth off sharply. If carb continues to hunt, governor linkage needs adjusted. To adjust governor, change out alternator, replace fan belts, & repair pto shaft bearings, remove grain tank access panel from inside grain tank.


Posted By: CrestonM
Date Posted: 16 Aug 2016 at 11:35am
Thanks Mike and AC7060IL! You guys' information is a great help!

AC...when you talk about the governor being self lubricated...you mean it has its own little reservoir I need to check and maybe add oil to?
Thanks


Posted By: AC7060IL
Date Posted: 16 Aug 2016 at 11:56am
Yes, governor is a self contained unit. It has a top fill hole & a side full hole. Use a 7/16" wrench to remove hole bolts.
Yes, get an operators manual & parts manual if you buy machine. AGCO parts counter person will love you when you offer original part number. Many numbers have been updated or can quickly tell them if its discontinued.

For the most part, these machines are very simple. Just track hydraulic lines, wires, linkage, chains, & belts to figure what runs what & where it's going or coming from. They were designed with a centerline configuration. Cab or operators station is centered for head & equal side to side machine balance. Machine weight is centered mostly near rear of drive wheels to offer the best traction. So, If you are driving it with a header in the raised position - go slow as steer tires can easily bounce off ground.


Posted By: Joe(OH)
Date Posted: 16 Aug 2016 at 12:15pm
One thing that I see is that this combine is not set up for reel control.  There should be a second lever like the variable speed/header height lever that is for the reel height and speed. 

-------------
Life is simpler when you plow around the stump.


Posted By: Dmpaul89
Date Posted: 16 Aug 2016 at 12:56pm
You'll pry change your mind on replacing every belt when you see how much they cost....


Posted By: acd21man
Date Posted: 16 Aug 2016 at 1:04pm
idk bout your laws and such but we have hauled F,2,3s with a 4 row corn head and we had a e and k2 once that we hauled with the platforms still on. on  our trailer and ton dodge  just gota watch for signs lol and hauled them pretty far also

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2 wd 45,2 D-17 diesel/gas 3 pt, 220,d21, 4020,2 4430s used daily http://www.youtube.com/channel/UCudh8Xz9_rZHhUC3YNozupw


Posted By: acd21man
Date Posted: 16 Aug 2016 at 1:05pm
and i see that steering wheel still has alota white left on it or is that just dust?

-------------
2 wd 45,2 D-17 diesel/gas 3 pt, 220,d21, 4020,2 4430s used daily http://www.youtube.com/channel/UCudh8Xz9_rZHhUC3YNozupw


Posted By: CrestonM
Date Posted: 16 Aug 2016 at 1:22pm
Originally posted by acd21man acd21man wrote:

and i see that steering wheel still has alota white left on it or is that just dust?
I think it's white. I'll find out later. 


Posted By: CrestonM
Date Posted: 16 Aug 2016 at 1:23pm
Originally posted by Joe(OH) Joe(OH) wrote:

One thing that I see is that this combine is not set up for reel control.  There should be a second lever like the variable speed/header height lever that is for the reel height and speed. 
Oh "reely"? Lol!
So does that mean I'd need to find a lot more parts to put a reel on it? I was thinking just pull the alfalfa pick up, slide in a sickle, and find a reel for it, but that may not be the case.


Posted By: Skyhighballoon(MO)
Date Posted: 16 Aug 2016 at 1:36pm
Originally posted by Joe(OH) Joe(OH) wrote:

One thing that I see is that this combine is not set up for reel control.  There should be a second lever like the variable speed/header height lever that is for the reel height and speed. 


That was optional.  Other way was to adjust reel speed by moving the belt to different pulleys on the left side of the header and to adjust reel height using turnbuckles on each end (similar to a 3 point toplink).   That's how my 10 foot rigid head works.   Mike


-------------
1981 Gleaner F2 Corn Plus w 13' flex
1968 Gleaner EIII w 10' & 330
1969 180 gas
1965 D17 S-IV gas
1963 D17 S-III gas
1956 WD45 gas NF PS
1956 All-Crop 66 Big Bin
303 wire baler, 716H, 712H mowers


Posted By: CrestonM
Date Posted: 16 Aug 2016 at 1:50pm
Originally posted by Skyhighballoon(MO) Skyhighballoon(MO) wrote:

Originally posted by Joe(OH) Joe(OH) wrote:

One thing that I see is that this combine is not set up for reel control.  There should be a second lever like the variable speed/header height lever that is for the reel height and speed. 


That was optional.  Other way was to adjust reel speed by moving the belt to different pulleys on the left side of the header and to adjust reel height using turnbuckles on each end (similar to a 3 point toplink).   That's how my 10 foot rigid head works.   Mike
So I'd probably need to find those turnbuckles if it doesn't have them already. All things I need to find out when I go to see it. 


Posted By: CrestonM
Date Posted: 16 Aug 2016 at 5:35pm
Can anyone with a K operator's manual tell me what it says the top speed is? I've heard mixed reviews, some saying as low as 11mph and others as high as 17mph, and I am just wondering what the book says. 
Also, if anyone can tell me how many gallons the gas tank holds, and how long a tank lasts at full throttle (like while combining)
Thanks!



Posted By: Dmpaul89
Date Posted: 16 Aug 2016 at 6:09pm
If it's like my F you'll have a hard time keeping it running on 5 gallon cans lol. I had bout 5 of them and man! Takes forever to fill with these newer "safety nozzel" cans that don't vent. Talk about frustrating sitting up there next to a hot engine..... up and down both ladders.... wore me out for a while



Posted By: AC7060IL
Date Posted: 16 Aug 2016 at 6:33pm
Originally posted by CrestonM CrestonM wrote:


Can anyone with a K operator's manual tell me what it says the top speed is? I've heard mixed reviews, some saying as low as 11mph and others as high as 17mph, and I am just wondering what the book says. 
Also, if anyone can tell me how many gallons the gas tank holds, and how long a tank lasts at full throttle (like while combining)
Thanks!




What's the serial number of machine? Look for serial number plate on rear left side, above & just forward of rear steer wheel. Starting Serial number by year:
1969 - 1001, 32 gallon fuel tank
1970 - 5001,
1971 - 8201,
1972 - 12201,
1973 - 14601, 52 gallon fuel tank
1974 - 17001,
1975 - 19401,
1976 - 21801.

Standard drive tire 14.9-26. Optional 16.9-26 & 18.4-26.
mph:        14.9-26     18.4-26
1st gear   0.9-2.3,     1.0-2.6,
2nd gear 2.2-5.7,     2.4-6.2,
3rd gear   5.5-14.0.   5.9-15.4

Width with standard tires = 90".
Height = 105.25".
Weight = 7085lbs.



Posted By: AC7060IL
Date Posted: 16 Aug 2016 at 6:56pm
No idea what Fuel usage while driving machine should be?
GM250 6 cylinder engine specs:
Low idle 500-550 rpm,
High idle 2270-2310 rpm,
Compression 8.5-1.


Posted By: CrestonM
Date Posted: 16 Aug 2016 at 6:59pm
Thanks. The guy says it's a 1971, but I'll double check. 
I guess the ideal thing to do would be rent a trailer and haul it, but I don't have a gooseneck hitch, and I bet there's no place that rents an 8' deck bumper pull.


Posted By: AC7060IL
Date Posted: 16 Aug 2016 at 8:15pm
Check out this past thread about my k2's GM250 fuel usage cutting beans. I harvested 33 acres in 10 hours and used just under 46 gallon of gasoline. Doing the math, it burned 4.6 gal/hr & travelled roughly 25 miles @ 2.5mph harvest speed. So for argument sake, say it pulled the same load, but instead averaged a harvest speed of 12 mph. It would have travelled 120 miles in 10 hours using 46 gallon gas. Ideally then, this K's 32 gallon tank should go at least 83.5 miles @ 4.6 gallons per hour usage going 12mph. Since it would just be road driving, I doubt very much it would use that much gas?? Only way you're going know is to just try it. It can easily fit into most gas stations for refueling. I imagine without any trouble, you could make your 150 miles in one long day (15-16hrs)?? Best of luck.

http://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=98154&title=soybeans-cut-per-day" rel="nofollow - http://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=98154&title=soybeans-cut-per-day


Posted By: Orange Blood
Date Posted: 16 Aug 2016 at 8:29pm
Originally posted by AC7060IL AC7060IL wrote:

..................... It can easily fit into most gas stations for refueling. I imagine without any trouble, ...................

And when you do.....I want pictures, of all the City folk gawking!!


-------------
Still in use:
HD7 WC C CA WD 2-WD45 WD45LP WD45D D14 3-D17 D17LP 2-D19D D19LP 190XTD 190XTLP 720 D21 220 7020 7030 7040 7045 3-7060
Projects: 3-U UC 2-G 2-B 2-C CA 7-WC RC WDLP WF D14 D21 210 7045 N7


Posted By: CrestonM
Date Posted: 16 Aug 2016 at 8:52pm
Actually, when I was combining milo last fall, there was a gas station literally right beside the field (Farming in town has its advantages) and my B needed gas, so I shut the PTO off and drove the B and 60A into the station! Got a lot of looks, but no pics.


Posted By: CrestonM
Date Posted: 16 Aug 2016 at 9:01pm
I have no problem taking a Saturday off to drive it the distance, but I'm a little worried if something broke, what would I do then, in the middle of nowhere? Say the V-belt drive belt snaps, or something else, and I'm stranded. Can you tow these combines without taking stuff apart? I know there is a sticker in the cab of our L3 that says you have disconnect something on the L2,3/M2,3/F2,3 combines to tow them, but not the K2. 


Posted By: CrestonM
Date Posted: 16 Aug 2016 at 9:49pm
Here's the link to the ad for the combine. 
http://stillwater.craigslist.org/grd/5687422425.html" rel="nofollow - http://stillwater.craigslist.org/grd/5687422425.html


Posted By: jorstad brothers
Date Posted: 16 Aug 2016 at 10:43pm
what is that hit and miss engine next to it. Deere? mabey

-------------
remember plunder than burn


Posted By: CrestonM
Date Posted: 16 Aug 2016 at 11:06pm
I don't know.


Posted By: shameless (ne)
Date Posted: 16 Aug 2016 at 11:46pm
holy bobcat Dixie! there ain't no cab on it! that's the first one I've seen without a cab! whew! I see the sickle guards are there, check to see if the pitman drive is still on the head. should be able to just dis-mount the other pickup head and add the sickle like you said. make sure you pump two (2) pumps of grease in the lower drive sheave. it might be stuck from sitting (normal) and if you run it, it'll blow that belt into all kinds of pieces, and the last one I bought was $193.00. looks like the original gas tank has been replaced. it should be an oval tank the same width as the threshing part of the machine. pick a rainy day to drive it home, and it'll help wash the dust off as you go! I also don't think it's a '71 model either! think it's older. and if you build a header trailer out of a wagon gear, make sure the wheels of the gear are spaced wider than the header is, otherwise you can't get close enough to unhook it onto the trailer.   


Posted By: CrestonM
Date Posted: 17 Aug 2016 at 6:52am
Header trailer???? For this little ol' thing????
We don't even have a header trailer for our L3! And it has a 24' header! We just road it everywhere! This summer I was working for a friend, and we were using an L3 and M2, both with 24' headers. We took them both down a 2 lane highway, and passed cars and semi-trucks no problem! 

No, there's no cab (which I like), and like you said, they're not too common without them. I've only seen one other without a cab, and that's on tractorhouse. 

They guy said after he posted that ad, he pulled it out, washed it off, and greased everything and oiled the chains, so  it should be good, but I'll double check.

As to the header, yes, I'm hoping I can find a sickle and reel, and  hopefully everything will work without too much trouble. Will a reel from a C/C2/G attach to the header, if I cut it shorter? Or are the mounting brackets different? If they are, I could probably figure something out. That's what farmers do, right?? LOL


Posted By: shameless (ne)
Date Posted: 17 Aug 2016 at 7:27am
if you tow it. you slide the tranny conectors off that connect the tranny shaft to the final drive shaft.  


Posted By: shameless (ne)
Date Posted: 17 Aug 2016 at 7:31am
I thought you said you wanted to take the head off to drive it home?


Posted By: CrestonM
Date Posted: 17 Aug 2016 at 7:55am
No, that would be for trailering maybe, but since farm equipment is exempt from permits in Oklahoma, I'd just need flags and wide load signs. 


Posted By: Pete from IL
Date Posted: 17 Aug 2016 at 12:53pm
My Dad bought a K at an estate auction years ago and on the drive home the hydraulic pump went out. Oil all over the place but it did not affect the steering. Just a mechanical steering box on that one. Don't you have a friend with a trailer? 
 On another topic, I drove through the town of Creston , Indiana yesterday . Very small town in NW Indiana.  I thought of you right away. Next time I go through there I will get a picture of the town sign.  Pete


Posted By: AC7060IL
Date Posted: 17 Aug 2016 at 2:03pm
Originally posted by shameless (ne) shameless (ne) wrote:

if you tow it. you slide the tranny conectors off that connect the tranny shaft to the final drive shaft.  


This can not be done on the older K. It has solid axles from Trans to Final drives. Gleaner did not offer this nice feature (axle couplers) until the 1978 K2 machines. Yes, even the 1977 K2 short back has solid axles too. Maybe the older bigger machines (F, G, L, &M) did offer axle couplers - I'm not sure about them?


Posted By: AC7060IL
Date Posted: 17 Aug 2016 at 2:33pm
As seen in this picture, the Gleaner K's solid axle shafts extend inside the transmission & outside to final drives. There are no axle couplers. The solid axles are splined where the axle brake drums, which are also splined to mate the axle, are positioned. The final drives have a small brake housing bolted to them that house the brake pads, pistons, springs, & etc.   


Posted By: CrestonM
Date Posted: 17 Aug 2016 at 4:21pm
Originally posted by Pete from IL Pete from IL wrote:

My Dad bought a K at an estate auction years ago and on the drive home the hydraulic pump went out. Oil all over the place but it did not affect the steering. Just a mechanical steering box on that one. Don't you have a friend with a trailer? 
 On another topic, I drove through the town of Creston , Indiana yesterday . Very small town in NW Indiana.  I thought of you right away. Next time I go through there I will get a picture of the town sign.  Pete

What happened after the pump went out? Did the header drop? Or did the pump just go out? Did he just keep driving?

So there's a Creston, Indiana too, eh? I've been to Creston, Iowa and Creston, Nebraska. I've heard there's a Creston, Saskatchewan too. 


Posted By: Dmpaul89
Date Posted: 17 Aug 2016 at 4:57pm
header shouldn't drop if pump goes out unless the cylinders leak


Posted By: Pete from IL
Date Posted: 17 Aug 2016 at 6:42pm
No the header didn't drop.  He did not even know there was a problem until he got home and the side of the combine was covered with oil.


Posted By: CrestonM
Date Posted: 17 Aug 2016 at 8:09pm
Interesting. So how do you tow it if it doesn't have an axle coupler? 


Posted By: TREVMAN
Date Posted: 17 Aug 2016 at 8:35pm
Have to cut the axle and weld up after, but don't do that. Rent a trailer for a day and borrow a proper 1 ton truck and trailer it home. Flag the header and wide load sign the back. I hauled an E with 13 foot head, which is the fore runner of the K and very similar 200 miles one way about  9 hours/trip. Once you get it home you can run it, find any issues, hoses leaking, rad leaking, tires that are rotten, the sort of things that one can expect from a partially shedded 45 year old machine. Then at least you are not on the side of the road where it is dangerous to begin with trying to fix something without access to many tools you have at home, and its getting dark and there is a million bugs etc.. Maybe ask  the seller if the reel and any other cutting parts are around? Good luck, nice little combine, Trev.


Posted By: CrestonM
Date Posted: 17 Aug 2016 at 9:20pm
Thanks. I really think trailering would be the thing to do, but I'm having trouble finding a trailer. 
When I go see it, I'll ask about the other header parts.
Thanks


Posted By: Ray54
Date Posted: 17 Aug 2016 at 9:34pm
Your so famous there is a Creston Calif as well. I also vote you haul it.


Posted By: Dmpaul89
Date Posted: 17 Aug 2016 at 9:37pm
You guys sure it can't just be put in nuetral?? And use a dolly? It's just a gear transmission


Posted By: CrestonM
Date Posted: 17 Aug 2016 at 9:48pm
Originally posted by Dmpaul89 Dmpaul89 wrote:

You guys sure it can't just be put in nuetral?? And use a dolly? It's just a gear transmission
That's what I would've thought.


Posted By: CrestonM
Date Posted: 17 Aug 2016 at 9:49pm
Originally posted by Ray54 Ray54 wrote:

Your so famous there is a Creston Calif as well. I also vote you haul it.
Wow! 
It's on my bucket list to visit all the "Crestons" I can find.


Posted By: TREVMAN
Date Posted: 17 Aug 2016 at 10:37pm
I  tried to pull one of my E's backwards, one wheel spinned the other direction. I too thought its just a gear jammer, put it in neutral. Didn't work. Pulled on grass about 50 feet and it was o.k. then hit gravel...bang...twisted the axle. Welded it in place, if I had to do it again I would have fabbed up a coupler like on the newer combines. I'd trailer it, Trev. 


Posted By: CrestonM
Date Posted: 17 Aug 2016 at 11:00pm
Originally posted by TREVMAN TREVMAN wrote:

I  tried to pull one of my E's backwards, one wheel spinned the other direction. I too thought its just a gear jammer, put it in neutral. Didn't work. Pulled on grass about 50 feet and it was o.k. then hit gravel...bang...twisted the axle. Welded it in place, if I had to do it again I would have fabbed up a coupler like on the newer combines. I'd trailer it, Trev. 
Well that's no good!! 
So in other words, the only proper way to move it is by driving it. It wasn't designed to be towed. 


Posted By: shameless (ne)
Date Posted: 17 Aug 2016 at 11:06pm
find a dude that has a trailer made to haul them big self propelled sprayers, or those swathers, those pull behind a pickup good.


Posted By: shameless (ne)
Date Posted: 18 Aug 2016 at 7:41am
just to burst yer bubble a little....an N6 combine with 27 ft header and a header trailer just sold in OK.....for $2200. you could have paid for that combine with the first custom job prolly! whew!


Posted By: CrestonM
Date Posted: 18 Aug 2016 at 7:44am
Originally posted by shameless (ne) shameless (ne) wrote:

just to burst yer bubble a little....an N6 combine with 27 ft header and a header trailer just sold in OK.....for $2200. you could have paid for that combine with the first custom job prolly! whew!

Was there anything wrong with it?


Posted By: shameless (ne)
Date Posted: 18 Aug 2016 at 7:56am
nope


Posted By: CrestonM
Date Posted: 18 Aug 2016 at 8:09am
Well that makes me about sick....
Like the $250 7040....

Where did it sell at?


Posted By: CrestonM
Date Posted: 18 Aug 2016 at 6:46pm
Well I drove the combine today. I drove it around, but there are 3 problems. 
1. Header will not raise/lower.
2. Variable speed does not work. (still drives good in all gears, but can't vary speed within the gears)
3. Separator will not engage. Is that some kind of a clutch? It seems like it's stuck. It just lugs the engine down and nothing moves. 

Pics to come!!

Also...S/N is 3511, making it a first year 1969!


Posted By: AC7060IL
Date Posted: 18 Aug 2016 at 8:10pm
Originally posted by CrestonM CrestonM wrote:


Well I drove the combine today. I drove it around, but there are 3 problems. 
1. Header will not raise/lower.
2. Variable speed does not work. (still drives good in all gears, but can't vary speed within the gears)
3. Separator will not engage. Is that some kind of a clutch? It seems like it's stuck. It just lugs the engine down and nothing moves. 

Pics to come!!

Also...S/N is 3511, making it a first year 1969!


It sounds like the hydraulic valves that operate the header & variable speed may have frozen up from sitting idle too long. This is a common issue. When the machine is operated, the hydraulic system builds up heat. When the machine is shut down, it cools down. In colder late season harvests, a more rapid cool down allows for larger condensation to accumulate inside hydraulics(valves, reservoir, pump, etc). This condensation moisture can freeze up & crack valves, ruin seals, plus simply corrode components.
Try unhooking the hydraulic valve's control rods at valve plunger, then using some spray lubricant, a hammer, & a channel lock, tap& pry valve plunger in & out, until it moves freely. Re-install each control rod & try it. On a 1969 model K, these hydraulic valve bodies may be positioned back under engine radiator by hydraulic pump assy or they may be up under operators console right below levers?

The separator clutch issue is also a common thing from sitting idle too long. Sometimes the rattle chain will be rusted in position? There is a rattle chain clean out access panel up under cylinder throat that should be opened & cleaned of grain, chaff, dirt, etc at the end of each season. This area also allows access to the rattle chain's idler pulleys. Lift header to aid removal of this access panel. Also check that all rotating items(augers, elevators, walkers, fans, etc move freely. If separator clutch is held by any frozen up items & engines pulls down long enough it may smoke the clutch linings and/or burn up the main drive belt.


Posted By: CrestonM
Date Posted: 18 Aug 2016 at 8:37pm
Originally posted by AC7060IL AC7060IL wrote:


It sounds like the hydraulic valves that operate the header & variable speed may have frozen up from sitting idle too long. This is a common issue. When the machine is operated, the hydraulic system builds up heat. When the machine is shut down, it cools down. In colder late season harvests, a more rapid cool down allows for larger condensation to accumulate inside hydraulics(valves, reservoir, pump, etc). This condensation moisture can freeze up & crack valves, ruin seals, plus simply corrode components.
Try unhooking the hydraulic valve's control rods at valve plunger, then using some spray lubricant, a hammer, & a channel lock, tap& pry valve plunger in & out, until it moves freely. Re-install each control rod & try it. On a 1969 model K, these hydraulic valve bodies may be positioned back under engine radiator by hydraulic pump assy or they may be up under operators console right below levers?

The separator clutch issue is also a common thing from sitting idle too long. Sometimes the rattle chain will be rusted in position? There is a rattle chain clean out access panel up under cylinder throat that should be opened & cleaned of grain, chaff, dirt, etc at the end of each season. This area also allows access to the rattle chain's idler pulleys. Lift header to aid removal of this access panel. Also check that all rotating items(augers, elevators, walkers, fans, etc move freely. If separator clutch is held by any frozen up items & engines pulls down long enough it may smoke the clutch linings and/or burn up the main drive belt.

The valve plungers DO move freely as of right now, but nothing happens. They are located where you said, back by the hydraulic pump.



Posted By: AC7060IL
Date Posted: 18 Aug 2016 at 9:04pm
Ok. Hydraulic valves need to move a full range in each direction. Also, engine needs to be running at high idle. Hydraulics will not work or be sluggish at medium rpms.
If those all check out, then start looking for some hydraulic flow issue ( reservoir low on hydraulic ATF, hydraulic filter clogged, hydraulic siphon hose flacked off inside & clogged, hydraulic pump belt not tight, crankshaft belts that drive pto shaft may be slipping, hydraulic flow control valve blockage or bad, hydraulic pump may be bad)???

Good luck. Depending on your findings, the $1000 sell price may be lowering...


Posted By: CrestonM
Date Posted: 18 Aug 2016 at 9:08pm
I'll check those things probably next week. Next Thursday is as soon as I could go back, as my college classes are my first priority (I only have one class on Thursday, though, so that's kinda my "free day" Big smile)

Also, how should I free up the separator clutch?


Posted By: CrestonM
Date Posted: 18 Aug 2016 at 9:45pm
Here is 1 pic so far. More are on the way, as well as a video.


Posted By: TREVMAN
Date Posted: 18 Aug 2016 at 9:48pm
Didn't dude say "field ready"? All those things can be dealt with, but I'd take $500 cash and not pay much more. Neat little combine but just like my 2 E's, there is very little demand/interest in a machine that size. Trev.


Posted By: CrestonM
Date Posted: 18 Aug 2016 at 9:49pm








Posted By: TREVMAN
Date Posted: 18 Aug 2016 at 9:53pm
Looked at your post again...If you don't have header movement or variable speed, I wonder if you have any hydro power at all...Maybe just low on oil, Trev.


Posted By: CrestonM
Date Posted: 18 Aug 2016 at 9:54pm
Originally posted by TREVMAN TREVMAN wrote:

Looked at your post again...If you don't have header movement or variable speed, I wonder if you have any hydro power at all...Maybe just low on oil, Trev.
I'm hoping that's all it is. 
What is type A transmission oil? ATF?


Posted By: Skyhighballoon(MO)
Date Posted: 18 Aug 2016 at 9:55pm
I agree - I wouldn't give over $500 either.   I only paid $600 for my EIII (one year older than that K) and it was in better shape, has a cab and 10' rigid head.   Been using it for 8 years now.   Mike

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1981 Gleaner F2 Corn Plus w 13' flex
1968 Gleaner EIII w 10' & 330
1969 180 gas
1965 D17 S-IV gas
1963 D17 S-III gas
1956 WD45 gas NF PS
1956 All-Crop 66 Big Bin
303 wire baler, 716H, 712H mowers


Posted By: CrestonM
Date Posted: 18 Aug 2016 at 9:57pm
Originally posted by TREVMAN TREVMAN wrote:

Didn't dude say "field ready"? All those things can be dealt with, but I'd take $500 cash and not pay much more. Neat little combine but just like my 2 E's, there is very little demand/interest in a machine that size. Trev.
Yeah, I'm thinking that too. 


Posted By: TREVMAN
Date Posted: 18 Aug 2016 at 10:12pm
I'm gonna say that I think your separator wont engage because from the pics it looks like your chains are rusted in place...wow are they ever crispy. You are probably going to have to take those off, soak them in diesel or just replace them. I pulled an E out of a pond 6 years ago had been there since 1988, when I tried to engage the separator the engine stalled out. I soaked all the chains with diesel once  a day for a weak, then poured atf on them. The engine then pulled the separator, but it was a grunt for a while. I took all the chains off, labelled them and let them soak in diesel over winter in the shop. Put them back on, slathered them in grease and they all still work. I do not have a shed so I slather the chains in grease after I am done fooling around with it in fall. Hope this helps, Trev.


Posted By: CrestonM
Date Posted: 18 Aug 2016 at 10:25pm
Surprisingly the chains have some wiggle to them. I'm going to spray them and then brush thick oil on them and see what happens. 


Posted By: CrestonM
Date Posted: 18 Aug 2016 at 10:42pm
http://https://www.youtube.com/watch??v=G9pwynv_1Fc" rel="nofollow - http://https://www.youtube.com/watch??v=G9pwynv_1Fc

[TUBE]?v=G9pwynv_1Fc[/TUBE]
A little drive around video.


Posted By: shameless (ne)
Date Posted: 19 Aug 2016 at 2:06am
looks to me like you were driving around looking for a place to get stuck? and that thing is NOT field ready, looking at the pics, it has sat along time, prolly both inside and outside. when I bought my "K" 15 years ago, it was on a dealers lot on consignment, paid $1500. it with all new tires, bearings, belts, chains, a 13 ft floating cutter bar with hume reel, and a 238 orange corn head. delivered! it is still not a bad looking combine, and with some TLC can be re-born again! I would not pay $1000. for this machine. $500 at the very most.  


Posted By: CrestonM
Date Posted: 19 Aug 2016 at 6:55am
Originally posted by shameless (ne) shameless (ne) wrote:

looks to me like you were driving around looking for a place to get stuck? and that thing is NOT field ready, looking at the pics, it has sat along time, prolly both inside and outside. when I bought my "K" 15 years ago, it was on a dealers lot on consignment, paid $1500. it with all new tires, bearings, belts, chains, a 13 ft floating cutter bar with hume reel, and a 238 orange corn head. delivered! it is still not a bad looking combine, and with some TLC can be re-born again! I would not pay $1000. for this machine. $500 at the very most.  

No, it's not field ready. The owner knows nothing about it or farming, so go figure. 
I might offer him $500, and if he says "Ok", then great. If he doesn't, I'll just move on. Simple as that! Besides, Mom and Dad don't like it anyway. Seems whenever I find a non-running Super 100, they don't like it because it "needs tires and doesn't even run". But this one does!......???   This was kinda funny....Mom also tells me I need to stop buying other stuff and save my money for a Gleaner (This is a Gleaner, right?) Well when I showed her the photos she said that wasn't what she meant. Apparently she meant a shiny big new one! Lol


Posted By: Lonn
Date Posted: 19 Aug 2016 at 7:06am
My uncle has a cherry low houred late model K for sale. $2,000 would take it. Otherwise it will be at the Hamilton Auction in Dexter MN the 27th of August. I would have snapped it up myself but don't have the shed room. It's really too nice not to have under cover.

On edit I think the sale is actually Labor Day


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I am a Russian Bot


Posted By: jorstad brothers
Date Posted: 19 Aug 2016 at 7:10am
save your 500 for a better one. there are a lot of gleaners out there in buildings.  waiting for some love.

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remember plunder than burn


Posted By: CrestonM
Date Posted: 19 Aug 2016 at 7:24am
I don't mind working on it to get it running. What would you guys say it's worth? I'm getting the feeling $500 is too much, based on what several people have said.


Posted By: Lonn
Date Posted: 19 Aug 2016 at 7:37am
I am told scrap is $100 a ton at local yard right now. And I wouldn't give that but if you are looking for a project then it's better than buying a rusted tractor that been sitting outside for 40 years and restoring that. And plenty of people do exactly that. It's in the eye of the beholder. It you really want it, what's $500 bucks and some belts and chains. Some people drink that up in the local bar in a couple months. I've never seen a cabless K BTW.


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I am a Russian Bot


Posted By: shameless (ne)
Date Posted: 19 Aug 2016 at 7:43am
as said above, there still are nice "k"s out there, and this one would be a good "parts" machine. offer him $200-$300, and tell him it'll prolly be a parts machine. I would really check into Lonn's uncles machine now. somehow, with all the AC family working together we can prolly get it down to you! I haven't decided if I wanna sell mine yet...Lonn....can you get sum pics for creston on here?


Posted By: Dmpaul89
Date Posted: 19 Aug 2016 at 8:27am
I don't think you would be hurt at 5-600. If it runs good doesn't smoke. Look at the cylinder bars. Tires gonna make the trip? I would bet $20 it's low on hydraulic fluid. Once you top that off you will have speed control, header hieght, etc.


Posted By: Lonn
Date Posted: 19 Aug 2016 at 9:26am
Originally posted by shameless (ne) shameless (ne) wrote:

as said above, there still are nice "k"s out there, and this one would be a good "parts" machine. offer him $200-$300, and tell him it'll prolly be a parts machine. I would really check into Lonn's uncles machine now. somehow, with all the AC family working together we can prolly get it down to you! I haven't decided if I wanna sell mine yet...Lonn....can you get sum pics for creston on here?
I can get him my uncle's phone number. He'll be way further ahead with this K for $2000 than that K he's looking at. I just hope whoever ends up with it treats it as an American icon and not just a tool to use up and throw away.


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Wink
I am a Russian Bot


Posted By: shameless (ne)
Date Posted: 19 Aug 2016 at 10:08am
just checked on big iron auction, there's a "C" with an 18 ft header and hyd reel at jetmore KS, there's a $1. bid on it. 1962 model year. page 11 on currant sale.


Posted By: AC7060IL
Date Posted: 19 Aug 2016 at 10:40am
Originally posted by CrestonM CrestonM wrote:


I'll check those things probably next week. Next Thursday is as soon as I could go back, as my college classes are my first priority (I only have one class on Thursday, though, so that's kinda my "free day" Big smile)

Also, how should I free up the separator clutch?


Freeing up the clutch is probably not the issue. It's all the rotating items listed in my previous post that may require attention.


Posted By: Michael V (NM)
Date Posted: 19 Aug 2016 at 10:58am
could be a rats nest in the machine,, basically plugging it up
Did ya open the inspection covers on the side of the machine and look inside?
I would almost bet the hydraulic problems are its low on oil
I would really try to pay less than $500, just because its gonna take a lot to get in any kind of field ready shape, belts and cylinder bars add up quick,,, then there's sure to be bearings to be replaced,, maybe needs a raddle chain too??
oh yea,, finding a header for direct cutting and/or fixing this one...


Posted By: CrestonM
Date Posted: 19 Aug 2016 at 11:47am
Originally posted by Michael V (NM) Michael V (NM) wrote:

could be a rats nest in the machine,, basically plugging it up
Did ya open the inspection covers on the side of the machine and look inside?
I would almost bet the hydraulic problems are its low on oil
I would really try to pay less than $500, just because its gonna take a lot to get in any kind of field ready shape, belts and cylinder bars add up quick,,, then there's sure to be bearings to be replaced,, maybe needs a raddle chain too??
oh yea,, finding a header for direct cutting and/or fixing this one...

I did look inside the machine, and it was clean as a whistle surprisingly. Now, that was just the walkers and shoe, and the back end of the raddle. I don't know what the cylinder area looks like. Is there a door on top of the feederhouse I can open to inspect the cylinder? Once I get to it, I'll take pics and post them here so you guys can diagnose it. I don't know the difference in good and worn bars. My only experience is with All-Crop bars Big smile

I will get some oil and add to the pump, and see what happens. I kinda don't want to fix it, because then the owner will probably want more if the header and variable speed works.

I'll also get underneath and pop the cylinder door (Does it work just like an L/M?), and also remove that raddle cover and take a look. 

He also showed me in a granary where there are probably a dozen belts are more, and they probably go on the combine because they are among-st a bunch of other K parts, including two sickles. The belts are NOS. 

I don't think header would be too hard to convert to straight cut. Drop alfalfa pick up, slide in the sickle, find a sickle drive for it (Pitman or wobble box?), and lastly a reel (Which I think I can find in western OK.) Also, it does have the manual adjust for reel speed. The setup with multiple sheaves. It also has manual reel height. 


Ok, now knowing all this, what do you guys think now? 

I respect you guys opinions, and I'm not 100% set on it yet, so you could probably still sway me one way or the other. I'm really kinda in the middle right now. 

However, that being said, I don't want to sound rude, but I kinda think you guys are being too harsh on this poor little combine! I think after it gets a bath and the chains oiled and cleaned up, it'll do good! Hey, it was half barn kept (rear hung out of the barn) which is GREAT for Oklahoma!! All you guys up north have combines like Lonn was talking about that look like they just came off the show room. We don't have that. Most farmers down here left their equipment out all the time (and many still do), so something like this is our version of a gem. Plus, it's a first year model, and doesn't have a cab! (Them cabs make you "soft" Lol LOL)
Heck, great-great granddad's 60A has sat outside since 1950, and it sat idle outside from 1983 till 2016, it was full of varmints nests, the straw rack was all rotted out, the grain drag raddle chain was toast (links were all worn so thin they were snapping one right after the other.) A little TLC and it cut wheat this summer, and delivered a near perfect sample with minimum loss! Big smile


Posted By: Dmpaul89
Date Posted: 19 Aug 2016 at 12:31pm
Sounds like your in love so really doesn't matter our opinion at this point :)

Go buy it

Heads are dime a dozen. I'd leave the pickup alone it would be use full if you wanted to do small grains or edible beans or something specialized


Posted By: CrestonM
Date Posted: 19 Aug 2016 at 12:47pm
Not really in love, I'm just trying to balance the good with the bad. Trying to take in both sides and make a wise decision. 
I need to look it over more and try to turn some shafts.


Posted By: Lonn
Date Posted: 19 Aug 2016 at 1:21pm
I agree that you should save the pickup head and look for another head.


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I am a Russian Bot



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