CA Project Pics

1) After contacting the vendor of the GTC505 analyzer, I discovered that they have a firmware update that relates to misinterpreting mechanical distributor signals that don't quite transition to zero volts between firings (I assume trigger not resetting due to not seeing the required voltage  transition).  After installing the 211C update, the electrical misfires were completely eliminated.  

So I went back to assuming carburetor issues.  I found a cheap knockoff zenith (advertised as a replacement, but I believe somebody made a copy/paste error as it was not the correct model to replace a TSX486).  Anyway, the new carburetor completely eliminated the misfires at idle.  I had cleaned and replaced about everything in the TSX486 (had it apart about 12 times), but something is still wrong, so I sent it out for a "professional" rebuild.  I'll try it out next  trip in late August (2025).  As for the knockoff zenith, I had to bore the (stepped) main jet out from 0.0645/.0600 all the way to 0.0990 before the tractor would run above idle (the TSX486 is at 0.0990 #39 drill).  Was severely gas starved at anything above idle.  These zenith "universal" carburetors are horrible.  They have small diameter mounting studs that allow the carburetor to be misaligned causing the throttle plate to get stuck rubbing against the flange hole (maybe the reason for extra gaskets, but there were no instructions).  Also, you have to cut off and grind the throttle rod, else it won't mount and even grinding it all the way to the lock nut, it still rubs the block when it rotates.  I don't recommend anybody use these if there's any way around it.  Find a proper TSX and stick with it.  Also, if you DO install the zenith, you MUST modify it (on a CA), which then makes it non-returnable.

Edit:  I've decided that I could probably just bore the zenith mounting stud holes out to the correct size and use the TSX mounting bolts and nuts.  That should eliminate the alignment issues.  Was slightly scary when the tractor revved up uncontrollably a few times :(

2) Spent some time on the hydraulic pump bracket.  I completed the design of the bracket for the front (dual mount front or at the belt pulley).  Unfortunately, the 5 inch engine pulley I got won't work because the 1 inch spline is too large to go through the crank hole.  13/16 is about the largest shaft that will go through without mod, which I don't want to do.  I need to research another pulley with a 3/4 spline.  The one I bought with the 1 inch spline is the one recommended for a CA, but it is not compatible as-is.  This is critical for knowing how far out to mount the pump and what shaft adaptors I need to accommodate.  This isn't a high priority project though.

3) The majority of the time was spent on the canopy install.  I designed a fairly robust mount, but unfortunately falls a little short of ROPS strength (but I don't plan to test it).  There are options for bracing/strengthening, but I'm not sure I will proceed.  Dad thinks I should make it foldable like many ROPS, but I don't think I want to do that. 

The canopy isn't too bad for $250 (you get what you pay for).  But it is just a little bit flimsy and flaps in the wind and road bumps.  You know that's going to rapidly crack without much use at all.  I could probably add some strategic reinforcements (but should I really have to???).

I did find a deficiency with my drawbar supplemental bail design and made a minor mod to block rotational (front to back) movement.  It was designed to hold the drawbar up, but those giant lever arms for the canopy apply quite a bit of rotational force.  The bail is attached with clamps and could slide with enough force.  Of course it wouldn't go very far, but zero movement is better.

The canopy is easily removable.  I also made the bracket it mounts to removable because it was too tall to fit through the barn door.  I did raise the barn door to a consistent 92 inches all the way across (was sagging in the middle), but that only gives me 1/2 inch of clearance with the canopy mounting bracket, so I'll probably still remove it since it's really easy to remove.

4) The AGCO guy was able to straighten my cultivator lift arms (logging accident or a wreck down a ravine, not sure which).  He didn't charge anything which was nice.  I had primed most parts on the June trip and just gave a coat of orange (other than the lift arms).

5) I spent one day doing some electrical work in the barn.  A little tired of tripping over tangled extension cords.

6) Worked on the hydraulic tank mounts.  What I designed needs a minor mod to add a hangover lip to prevent it from slipping off sideways.  I decided to add some rubber mounting pads to the tank.  Too much metal to metal scuffing.  I'll probably glue them to the tank.

7) I investigated whether mods are needed to prevent the PTO shaft from angling too much with the finish mower.  As is, the lower lift arm travel is limited to 2 inches below the angle it sits at on flat ground.  The limit is how far in the hydraulic cylinders will go.  If it needs to be limited further, I could add some non-scuffing collars around the cylinder rods, maybe.  I was unable to find a protractor or anything to actually measure an angle, so I ordered one for next trip.  I'll consider what happens when the rear end of the mower tilts upward also.  The angle is probably not ideal, partly due to the add-on "overrun" clutch, partly due to the "flexible/floating" 3-point top link attachment which may be allowing too much flexibility.  At least on one occasion, the PTO shaft pressed against the top link bracket on the mower and gouged the plastic protector.

8) Added a manifold 1/8 port to allow a vacuum reading.  After determining that my cheap vacuum meter was not correctly calibrated, I manually "calibrated" it and got good readings of ~22 inches hg.  This was confirmed later with a higher quality meter.

I don't really like what I've done, but there was just not a lot of good options.  The supplemental bail mounts to the cultivator bracket position.  This gives me pretty good vertical support on the axle (but of course requires the wheels spun out just a bit, which I don't mind because it's a tiny bit more stable).  I left a vertical protrusion on purpose while I was deciding whether to add a canopy/ROPS.  So the vertical frame supports for the canopy are attached to this vertical protrusion above the cultivator bracket.  So as to not further limit how far in I could bring the tires, I mounted the supports on the inside toward the fenders.  This then limited the thickness that I had intended to use to gain ROPS strength.  The thickness I wanted worked on one side but not the other, perhaps bent fenders (didn't bother to see where it was off).  For now, I use clamps (half inch plates with 4 half inch bolts) with a single 3/4 through pin with an R clip.  It is rock solid.  You can pick the tractor up with it with zero deflection, zero rotation.  I used 3/4 x 4 inch flats for ease of fitment.  I could easily add some square tubing to the outside of each rail to improve the side to side bending resistance, again at the cost of limits on tire adjustment range.  All because i didn't want to mod the platform.  I guess I could have bought another platform and modified it like I did for the PTO guard, but then again, there's not many other good locations to bolt onto other than giant clamps around the axle (like the H and M use).

Edit:  Those rails are pretty darn heavy.  I may not be able to lift them into place in a another few years :(