Yes, not really sure how long.  But it WILL LIVE AGAIN IF I HAVE TO WITHDRAW EVERY LAST PENNY FROM MY 401K! (but hopefully not :), although today's spending was a good start on that).

It is a 1952 CA.  Positive.  It has no 3-point hitch, just the normal 1952 pin hitch.  In the picture, the drawbar is installed.  The lift arms are fully down and the drawbar attaches to the lift arms and fits inside the U shaped arms.  I was looking for a ready made 3-point kit for it but didn't find any.  I see a kit that mounts on a drawbar, although not the pin hitch drawbar.  I was thinking I could adapt the pin hitch drawbar to attach via split bearings to the rockshaft and thus my other post asking about the dimensions of the rockshaft.

Older CA, the lift arms run down like that, but you can put a 3ph on one, I have two CA's and I put a 3ph on one to use a finish mower on.

https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/ca-3-point-hitch_topic169749.html" rel="nofollow - https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/ca-3-point-hitch_topic169749.html

That's the snap coupler draw bar.  The pin hitch drawbar attaches to the lift arms, so I either have to first convert to snap coupler or I have to figure out a way to detach the pin hitch drawbar from the lift arms and attach to the rockshaft via split bearings or other custom mount.

I searched Steiner and several other places and they all said there was nothing specific to the CA (and probably more so the pre 1954 CA).  If you know otherwise, I'd like to know where to get it or what mods are needed.  I think I have a suitable mod in mind, if there is enough clearance behind the rockshaft.

yes

https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/2point-to-3point-hitch-ca-conversion-question_topic51797.html" rel="nofollow - https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/2point-to-3point-hitch-ca-conversion-question_topic51797.html

Borescope pics, some ok, some not so ok.  Not the best image resolution.

Engine is locked.  Brother has not decided yet.  He was the last one to put new sleeves in it, so he's familiar with its issues.  He's researching and thinking it over.  He originally thought he would soak it for awhile, may still do that.

Yes, but the 1952 did not come with a snap coupler.  After 1954 it was available as an add-on.  Since we have no snap coupler implements, only those that came with the original pin hitch and lift mechanism, I wasn't planning on converting to snap coupler at this time.  I was wanting to make do with the original drawbar, but because the cross member goes all the way across between the lift arms, the 3 point lift arms would probably hit it on the lower end unless I mount the front pivot up quite high (to get the 3 point down to the recommended 7-8 inches from the ground).

Sorry, I've looked at that one many times but missed the tiny inset image showing a second version with the snap coupler loop having a tiny pin receiver welded on top.  The images on the OKT site are mostly too small for me to read without a magnifying glass.  But I also may have not looked too hard because it says "light duty" and does not look to me to be well designed/made.  "light duty" would mean category 0 to me.  It's hard for me to tell without dimensions, but it appears to have very narrow spacing of the cat 0 version.  It does say cat 1 on the OKT site.  Another thing is the arms appear to be fixed width.  They're supposed to swing a little (maybe one swings and one doesnt).  I'm no expert in 3 point design, but at this point, I'm not liking that one.  Maybe I could be talked into it.  

the second design is one that you bolt a cross bar to your  drawbar, under the axle.. then mount the two lower 3 point arms to it.... There are other ways to do a 3 point, but the only AFTERMARKET are one of these two designs... You can do it different, but it will be "home made".

Well, darn, this is the only Cross I've seen that has a CA non-snap-coupler option:   https://oktractor.com/zen/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1_13_195&products_id=204&zenid=r6hptdv2h5ihrrccehhp5nluv3" rel="nofollow - https://oktractor.com/zen/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1_13_195&products_id=204&zenid=r6hptdv2h5ihrrccehhp5nluv3

I went to the Cross website itself and found no hitches at all.

OK Tractor has this one with an option premade for non-snap-coupler (that I missed before).  Like I said, didn't like the design of it, but when time comes I might choose the easy out.

I'll add that OK Tractor seems to have this one for about half the price of Steiner...

One of dislikes about the design is that I would prefer that both arms pivot separately.  In the snap coupler design, pivot of the fixed arm is relative to the moveable snap coupler tongue.  In the non-snap coupler design, it has a pipe welded across the tongue.  Unless there is a lot of slop in the size of the hole, there would not be proper pivoting of the "fixed" arm.  And I don't think you want a lot of slop in the hole for the pin hitch.

Yes, but this would be the non-snap coupler version with a weld on mod which would prevent left to right swing as well as rotational swing.

I'm up against my spending limit for this year, but when I do this, provided I can devise a suitable drawbar mount modification (keeping the existing 1952 drawbar as is if possible), I'm leaning towards a drawbar mount version for the WD45, perhaps without the sway block (my drawbar mod might suffice for sway block).  I tried sourcing the individual parts (arms, drawbar mount), but that cost was way higher than getting the equivalent kit and throwing away unneeded parts :(

possible hitch design for snap coupler loop.

Yes.  A slightly better design might be an add-on bracket that sandwiches the snap coupler tongue (top bracket and bottom bracket, with perhaps loose fitting bolts, one right in the inside circular bend of the tongue, one at the rear.  Then the pin sleeve would be welded onto either bracket.  That would preserve the integrity of the tongue as well.  Being loose fitting, it could give you enough range of motion at least side to side.

De-brushed...baby steps.  Several days soaking in atf, still locked tite.

make sure when in Neutral that the tire will move.. That tells you the transmission is not locked up also..

Some selected progress pics.  New front and rear tires.  New 12 inch rims on back with 13.6 Titans.  New tires on front.  Rims and front pedestal were sand blasted as was rear hubs and final drive near the wheels.  One front rim was welded by dad in the mid 1960s.  It's amazing that there's been almost no major deterioration since then.  Only a few tiny pin holes near the original welds.  The rear hubs and locks cleaned up very nicely.  Only one of the lock bearing surfaces was slightly pock marked.  All were very usable.  All reassembled with anti-seize lube.  The locks locked up tight.  I was amazed how smoothly they operated.  I stumbled upon the lock/lug wrench in the garage, and also the associated 5/8 inch lever bar.  I painted them orange so I can remember them :)  Everything was sand blasted primed and painted.  Some key areas like inside the front rims have approximately 10 coats rust reformer and of paint in total.  The inside of the front rims were a bit flakey (rust) but with angle grinder, wire brush, and sand blaster, they came out decent and smooth.  Tire guy had no qualms with them.  I may eventually replace the front rims, or maybe just the welded one which doesn't look as nice.  The tractor has been moved to a garage for engine assessment.  It will get rebuilt regardless, but there may need to be a section of the block re-welded.  Dad welded it in the early 70's (or thereabouts) but did not have the right welding equipment on-site at the time so it continued to have a slow coolant leak.  Believe the weld is intact though.

The starter motor was removed for unknown reason, but I tested it and it is fine with not a single issue with the gear teeth or throwout.  Was inside the garage for 40 years.   The original generator is another story.  Was in pieces with coils toasted and loose.  Believe I can get it rewound locally.  I inspected part of the flywheel which seems fine where I could view.  I think the transmission is ok but could only get it into reverse for the trailer ride.  One brake seems functional, sort of, the other seems to be rubbing full time but not forcefully and the pedal won't depress beyond an inch or so.  I can see a broken spring which may be wedged in the way.  Steering play seems no worse than I remember it.  I remember that the front rim welds were heavy enough to cause a little wobble at full speed.  I found the ammeter and control panel.  The control panel  cleaned up nicely, but all switches and ammeter were toast so I'll be rebuilding that, cleaning up the starter (maybe more if needed), and the generator if I can.  I'll probably use stainless fasteners in key exposed places.  Nearly all electrical wiring seems haphazard.  It seems to have had a regulator installed at some point, but no reference in my service manual so I'll have to research that further.

It was not uncommon to remove the light switch and put a 6 volt regulator near the generator and let it do the job.... If the battery was changed to 12v, then yes, you need a regulator to handle the job.

I found front and rear cultivators, disc, plow, and planter.  The cultivators are in the worst shape probably.  Lots of trees growing through it.  One of the sweeps is exactly in the middle of a 1.5 foot diameter scotch pine tree at ground level.  It seems to be sideways.  Couldnt see enough to see if its twisted or just on its side.  It didn't quite logically compute.

It's 6 volt.  Plan to keep it that way.  The regulator was mounted just behind the starter motor.  I don't remember it at all, so maybe my uncle added it in the 70s.

if you need a new wiring system for that project, visit our website. We do everything electrical and touch on each area of the Tractor. I do Carb, Generator, Alternator, 3 position switch and Starter rebuilding. Be happy to help you out with anything....

Steve@B&B

bb-customcircuits.com

Already bought one of your rebuilt switches.  Generator was toast, being completely rebuilt and converted to regulator style operation.  Starter was in very good condition, but I opted to have him recondition it as well.  Fort Worth Starter and Generator.  I'll be doing the new wiring harness myself.  Already have it.

While engine block was out to the machine shop, I prepared the front half.  Sheet metal was taken to a body shop for some rip and dent repairs.  Installed a new throwout bearing although the old one wasnt really very bad.  Clutch plate was relatively new.  Also ran a new wiring harness.

Crankshaft had some minor pitting but overall wasnt that bad.  Machined everywhere needed.  Had too much end play when we got it back so we sent it back out for more work.  Originally, the machine shop documented the wrong specs on the work tag so we ordered the wrong bearings and had to do that over as well.  Those issues were the source of most of the delay in getting the engine going.  I had high hopes, but it didn't happen.  Work is ongoing as time permits.  No the M doesn't run either :(

After I got most of the front half ready for the engine install (minus sheet metal), I replaced the brake pads.  This is the "good" one.   The left one was rusted in two at the hinge.  Kind of a chore to get all the rat and mud dauber nests out through those cubby holes.  Must have pulled 2 gallons of junk out of there.  The drums should probably be worked on but I think they'll be fine besides wearing the pads out a little faster.  There was plenty of metal left.  Probably because it hasn't had properly adjusted brakes since the 60s (i.e. little contact).

I was able to get the plow up out of the dirt and on some temporary blocks (I ran out of time and just used whatever I could find).  The frame looks like it will clean up ok.  The plowshare/moldboards are broken.  The pieces seem to be lying around in the garage, could probably be welded up (or replaced).

Here's the cultivator previously mentioned as having a tree growing around it.  That will be fun to remove.

And the disk.  Didn't get a picture of the planter (forgot when I decided to de-tree the bulldozer).

3 coats of primer and 3 coats of orange.  4 and more coats of primer or orange in strategic areas.

Offsetting was sometimes used in small engines when no valve rotation device was present to achieve rotation.  Offsetting is not supposed to be needed with a valve rotation device.  It certainly should not be so far off that it's barely contacting the valve stem and leaving giant divots because of force being limited to a tiny contact area.

I just came in from my morning fall ride on mine. Took the dog for a walk, so figured I'd give Allis a run too.

I just posted updates a few days ago.  It's not back together yet but mostly finished the engine rebuild internals.  I'm working on some hydraulic system mods at the moment.  I'm creating a pedestal out of a trailer pintle hitch and a hitch extension to get me the required height above the tires.  I've got the base complete except for painting.  I'll start on the platform for mounting the spools tomorrow when a connector arrives and i can determine the width of the side by side spool sets/valves.  I don't expect any significant progress before the spring.  I hate working in the cold :(

Awesome! I'll be watching for your future updates. You might teach me a few tricks to do to my CA.

Progress 10/30/2023:  Designing a removable hydraulic console intended to bolt to the left side fender.  The console consists of a pintle hitch, and a hitch extender mounted vertically with a custom tray resting on top of the extension which is removable.  Two single acting valves mount to the side, a 4 spool valve set on the top.  It sticks out over the tractor tire for space reasons.  It may or may not fit exactly where I designed it to sit (may be too close to the seat), but I can move it forward or backward if needed.  The tray itself is designed to slide left or right.  I still have some plumbing work to go for the return.  Perhaps a little goofy, but fun anyway (I'm retired, I got time) :)  It weighs a ton...

The back view showing the mechanism for sliding the tray left or right.

It includes optional hose supports that can be added or removed when the dual acting spool valves on top are used.  

Closeup of a hose support.  Since the dual acting valve hoses will come off straight up, this supports them at about 16 inches (can be lowered) to prevent sharp bends.

The bottom (pintle mount) section will be bolted to the fender wall.  I haven't drilled those holes (in the pintle bracket) yet so I can determine the best position.  I measured it and know very close where the holes will go but I made the bracket a little longer in case I need to adjust it right or left.  The top section is the removable part via the hitch pin.  I'm trying not to physically modify the tractor, just using existing bolt patterns as much as possible.  The threaded rod is designed to allow the tray to slide left or right (it is then tightened in that left or right position).  I was thinking ahead to deconflict it with my idea for a roll bar/canopy mount that mounts to the axle but will rise just outside the fender wall (so the wheels will have to be slightly spun out).  When that roll bar/canopy is installed, the tray will have to be slid right/forward to deconflict (since it sticks out over the tire).  The pintle hitch is mounted to a piece of 4 inch x 4 inch angle iron that I cut out the left and right floor sections.  The right section had to be cut to deconflict with the brake lever.  The left side was only cut for symmetry.  The forward fender bolt is around 4 inches from hole to back of brake lever.  The other fender bolt is 11 inches behind the forward fender bolt.  I have about an inch of play to adjust the position to deconflict with the brake lever and the seat.  

The console is fairly well balanced.  There is little stress on the mount when you operate the spool levers which have quite strong springs.  That was one worry with only having two mounting bolts.  I can add a horizontal support later if needed.