WD-45 turbo kit

Now please bear with me.  I have been working on turbo engines for a long time.  None are what you would call high performance engines, they are all high efficient industrial engines and big.  Some have turbos that weight 2000 lbs or more. 

I have also read up about turboing small gas engines and found two different camps, one is for large turbos but they spool up late in the game but give high outputs.  This is what most cars do, even the little 2.2L dodge turbos. 

For a working tractor however or a pickup/work vehicle there are very few gas turbo vehicles out there.  The guys that I have read about said that if you do turbo one you want to pick a turbo that goes on an a performance engine about 60percent of the displacement of the engine that you want.  So, say for example, a 226 *.6 would be 135 which is about 2.1 liters.  So if you took a 2.2 liter dodge turbo/wastegate and put it on a wd45, you would have a much better "working tractor" system.  It wouldn't be a powerhouse necessarily for pulling but would have better efficiency and some more power without lag, especially midrange and at high idle.  There surely has to be a way to put a downdraft carb after the turbo instead of before like this guy does. 

Also, I have studied and sized oil bath air cleaners before.  They are set up for a certain CFM based on 1 cylinders intake and don't work well at idle (don't get enough oil pulled up) or at higher cfms(pull oil into the intake instead up condensing/precipitating back to the cup)  I would think the kit/turbo would suck oil out and there fore dirt with it without going to the next size up aircleaner. 

Seems like the size of the above mention kit would only power at high idle and even then wouldn't come alive unless you really opened the governor up. 

The smaller tubo's I was mentioning would be for farm use, not pulling, at least not dry ice type pulling. 

I imagine that the 2.0 vw turbo would work well for that but if you want to pull and are opening up the governor you would want a bigger turbo to pull with.  Something off of equal displacement or at least 80 percent displacement. 

Problems with blowing through many carbs is that you cause float/needle seat problems.  You have to pressurize the bowl as well to equalize the pressures or you have problems.  Make sure you have good throttle shaft seal as well.

Updrafts  do siphon fuel,in  your earlier post  stated you wanted to blow thru, and there lies the problem.  Like fire brick states the updraft needle and seat won't be happy with that arrangement.   A downdraft would be more better, but I see more plumbing and some fancy governor linkage to make it work, and probably a fuel pump, as gravity might not be reliable. You can do it Mitch.

hurst i was just thinking about a low rpm diesel turbo making boost at gas tractor rpms. I do however think 1200 f is 1200f  on any internal combustion exhaust.  garry i was thinking that the piston created a depression wich is measured in vacuum making the  air inlet pressure entering the updraft 14.7psia on a naturally aspirated .so at seven pounds of boost a seven pound fuel pump should keep things equal . most down draft carbs that are made into blow thru carbs have the boosters and venturi  worked over to create  the correct signal .

The way the VW turbos work is they have a computer controlled solenoid valve that opens and closes the vanes on the variable geometry turbo to control boost.  It may be possible to find a pressure controlled actuator that will fit and work properly.  I feel like the earlier turbos would be a better fit, as they are wastegated turbos and cost considerably less.  Maybe something like a Garrett GT15 or a KKK K03 would be good.  These were used on early gas and diesel turbo VWs and are some of the smallest turbos around.

Another thought on the carb issue when blowing through is box it up. Remember the old Paxton superchargers? On carbureted installations they had a box that the carb was in.

Brian Jasper co. Ia wrote: Another thought on the carb issue when blowing through is box it up. Remember the old Paxton superchargers? On carbureted installations they had a box that the carb was in.

There is a line some where on what psi you can boost and not box it up.  I want to say its 7psi?  Any thing higher and you need to.  Under that if you plug the bowl vent and pressurize it,  it will work if your carb is in ok shape. 

If you are worried about timing maps, why not go to a gm throttle body, a crank sensor  and tie every thing together with a megasquirt Mplanky?  You can adjust the timing galore as well as the injection.

What RPMS are you shooting for?  That is going to be the biggest deciding factor in turbo size.  Do you care if the power is mostly on top? 

Good - My estimate is based on 7psi (Super M) and what I have observed at antique tractor pulls.  They just dont seem to have much add power(dont seem to spool up fast enough).  I assume in field conditions that the extra power is there, since load conditions occur at a slower rate. - AL

I emailed these guys, the price is 1550$ plus shipping.

I see what your saying Al,most pulls around hear though let you be 10 to 20% over on rpms but there not going to let a turbo 45 pull in the stock class anyway just hope for a 4000# open class.I am thinkin twice about getting the kit. I have a fresh engine in a wc that has 45 crank with overbore pistons but I used WD pistons to get compression up and it's pretty close to 9to1. I am wondering if thats to much comp. for a gas turbo setup because they talk quite a bit about having low comp.but then again the diesel is 16to1. What do you guys think?

good fuel 110 or better ,timing backed off a little she would be fine at 9to1  . run it on methanol and you can have a turbo with 12.1 pistons. ps i would run a msd ignition with boost  timing control or a three step that  retard timing as boost rose .

Edited by mlpankey - 12 Oct 2010 at 3:32pm