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DrAllis 
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
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 Posted: 05 Feb 2026 at 9:57am |
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M & W were 7.5 to 1 compression with a 4 1/8" bore. Don't get confused here. It was two things: bore and compression. Raising a 4 inch bore from 7.25 to 7.5 to 1 compression would indeed be a minimal increase in HP. WD45's can use D-17 pistons and sleeves and just like M & W's give the crankshaft a real workout if it is a plowing/discing tractor. Just the compression increase on a WD45 to 7.25 to 1 would yield 5 to 7 HP I think at 1400 RPM. I'd have to check my engine specs book at home, I'm going from memory.
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55allis
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Joined: 30 Jun 2020
Location: Griswold Iowa
Points: 1295
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Posted: 19 Feb 2026 at 11:57pm |
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Got a Reliance kit a couple days ago and now ready to get the block from machine shop (he’s still trying to get me to do the secondary sleeves).
He got new cam bearings and got the block maniflex and it checked out okay.
What should the oil pressure be being rebuilt?
Looking at new gauges and there are a lot of options!!
Notice the new pistons have a note to run on a dyno within minutes of first starting it, does that have to be done or is there another trick that’s better?
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1955 AC WD45 diesel with D262 repower, 1949 AC WD, 1963 A-C D17 series 3, several Allis garden tractors 
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Les Kerf
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Joined: 08 May 2020
Location: Idaho
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Posted: Yesterday at 11:08am |
 DrAllis wrote:
Installed a lot of sleeves in some pretty questionable G-226 blocks using RTV silicone and have never had one come back even decades after the OH.
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Hmmm... is there any reason to not do this for extra insurance against leakage in a routine rebuild?
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DrAllis
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Posted: Yesterday at 11:16am |
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I've only ever used the RTV as a repair, and I have had good success with. If I remember correctly, 60 years ago, I think my local A-C dealership slathered on "white lead" paste on the sleeve Orings ??? I had never been taught that trick. I don't even know what white lead is. I've always used mazola corn oil/vegetable oil. At Caterpillar we use Crisco shortening. Lower sleeve bore damage on those 4-bangers is simply from people using straight water and/or never ever changing flushing the cooling system to purge out any sediment. it's the crap laying in the bottom of the coolant cavity in the block that erodes the cast iron away.
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55allis
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Joined: 30 Jun 2020
Location: Griswold Iowa
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Posted: 13 hours 13 minutes ago at 11:02pm |
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I googled the white lead and it is very toxic (of course, it’s lead!!) and commonly used in white paint before 1978 and sometimes used as a sealant on ships.
It is very strict on who can get it now.
This info is from AI so take as you want.
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1955 AC WD45 diesel with D262 repower, 1949 AC WD, 1963 A-C D17 series 3, several Allis garden tractors
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DrAllis
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Posted: 12 hours 58 minutes ago at 11:17pm |
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Oil pressure on a G-226 full-flow oiling system is 30-35 psi at full throttle hot. This assumes good cam bearings, main & rod bearings and a healthy oil pump.
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55allis
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Posted: 12 hours 49 minutes ago at 11:26pm |
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Only questioning thing is the oil pump… I checked the pump out and couldn’t see or feel anything bad/worn.
Everything else you mention is new.
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1955 AC WD45 diesel with D262 repower, 1949 AC WD, 1963 A-C D17 series 3, several Allis garden tractors
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DrAllis
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Posted: 12 hours 42 minutes ago at 11:33pm |
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If the drive shaft shows no wear up at the top after removing it from the body, it's probably fine. Make sure the pressure regulator spool is free to slide.
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55allis
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Posted: 12 hours 26 minutes ago at 11:49pm |
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Will check!!
Thanks!!
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1955 AC WD45 diesel with D262 repower, 1949 AC WD, 1963 A-C D17 series 3, several Allis garden tractors
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SteveM C/IL
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Shelbyville IL
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Posted: 2 hours 9 minutes ago at 10:06am |
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White lead is used to check tooth contact pattern on hypoid ring and pinion. On the shelf 50yrs ago.
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Codger
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Joined: 23 Dec 2020
Location: Utopia
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Posted: 1 hour 38 minutes ago at 10:37am |
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White Lead paste was very common in the 70's but extinct now. K&N used to have it in tubs, and squeeze tubes. Anybody building axles used it a lot. Anymore, I thicken gear lube with talcum powder into a paste and bush it on a few ring gear teeth to check contact patch in both power, and coast side of the Ring, and Pinion. I then wash it off with mineral spirits and a rag. Probably don't need to but always have.
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That's All Folks!
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Clay
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
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Posted: 1 hour 11 minutes ago at 11:04am |
When I rebuilt the rear differential on my '82 F-250, I bought some GM AC Delco 10-5055 Gear Marking Compound from a Chevy dealer. Works great, when checking gear pattern. A nice hamburger shape pattern spaced evenly on the gear faces is what is required. Use a dial indicator to check the backlash (0.005 - 0.014) between teeth of pinion and ring gear, on a D-17.
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