Later d17 saved from fence row

You absolutely want 8 to 1 compression for the best power and best fuel economy. When you get a 6.5 to 1 kit (which most of them are)  there is less HP and they use more gas.     There is a reason there aren't drain plugs on the final drives. It is because rocks can roll in between the rim and the final drive pan and over time break off the drain plug that shouldn't be there. One quart of oil disappears quickly and then a perfectly good final drive is now toast. You will change the oil one time. It will be the last time. No drain plug needed.

I don't see a C/R listed.

Replace this engine from one from a Gleaner E that is running.

WF owner wrote: I guess what scares me about buying this, or any tractor that isn't running, is why it was parked years ago. After spending a lot of money getting it running, other unknown problems could surface.

Like cars, the tractors had a few things wrong like wiring and such that were annoyances but not fatal. Many things naturally fixed as a part of getting the tractor in shape to run again, like replacing wires.

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If the rest is junk there might be a rebuilt engine for sale….
I don’t think the back end is bad.
Pulled the carb apart today and it’s very clean, even the needle wasn’t even sticky!

I got a plan for tires now, going to pull the 16.9s off my wd, put them on the d17 and put my new set of 13.6R28 deep tread Firestones on the wd. Last year about this time I got one heck of a deal on a set of brand new Firestones and boy they got tread!

NO.  A-C never used anything but 4 inch bore in that series of engine. They had four different compression ratios (6.5 to 1.....7.25 to 1......8.0 to 1.....8.25 to 1)  but never were 4 1/8" bore.

I wonder if it was rebuilt not long before it got parked?
Maybe I could do it right with putting new rings on all of them and put 2 new sleeves.
I think I will pull the pan and check out underneath before anything is set in stone.

6.5 to 1 compression ratio makes 125 psi cranking compression........7.25 to 1 makes 145 psi.........8.0 to 1 makes 165 psi.......8.25 to 1 makes 170 psi.

Farm Equipment Knowledge section....page one.....near the bottom..... "Compression ratios for 226 engines".    These are for A-C pistons only. After-market manufacturers has to make their own claims, which many are very low.

Edited by DrAllis - 21 hours 9 minutes ago at 6:51pm

Thanks Doc
I did find it, looks like I have to pull a piston and measure to find out.
I did some calculations and came up that with 4.125” bore would make it a 254 cubic inch engine, no clue if that right but I thought that was interesting.
Looks like to get the highest compression ratio possible would be to get piston for a 175 or d17 lp

It's fairly difficult to calculate your compression ratio. I did it a few years ago. You have to get the pison to the top of it's stroke and measure to the top of the stroke and calculate that volumn. You have to know the thickness of your head gasket and calculate that. Then you also have to calculate the volumn of the dish in the piston. Dr helped me wiht this. You need to get a piece of cut glass and drill a small hole in it. Put some grease on the piston edges to seal it. Then take a suringe and fill the dish through the hole.
There other things I"m missing, but even after all this it's easy to be off a little bit.

First I need to get the engine to come completely loose (I got it to wiggle a bit) and that might involve the two new sleeves+rings.

Here’s a picture of the piston in it.
Also surfed the web and found this chart for a single cylinder.

It’s just an example, not for this engine.
I was going to erase what is written on it and change it to the 226 engine.

Edited by 55allis - 38 minutes ago at 3:22pm