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First AC may be my last

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Sugarmaker View Drop Down
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Joined: 12 Jul 2013
Location: Albion PA
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sugarmaker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Jun 2019 at 6:19pm
C-Ried-Mac,
 Good job staying with the Allis. 
You will get there! Pictures are always welcome. The link picture you posted was small.
Regards,
 Chris
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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DaveKamp View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DaveKamp Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Jun 2019 at 11:19pm
Originally posted by C-Reid-Mac C-Reid-Mac wrote:

  I reconnected fuel line, opened valve to sediment bowl, opened drain on bottom of carb, gas immediately began flowing through at a steady stream. I was counting 30 seconds and as I got to 20 the stream became intermittent and was just a drip by 25.


Ah HAH!

Okay... before you try anything else... open it again... and see if it does same thing.

IF IT DOES... Remove the fuel tank cap.  if it starts flowing again, you have a bad fuel cap vent!

If it does not...

Remove the fuel line from carbeurator.  Does it start flowing?  if so, there's some piece of gunk wandering around between the carb inlet and the float valve... OR... there's something plugging up your fuel bowl petcock (and the float bowl is probably filling).

I had a buddy that had a devil of a time with his little IH tractor... it LOVED to mow hillsides, but as soon as he got to the flat area atop of the hill, it would lean out and stall.  He pulled out the carb, adjusted the float level, and opened up the mixture adjustment screw, because obviously this was 'the altitude', right?

After doing that same thing over several times, and having the same result, he resigned to being insane, and opened up the fuel tank, to find three saturated beech nuts rolling around in the bottom of the tank.  As long as he was on the hill, them beech nuts would roll away from the fuel pickup, but as soon as he got on the flats, they'd roll down and cover the sediment bowl inlet... LOL
Ten Amendments, Ten Commandments, and one Golden Rule solve most every problem. Citrus hand-cleaner with Pumice does the rest.
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JohnCO View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JohnCO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Jun 2019 at 1:05am
Thanks Dave Kamp, for the explanation of the firing order and reason for it.  I had never considered that.  Also for the explanation of why the manifold can start to leak.  All good info!

"If at first you don't succeed, get a bigger hammer"
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Bob D. (La) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bob D. (La) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Jun 2019 at 3:35am

I reconnected fuel line, opened valve to sediment bowl, opened drain on bottom of carb, gas immediately began flowing through at a steady stream. I was counting 30 seconds and as I got to 20 the stream became intermittent and was just a drip by 25.

If it still stops flowing after 20 to 25 seconds disconnect gas line from carb and verify you have good flow to carb. Make sure you also verify it's not fuel cap as Dave said. Before blaming it on carb, always make sure you have verified good fuel supply to carb.
When you find yourself in a hole,PUT DOWN THE SHOVEL!!!
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David (in Mi.) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote David (in Mi.) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Jun 2019 at 4:32am
I also want to thank Dave Kamp for a very good explaination of air flow, manifolds, electrical. I was impressed with all that knowledge that was explained in a way that I could easily understand. Thank you again. Also like to thank everone on here for trying so hard to help this poor fellow out.
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C-Reid-Mac View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote C-Reid-Mac Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Jun 2019 at 10:14pm
UPDATE -- I was motivated by this panel and bought a service manual online (from the place mentioned above). I got a digital copy and it is a pdf of the typewritten manual -- very cool (old) looking. I read about and studied the carburetor for a few days. I decided I was ready to proceed, with my first foray being to take the fuel line from the carb and see if gas flowed etc. I had stopped at the parts place and learned that a carb kit would cost me $20 and was mentally preparing to go step by step through the process. The parts house wanted the number off the carb so I came to farm and - yep -- the number is on the back side of the carb.  Backed tractor into barn (died, bucked and spit at me for the 5 to 8 minutes it took for that 1 minute trip), found a black mat from back of a Ford Escape and put it on ground under carb (for any stray pieces that might fall). I went to garage (50 feet away) looking for some box end wrenches. When I returned the barn lot gate was wide open (it was very windy) and as I was calling my dog and starting to close the gate, Big Al started "on his own"!  HOLY CRAP! - Now I have a GHOST tractor!! -- But wait -- someone is in the seat - my tractor guy came to pick up BA and take him to his little shop. I told him all I had done, he agreed that Al was not getting fuel properly (died, bucked and spit with him until he got on the downhill drive and coasted down to his waiting trailer) and  -- 3 days later I hear Big Al coming up the driveway (in my office on second floor of farm house). By time I get down there TG is walking back down to his truck - so I called him later and he told me that he found a "whirleybird" (apparently that's what they call maple leaves in Kentucky) stuck in the inlet to the sediment bowl. He drained gas tank, looked around with a flex light and said it was rust free. However, the carburetor, in which he had put a new kit before I bought BA last November, was "rusty" and filthy. He bought a new kit and installed that, made sure all the gas was flowing and I got the pasture mowed. I asked him what I owed him and he said, "well, the kit cost me $20 and probably $20 for me coming to get it and bring it back" -- Sounded a bit low to me -- I gave him $60.  

Ok -- so now we move forward. Big Al pulled the six foot mower up and down my hills, through some taller grass and got done. Upon first starting up it sounded to me like he was "missing" just a touch, kinda warmed out of that and mowed like a champ - til the third day. On the third day, when he was having to navigate the steepest part of the hill he began to act like he was going to choke down, I noticed that the temp gauge was right at the top of the green (right on line between green and "hot white".  I see no other evidence that he is overheating (no steam, hear now leaks, etc.) I keep watching, he kinda clears his throat and I was able to finish the mowing (only had about 10 minutes to finish). About 4 days later I mowed around the barn for only about 40 minutes -- he did ok with a couple of "coughs".  I bought 4 Autolite 295 plugs back in the beginning of this saga as was suggested earlier in this thread. I'm thinking that a change of spark plugs might help if the carb was that "mucked up"?  

I got off and felt the regulator -- It was hot, it was not "sizzling hot" but was hotter than I wanted to keep my hand on. Would that play into Big Al running hot?  I see no numbers on the regulator but did study the service manual about replacing it. Should I do spark plugs first and then reg or vice versa? 

I used Al today for about 20 minutes pulling the mower as a sled to bring some downed tree limbs to a burn pile. We have had torrential rain here and he was outside through the most recent rains. He turned over 3 or 4 times before firing the first go round, but after that he fired right up every time (4 restarts) I started him in the field. His temp was barely in the green (on the cool end). PTO was not on and load was not heavy and I was on a gently sloping area of pasture. (Thunder is rattling the windows as more thunderstorms power wash the roof of the front veranda outside my office.)  

I apologize for taking this long to update -- took a while to get back in the field and verify that Big Al was indeed going to be able to get the work done. I patted him on the hood today, apologized for leaving him out in the rain (again) and told him I was going to let you guys know he was alive and well.  Thanks again for all your initial input. I look foward to learning from this forum and Big Al himself. Keep Moving Forward. 
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Sugarmaker View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sugarmaker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Jun 2019 at 6:53am
C-Reid-Mac,
Sounds about right to me! You may still have some gremlins in the mix somewhere too. possibly timing, or even points? They like it when they get out and do some work. 
Thanks for the update on Al.
Pictures always good too.
Regards,
 Chris
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mdm1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Jun 2019 at 7:03am
I believe if you have old tractors there will always be something to fix on them. But there is nothing more gratifying when you fix the problem and it works. Don't be afraid to ask the people here for help and advice as they are more than willing. One has to love the old tractors or why would you have one! (just my thought)
Everything is impossible until someone does it! WD45-trip loader 1947 c w/woods belly mower, 1939 B, #3 sickle mower 1944 B, 2 1948 G's. Misc other equipment that my wife calls JUNK!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lonn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Jun 2019 at 8:58pm
Originally posted by C-Reid-Mac C-Reid-Mac wrote:

only have experience with a Ford 8N (not a positive ground)
All 8n were positive ground. If yours is negative ground then it has been converted and you can do the same with your D15. As far as me being the welcoming committee I gotta be me 😈
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