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8070 motor fail

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Jwmac7060 View Drop Down
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Joined: 04 Jan 2014
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jwmac7060 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: 8070 motor fail
    Posted: 30 Aug 2021 at 10:51pm
I saw one up at Sumerix that had been switched from the junk ambach to a Roosa master. I personally would've rather has a Roosa
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SteveM C/IL View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SteveM C/IL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Aug 2021 at 8:10am
Been some games played with that one....8000's didn't have roosa pumps.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GARY1967 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Aug 2021 at 11:50am
Hello found rebuilt motor on Craigslist. Not mine.  Not sure if same engine your looking for or not. 

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SteveM C/IL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Aug 2021 at 11:25pm
send me a PM with a cell or email and I will send you pic of page in manual on flywheel demensions.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SteveM C/IL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Aug 2021 at 10:20am
Need input from Doc or Mack or anyone else who knows but it seems like they shortened the dimensions up a bit for higher hp tractors.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bhuffaker1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Aug 2021 at 1:12pm
Thank you so much SteveM. I ordered a new pressure plate!  I am going to see if the local machine shop can resurface the flywheel.  Would you happen to have the specs?  I do not have a service manual.

THanks

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SteveM C/IL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Aug 2021 at 12:43pm
I'm no authority. MACK says you replace that pressure plate,not machine it. the flywheel is only thing that gets machinedand it needs done to specs. It's in the service manual.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bhuffaker1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Aug 2021 at 9:16am
I am knee deep now in the swap.  Not terrible but definately learning alot.

Have a question:

Should I have this flywheel resurfaced?  Machine shop is over  a month behind and I was hoping to get this back together before then?  Here ae some picture of it..  

THOUGHTS??
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bhuffaker1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Jun 2021 at 12:46am
No that is not me..  I am about 4 hours away from Delta.  
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GM Guy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Jun 2021 at 12:33am
another consideration is a takeout engine from a late N6 combine, swap necessary parts around to bolt it in the tractor.

Are you near Delta and have a neighbor with a airplane cabled down near his shop?
Gleaner: the properly engineered and built combine.

If you need parts for your Gleaner, we are parting out A's through L2's, so we may be able to help.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SteveM C/IL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Jun 2021 at 10:59pm
You can probably use a fuel on/off cable from a 7000 series...you'll have to fab a way to use yor existing throttle cable but it's not a deal breaker
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CORLEWFARM Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Jun 2021 at 7:34pm
If you keep the rosa you'll won't need to change cover.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bhuffaker1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Jun 2021 at 7:09pm
I M Planning on keeping the Rosa Master pump as I like it better that the touchy Bosch pump if that is what you are talking about?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bhuffaker1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Jun 2021 at 7:08pm
Originally posted by CORLEWFARM CORLEWFARM wrote:

Your gonna have less hp,and if you change pumps you will have to change front plate and front cover. You will also have to change manifold or turbo for the muffler and the hole in the hood, and if you keep the 7050 pump you will have to change throttle linkage and put a kill cable.

I understand I will have less HP.  

Sorry I am so ignorant but what do you mean by the front plate and the front cover?

Hopefully I can figure the rest out. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote CORLEWFARM Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Jun 2021 at 6:28pm
Your gonna have less hp,and if you change pumps you will have to change front plate and front cover. You will also have to change manifold or turbo for the muffler and the hole in the hood, and if you keep the 7050 pump you will have to change throttle linkage and put a kill cable.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bhuffaker1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Jun 2021 at 12:26pm
Originally posted by ajl ajl wrote:

I also own a an 8070 but with only 3500 hrs.  Given that it is a 4 x 4 it has value.  If I did not want to deal with the rebuild then I would sell it as is and someone else will rebuild.  Then I would proceed to take the money from the sale and the savings from the cost of repairs and buy something with the 8.3 Cummins already in it.    A White workhorse comes to mind.   Would not spend time and effort swapping a different motor in it.  Another option would be to go to a 2wd for baler work which would be cheaper.

Much easier said than done.  Around here a Non-running Allis is yard art...  I would have a hard time selling it if it was running.  I can't imagine selling a blown engine Allis on tractor house and getting much money for it....   If I can get it to run and work again for under 5k that is what I am going to have to do. Hope that makes sense.  
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SteveM C/IL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Jun 2021 at 10:28pm
...or a CIH  with the Cummins and PS. 7000?series? Neighbor has  3 (2 fwa) older units but seem solid.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ajl Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Jun 2021 at 9:41pm
I also own a an 8070 but with only 3500 hrs.  Given that it is a 4 x 4 it has value.  If I did not want to deal with the rebuild then I would sell it as is and someone else will rebuild.  Then I would proceed to take the money from the sale and the savings from the cost of repairs and buy something with the 8.3 Cummins already in it.    A White workhorse comes to mind.   Would not spend time and effort swapping a different motor in it.  Another option would be to go to a 2wd for baler work which would be cheaper.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bhuffaker1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Jun 2021 at 8:09pm
After much thought and looking into many options I have decided the best decision for me is to go with the 7050 motor.  I feel confident that it was being represented correctly and should go right in with out any problems.

If any of you have any ideas on what I should do to this motor prior to install or after installing please share.

Thanks again for all of your advise.  I have learned so much.

Brad
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote injpumpEd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Jun 2021 at 10:37am
Many engines have injectors that can be installed "backwards" so to speak. The Roosa pumps on about 150hp tractors and up were kinda past their comfort zone. The M100 is a good pump, kinda complicated by design, but IH tractors been running them since 71. They did allow AC engines to smoke a little less. For some reason though, the AC engine is much more sensitive to governor surging with the M100's and even more so with the Bosch A pump inline. The one or two A pump conversions I've been involved in had surging issues, which is why I cannot do those at this time. I'm no engineer, and sure don't have time to listen to callers complaining about a surge issues. The biggest issue giving the AC M100's a black eye is poor quality rebuilds. 
210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bhuffaker1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Jun 2021 at 9:23am
Originally posted by injpumpEd injpumpEd wrote:

Correct, return line towards valve cover on engines with American Bosch injectors. Sometimes guys put them the other way thinking the returns are easier to get to, not realizing the holes in the tip are at an angle to compensate for the injector sitting in the head at an angle. Allis Chalmers built injectors are foolproof, inlet on side, return on top. 

It is a very touchy injection system.  This is why Shops around here do not like to work on these engines and hence my dilemma.  The Rosa master pump and injectors in my opinion was  by far a superb system.  I know understand that AC wanted to not make as much black smoke and start a little easier but those fuel systems just seemed to work and work well.  Not near as touchy.  Who makes an injector that can be put in backwards and still somewhat work? 

I have learned so much from each of you and thank you for your time and input.  I hope to make a decision in the next few days....
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Kevin in WA Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Jun 2021 at 9:07am
Even the early 8010 with the Roosa pump still had Ambac injectors from the factory.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SteveM C/IL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Jun 2021 at 9:57pm
If it's got an Ambac pump...it has Ambac injectors...fuel line on top,return on side.

Edited by SteveM C/IL - 06 Jun 2021 at 9:58pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote automaticdave Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Jun 2021 at 7:19pm
How can I tell which injection nozzles are on my 8010 that has a M-100 pump on it? Thanks Dave
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote injpumpEd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Jun 2021 at 6:55pm
Correct, return line towards valve cover on engines with American Bosch injectors. Sometimes guys put them the other way thinking the returns are easier to get to, not realizing the holes in the tip are at an angle to compensate for the injector sitting in the head at an angle. Allis Chalmers built injectors are foolproof, inlet on side, return on top. 
210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bigal121892 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Jun 2021 at 3:35pm
Originally posted by BKarpel BKarpel wrote:

How can injectors be put in wrong when they have lines to match up to?


The injectors can be installed in one of two positions, one correct the other incorrect. If all the injectors have been removed, and the first one is installed wrong, and the rest are installed like the first one, the return line will match up, and you will never know the difference, unless you are familiar with how the injectors are to be installed. It's been a long time, but if remember correctly, the line needs to go between the injectors and the valve cover.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bhuffaker1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Jun 2021 at 3:08pm
Originally posted by Calvin Schmidt Calvin Schmidt wrote:

About a month ago, I looked at a brown belly 7580 that was supposed to have a rebuilt engine. There were other issues so he was willing to sell at a part out price. I didn't pull the trigger, but if it has not sold and I bought it , the engine would be available. Also has 32" wheels. I'm a long way from you in Ontario.

I have no idea how much shipping would be?  Prob a small fortune where it would have to come across the boarder..  I wish you were closer.....
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Calvin Schmidt Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Jun 2021 at 2:09pm
About a month ago, I looked at a brown belly 7580 that was supposed to have a rebuilt engine. There were other issues so he was willing to sell at a part out price. I didn't pull the trigger, but if it has not sold and I bought it , the engine would be available. Also has 32" wheels. I'm a long way from you in Ontario.
Nothing is impossible if it is properly financed
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BKarpel Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Jun 2021 at 1:35pm
You should rebuild your motor. At least you know what you have. The other 426 may last a long time or quit tomorrow. When doing a overhaul have the pump and injectors tested. Could replace pumps and even put a A pump on. A cummins swap will require a motor adapter plate and flywheel modification. I think the frame rail gets cut to make room. How can injectors be put in wrong when they have lines to match up to?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jwmac7060 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Jun 2021 at 11:40pm
Dont waste anymore money. Swap it out for an 8.3 Cummins. We put one in an 8070 and it was a completely different tractor.Allis never should have put those junk pumps on anything
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