8070 motor fail
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=180956
Printed Date: 29 Jun 2024 at 9:00am
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Topic: 8070 motor fail
Posted By: bhuffaker1
Subject: 8070 motor fail
Date Posted: 03 Jun 2021 at 10:26am
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First off, I apologize if this is posted in the wrong place. I need help. I have an 8070 that I have had for about 20 years. I live in Colorado and elevation is about 8000 ft above sea level. I have rebuilt the motor twice with in frame kits but I am not having much success. I have melted pistons, and now have one again and a bent rod. One injector will have to be taken out at machine shop. I cannot keep the motor cool. I have a new radiator in it, water pump, and new turbo. Tractor is solid everywhere else - just the motor - has about 8500 hours on it now.. THought about doing a conversion kit to an 8.3 cummins but those are expensive. THoughts? Also thought about rebuilding the 426 but have no idea if I will have the same problems down the road? thought? Suggestions on a rebuild kit and where to get it? Send the motor to someone or exchange for a rebuilt/reman one? Or Part out the tractor and move separate ways? LOL
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Replies:
Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 03 Jun 2021 at 10:31am
| I have heard stories about the Ambac pump getting worn and timing screws up and melts pistons.Surely you has been rebuilt with THAT many hours? No expert here but your trouble sound like pump to me. |
Posted By: DSeries4
Date Posted: 03 Jun 2021 at 10:33am
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I would rebuild the 426 but go with an out of frame rebuild and a major OH kit. ------------- '49 G, '54 WD45, '55 CA, '56 WD45D, '57 WD45, '58 D14, '59 D14, '60 D14, '61 D15D, '66 D15II, '66 D21II, '67 D17IV, '67 D17IVD, '67 190XTD, '73 620, '76 185, '77 175, '84 8030, '85 6080 |
Posted By: bhuffaker1
Date Posted: 03 Jun 2021 at 10:34am
| I did put a reman injection pump in it about 5 years ago. It is the Bosch. Also had all injectors tested, and it was timed to spec by dealer last time I had issues and had the head off. |
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 03 Jun 2021 at 10:43am
| Injectors in backwards. Timing advance stuck in retarded on the injection pump. Probably cannot be over-powered at high altitudes for lack of air. 170 PTO HP max. Those engines weren't that bad, so something hasn't been corrected and your getting the same results. |
Posted By: Acdiesel
Date Posted: 03 Jun 2021 at 10:48am
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so your primary common failure is melted pistons, correct? Dan ------------- D19 diesel,D17 diesel SER.3 D14 NF,D14 WF, D15 SER.II wf D15 SER.2 DIESEL,D15 ser.II nf D12 SER.I, D10 Ser.II 2-720'S Gmc,caterpillar I'm a pharmacist (farm assist) with a PHD (post hole digger) |
Posted By: bhuffaker1
Date Posted: 03 Jun 2021 at 12:22pm
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Last time no piston melt. Blew head gasket.. Biggest problem I have here is there is no one that works on Allis or know them really well. I wish I could just send this to someone and let them overhaul it and then they could send it back... I would even be willing to entertain a rebuilt motor by SOMEONE who know what they are doing..... I can get the motor out but that is about where I stop. I wish I was a big time mechanic but I am defiantly a back yard kind of guy. I am so grateful to each of you who are taking the time to reply to this. I truly appreciate your kindness...
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Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 03 Jun 2021 at 1:21pm
| Reliance Works? in Wisconsin has complete engines I think. |
Posted By: bhuffaker1
Date Posted: 03 Jun 2021 at 1:40pm
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Will this motor fit my 8070? https://www.abilenemachine.com/used-allis-chalmers-3700-diesel-engine-e-8356" rel="nofollow - https://www.abilenemachine.com/used-allis-chalmers-3700-diesel-engine-e-8356 I know the injection pump is a rosa master, etc. but I have a 7080 that I believe has this motor in it and it has over 11k hours. Motor has been rock solid..... THANKS................
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Posted By: bhuffaker1
Date Posted: 03 Jun 2021 at 6:50pm
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Bob King from Reliance called me. Super nice guy and very knowledgable. Willing to help. I am not sure what I am going to do. He can rebuild my Engine and change out injetion pump, new injectors, new rebuild, new turbo,etc. Basically a new engine for about 10k. I have also found a good used motor out of a 7050 for abou 4k delivered to me. Low hours, no blow by and good compression and oil pressure. 1 year guarantee on motor. If I go with the 7050 motor anyone had any experience in doing this? pointers? What's everyone's thoughts? I said in an earlier post that I really like the way my 7080 runs with almost zero issues...... As like everyone, finances are tight. I think I can get the motors swaped myself. Thanks again for everyone's help. Brad
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Posted By: Amos
Date Posted: 03 Jun 2021 at 7:24pm
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A 7050 engine will not have the power of your 8070 engine, and only a fool would swap your injection pump and injectors onto any engine that had issues like yours without having them repaired or at least tested by a reputable shop, assuming they would interchange to acquire the same hp. I am a little different than you in skill set, as I build all my engines myself using only a machine shop and injection pump shop to do the things I don't have equipment for. I would build up another engine, using what is left of your original, if it was me. One thing stands out to me, you are overheating the combustion chamber as melting pistons and blowing head gaskets are not common on normal operating conditions for these engines in my experience. I have had one engine I built come back to me and it had two wrist pins seized in their pistons and four pistons had oil carmalized on the underside of them. Now when they told me it had a tick in it I went to look at it and i added a gallon and a half of oil to it and two gallons of antifreeze, this is after 1500 hours on a outframe rebuild. Obviously it was overheated and I know exactly how it happened as I could here it a concession away... I think Dr's post above is likely where you will find the cause of your issue. I wish you the best of luck, and I would definitely not be afraid to run one of Bob's engines in my tractors, I have heard excellent things about them and he has updated this series to where the technology of today allows, keeping them simple with available reliable parts too! Funds are always tight, but when you have to half way fix it twice, well that's kind of wasting funds you didn't have to begin with, to waste.
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Posted By: Mikez
Date Posted: 03 Jun 2021 at 8:58pm
| welcome to forum. Good luck with your issue. Hope after you get it resolved you stick around. |
Posted By: Lonn
Date Posted: 03 Jun 2021 at 10:09pm
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One thing, you have some of the best people here on the forum to point you the way! ------------- -- --- .... .- -- -- .- -.. / .-- .- ... / .- / -- ..- .-. -.. . .-. .. -. --. / -.-. .... .. .-.. -.. / .-. .- .--. .. ... - Wink I am a Russian Bot |
Posted By: bhuffaker1
Date Posted: 03 Jun 2021 at 10:32pm
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Thank you. I have actually had a login for quite a few years. It would not let me reset my password for some reason so I had to use another email and create a new user...... It is a great form and I have enjoyed it for years now.... Brad
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Posted By: bhuffaker1
Date Posted: 03 Jun 2021 at 10:34pm
| THank you for the advise. I appreciate it. |
Posted By: Dkienzle
Date Posted: 03 Jun 2021 at 10:42pm
| If you go the 8.3 Cummins route, keep the hp below 200. Had a 7080 with a 8.3 and it would Dyno 250 but after 1300hrs it started breaking things in the rear end. Personally I would out of frame what you have by a competent mechanic if you can find one. |
Posted By: victoryallis
Date Posted: 03 Jun 2021 at 10:58pm
I have Derek’s neighbors tractor I echo the horsepower comment. My 7580 with 8.3 was pushing close to 300hp the drivetrain doesn’t like that. If the Reliance your talking to is the same ones that sell engine kits burn the phone number they will just add to your misery. Someone should be able to make a 426 work for you. ------------- 8030 and 8050MFWD, 7580, 3 6080's, 160, 7060, 175, heirloom D17, Deere 8760 |
Dkienzle wrote:Posted By: bhuffaker1
Date Posted: 03 Jun 2021 at 11:26pm
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It is not the same company... Here is their website. https://relianceworksllc.com/" rel="nofollow - https://relianceworksllc.com/ I believe this guy is the real deal. Just not sure I can afford it. I know that the motor from the 7050 will not have quite the hp but I do not need more. I run a round baler with it and do not farm with it much anymore. Really toying with just putting the 7050 motor in it and giving it a go. Abeline Machine give a year warranty with the motor . I have not had time to go check the injector line like Dr. Allis suggested. I had already taken the head off and do not remember what way the injection lines were facing. I think that could have been what happened. I wish I would have figured it out sooner. Just really appreciate everyone's opinion and advise.... Keep it coming. THank you!
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Posted By: Lonn
Date Posted: 04 Jun 2021 at 7:16am
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The 7050 engine isn't as well built as your engine. The wrist pins are smaller and the rods are not drilled for oil cooling to the pistons..... though that part isn't quite as big of a deal because the 3700 has jets in the main bearing saddles that spray oil up towards the pistons. I belive the 8070 crankshaft has counter weights vs the 7050 having none. I'd take the Roosa pump over the AMBAC though.
------------- -- --- .... .- -- -- .- -.. / .-- .- ... / .- / -- ..- .-. -.. . .-. .. -. --. / -.-. .... .. .-.. -.. / .-. .- .--. .. ... - Wink I am a Russian Bot |
Posted By: injpumpEd
Date Posted: 04 Jun 2021 at 7:25am
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Looks to me like his best option is actually the used 7050 engine. KC Grain is Reliance Works, and he does a phenomenal job reviving these and adding the Bosch A pump, but it is an expensive option, and he is half the country away. I have helped a couple of people go from the ambac m100 back to a roosa DM so it would run like the other tractors on their farm, 7040/7060's. Sounds like the OP is comfortable swapping engines, just not real comfortable rebuilding. Which I would not hesitate to just rebuild what he has if were me. If it was something as simple as backward injectors, it would be worth doing again. Since there's no qualified mechanics in his area, he needs to become his own qualified mechanic out of necessity! lol! ------------- 210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers! |
Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 04 Jun 2021 at 9:20am
| I'd have to review my 8070 service manual but it was VERY thorough on PD and transmission. Expect the same on engine. Point is,reading, comprehension and a good book can take a novice through the unknown. |
Posted By: bhuffaker1
Date Posted: 04 Jun 2021 at 4:30pm
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Still toying with lots of ideas. The biggest issue I have in keeping my engine is that I have had lots of trouble with it. Like I said, Maybe I did have the injectors in wrong, who knows.... Just have an awful taste in my mouth with the current motor...... Still trying to decide if I want to repower. I have shops here who are familiar with the Cummins motors etc. If I do repower any thoughts on going with a 5.9 or the 8.3? Don't want over 200hp in this tractor anyways as suggested above. I want the rest of it to hold together for years to come..... Sure appreciate all of your opinions.....
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Posted By: bhuffaker1
Date Posted: 04 Jun 2021 at 5:35pm
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Here's the costs: 7050 motor 4150 - next day shipping 5.9 CUmmins with the repower kit ready to install 8500 (under 1500 hours)- ship in about a week 8.3L Cummins with the repower kit ready to install 10k - (under 1500 hours) ship in about a week Send to Reliance LLC to rebuild my current motor - about 11k with shipping. take about 45 days to get back Need some input guys... Struggling to say the least.
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Posted By: Tim NH
Date Posted: 04 Jun 2021 at 5:42pm
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Add in the cost of having a adapter plate made, or being able to buy one, to mate the Cummins up. Tim ------------- 1950 WD 1959 D14 1955 WD45 1976 7000 B 207 |
Posted By: Lonn
Date Posted: 04 Jun 2021 at 6:25pm
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I would not go to anyone not familiar with Allis engines no matter what. IMO you would then be just as well off doing it yourself. I've seen what happens if you go to an otherwise good shop but unfamiliar with Allis. There is no cheap way out of an engine overhaul done proper. Does it need another complete rebuild or just the problem fixed? Do you need the tractor before 45 days? If you don't like Reliance, I've seen good and bad reviews here on the forum but that happens with everything, can you convince one of our forum gurus to take on the work? I think KC Grain is as good as anyone but have no experience other than he used to be on the forum quite a bit and is an ardent defender of AC as am I. Are the hours on those Cummins engines true? I think the 8.3 is too big but that is me. If it were me..... and I admit I am different than many, I would get it rebuilt but just use the AMBAC or maybe convert to a Roosa rather than the expensive A pump conversion. I also dislike bastardizing an AC with another brand engine but again that is just me.
------------- -- --- .... .- -- -- .- -.. / .-- .- ... / .- / -- ..- .-. -.. . .-. .. -. --. / -.-. .... .. .-.. -.. / .-. .- .--. .. ... - Wink I am a Russian Bot |
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 04 Jun 2021 at 7:08pm
| I'm a fan of the old DM-4 RoosaMaster/Stanadyne injection pump. I know they start harder when cold. I know that generally the exhaust smoke is more noticeable. The reason I HATE AmBach systems is because of so-so pump reliability (compared to DM-4) and the fact that the start of injection is always the same, making the engine rattle all the da&& time, compared to a DM-4. I have had more head gasket issues over the years with AmBach engines. I have had two AmBach 's melt pistons on two different tractors(8050 and 8070) because the timing advance failed and the operators couldn't tell there was anything wrong. This posters multiple piston problems are injection pump and/or injector installation issues clear and simple. |
Posted By: bhuffaker1
Date Posted: 04 Jun 2021 at 11:18pm
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Posted By: bhuffaker1
Date Posted: 04 Jun 2021 at 11:19pm
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Posted By: bhuffaker1
Date Posted: 04 Jun 2021 at 11:19pm
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Posted By: bhuffaker1
Date Posted: 04 Jun 2021 at 11:19pm
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Posted By: bhuffaker1
Date Posted: 04 Jun 2021 at 11:20pm
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Posted By: bhuffaker1
Date Posted: 04 Jun 2021 at 11:26pm
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Not sure the head is even rebuildable? Thoughts on pictures? Not sure using this head is even an option. |
Posted By: bhuffaker1
Date Posted: 04 Jun 2021 at 11:27pm
price includes the adapter plates....
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Posted By: KJCHRIS
Date Posted: 04 Jun 2021 at 11:29pm
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Pictures look like it didn't burn a piston but dropped a valve, which beat hell out of piston and head, you'll also want to have that rod checked for damage. I'd do an out of frame complete rebuild or replace on that engine. ------------- AC 200, CAH, AC185D bareback, AC 180D bareback, D17 III, WF. D17 Blackbar grill, NF. D15 SFW. Case 1175 CAH, Bobcat 543B, |
Posted By: bhuffaker1
Date Posted: 04 Jun 2021 at 11:30pm
Rod was bent to hell..... Head looks too damaged to reuse?
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Posted By: bhuffaker1
Date Posted: 04 Jun 2021 at 11:31pm
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I had a friend take the head off and he told me piston was melted but I agree with you KJCHRIS . Dropped a valve for sure. |
Posted By: bhuffaker1
Date Posted: 04 Jun 2021 at 11:32pm
| Anyone have a rebuilt Motor for this tractor here on this form?? |
Posted By: shameless dude
Date Posted: 05 Jun 2021 at 2:52am
| you live near greeley? |
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 05 Jun 2021 at 6:52am
| All exhaust valves from an engine that has had the timing advance fail need to be scrapped. |
Posted By: Lars(wi)
Date Posted: 05 Jun 2021 at 7:10am
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I don’t want to sound out of line here, but, what does this tractor run/pull when it’s working? Is it possible that you are expecting too much from this tractor? You may have too much of a load on it? Just curious what you use this tractor for? ------------- I tried to follow the science, but it was not there. I then followed the money, and that’s where I found the science. |
Posted By: injpumpEd
Date Posted: 05 Jun 2021 at 10:30am
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Looking at the first head pic, the injector seems to be the cause of your issue, can see where it was spraying back on the head and valve, and continued use with it running poorly, will make it $h!t the bed. Not in any way the engine's fault. Fix what you have and get it back in the field. Too bad I'm no longer living in Colo lol! That head will need replaced, plenty of good used heads around to be acquired. Leaving an old copper washer in there, and adding a new one with the injector can cause it to not spray in the piston bowl, but on the head surface. Overhaul it, and get another head core to have rebuilt. ------------- 210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers! |
Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 05 Jun 2021 at 11:06am
| 6 sleeve kits,different head w/all new valves(set at correct surface height),attention to detail when assembling and probably ok to use that Ambac. I'm like others and think life was better with Roosa's but M 100's are ok when they are right. I would put a pyrometer on it just to monitor exhaust temps. If pump retards,exhaust will show it. That for sure dropped a valve and bent your rod but most likely from what Doc said about reusing over heated parts from earlier failure. Can anyone speak to any harm to crank from bending a rod like that? |
Posted By: AC7060IL
Date Posted: 05 Jun 2021 at 2:25pm
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Bhuffaker1, welcome. Hear what you’re saying about being tired of spending money & then it’s not reliable. You’ve also stated in your previous posts that your 8070 has already received a new radiator, new turbo, 8500hr, & otherwise decent shape. From pictures I see it is a Fwd - right? Is it PS or PD transmission? Lots of great advise on this AC forum. So with that support/direction, rebuilding its current AC 670I engine might be best money spent going forward? Then you should know exact condition of the engine. 7050’s engine might do ok too? It’d compliment your 7080’s likeness. Always a chance for 7050 engine to have issues later though. Cummins 5.9 would be a good engine, but it’s conversion will be expensive. You say you have little to no local AC support. So if you can locate a good local Cummins support, that may be another good direction for you & any future issues? Good luck whatever you decide! |
Posted By: bhuffaker1
Date Posted: 05 Jun 2021 at 10:32pm
I am about 5 hours north.. Opposite end of the sate...... Easily a days drive though.... What are your thoughts? |
Posted By: bhuffaker1
Date Posted: 05 Jun 2021 at 10:33pm
This tractor would get hot just driving down the road on a hot afternoon day.. The only thing that I used it for was hooked up to a JD 568 round baler and I loved the transmission for that... |
Posted By: bhuffaker1
Date Posted: 05 Jun 2021 at 10:39pm
Power shift.. Yes I am tired of spending the money on the tractor but it just proves that I have NO relieable AC mechanics around here. I have done tons of work and then had it looked about by two different shops.. I just have had EXCEPTIONAL luck with the old 7080.. It is a rock.... Struggling for sure to make a decision........ THANK YOU!
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Posted By: bhuffaker1
Date Posted: 05 Jun 2021 at 10:45pm
I know I do not have the know how to do what you are saying. If I had a good AC mechanic here I would rebuild but there really is no one who knows theses engines even remotely close to me. I am really considering going with the 8.3 and spending the 10k and getting a machine that should last a long time.... I would send this motor to someone but that also starts to break the bank in just shipping costs. I made a mistake when I bought this tractor years ago. I should have bought a tractor that either I could support of have mechanics that can support it. THis is Green country around here. Case as well.... I would just like to get something in this machine that I can trust to run and do well. It is a money pit because there is no one here who can fix it right the first time. Thanks for the post!
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Posted By: bhuffaker1
Date Posted: 05 Jun 2021 at 11:07pm
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Here is my email in case someone here may know "a guy" who can either rebuild this correctly or sell me a rebuilt motor. If not, I may have no choice but to go with either the 5.9 or the 8.3 Please have them reach out to me...
bhuff.ncsd@gmail.com |
Posted By: Mikez
Date Posted: 05 Jun 2021 at 11:25pm
| I don’t know anything on this topic. Unless these motors that your thinking of buying came out of an 8070, you might end up half to three quarters of an engine swap to find hard to find puzzle pieces and regret the decision. |
Posted By: Jwmac7060
Date Posted: 05 Jun 2021 at 11:40pm
| Dont waste anymore money. Swap it out for an 8.3 Cummins. We put one in an 8070 and it was a completely different tractor.Allis never should have put those junk pumps on anything |
Posted By: BKarpel
Date Posted: 06 Jun 2021 at 1:35pm
| You should rebuild your motor. At least you know what you have. The other 426 may last a long time or quit tomorrow. When doing a overhaul have the pump and injectors tested. Could replace pumps and even put a A pump on. A cummins swap will require a motor adapter plate and flywheel modification. I think the frame rail gets cut to make room. How can injectors be put in wrong when they have lines to match up to? |
Posted By: Calvin Schmidt
Date Posted: 06 Jun 2021 at 2:09pm
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About a month ago, I looked at a brown belly 7580 that was supposed to have a rebuilt engine. There were other issues so he was willing to sell at a part out price. I didn't pull the trigger, but if it has not sold and I bought it , the engine would be available. Also has 32" wheels. I'm a long way from you in Ontario. ------------- Nothing is impossible if it is properly financed |
Posted By: bhuffaker1
Date Posted: 06 Jun 2021 at 3:08pm
I have no idea how much shipping would be? Prob a small fortune where it would have to come across the boarder.. I wish you were closer.....
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Posted By: bigal121892
Date Posted: 06 Jun 2021 at 3:35pm
The injectors can be installed in one of two positions, one correct the other incorrect. If all the injectors have been removed, and the first one is installed wrong, and the rest are installed like the first one, the return line will match up, and you will never know the difference, unless you are familiar with how the injectors are to be installed. It's been a long time, but if remember correctly, the line needs to go between the injectors and the valve cover.
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Posted By: injpumpEd
Date Posted: 06 Jun 2021 at 6:55pm
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Correct, return line towards valve cover on engines with American Bosch injectors. Sometimes guys put them the other way thinking the returns are easier to get to, not realizing the holes in the tip are at an angle to compensate for the injector sitting in the head at an angle. Allis Chalmers built injectors are foolproof, inlet on side, return on top. ------------- 210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers! |
Posted By: automaticdave
Date Posted: 06 Jun 2021 at 7:19pm
| How can I tell which injection nozzles are on my 8010 that has a M-100 pump on it? Thanks Dave |
Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 06 Jun 2021 at 9:57pm
| If it's got an Ambac pump...it has Ambac injectors...fuel line on top,return on side. |
Posted By: Kevin in WA
Date Posted: 07 Jun 2021 at 9:07am
| Even the early 8010 with the Roosa pump still had Ambac injectors from the factory. |
Posted By: bhuffaker1
Date Posted: 07 Jun 2021 at 9:23am
It is a very touchy injection system. This is why Shops around here do not like to work on these engines and hence my dilemma. The Rosa master pump and injectors in my opinion was by far a superb system. I know understand that AC wanted to not make as much black smoke and start a little easier but those fuel systems just seemed to work and work well. Not near as touchy. Who makes an injector that can be put in backwards and still somewhat work? I have learned so much from each of you and thank you for your time and input. I hope to make a decision in the next few days....
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Posted By: injpumpEd
Date Posted: 07 Jun 2021 at 10:37am
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Many engines have injectors that can be installed "backwards" so to speak. The Roosa pumps on about 150hp tractors and up were kinda past their comfort zone. The M100 is a good pump, kinda complicated by design, but IH tractors been running them since 71. They did allow AC engines to smoke a little less. For some reason though, the AC engine is much more sensitive to governor surging with the M100's and even more so with the Bosch A pump inline. The one or two A pump conversions I've been involved in had surging issues, which is why I cannot do those at this time. I'm no engineer, and sure don't have time to listen to callers complaining about a surge issues. The biggest issue giving the AC M100's a black eye is poor quality rebuilds. ------------- 210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers! |
Posted By: bhuffaker1
Date Posted: 07 Jun 2021 at 8:09pm
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After much thought and looking into many options I have decided the best decision for me is to go with the 7050 motor. I feel confident that it was being represented correctly and should go right in with out any problems. If any of you have any ideas on what I should do to this motor prior to install or after installing please share. Thanks again for all of your advise. I have learned so much. Brad
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Posted By: ajl
Date Posted: 07 Jun 2021 at 9:41pm
| I also own a an 8070 but with only 3500 hrs. Given that it is a 4 x 4 it has value. If I did not want to deal with the rebuild then I would sell it as is and someone else will rebuild. Then I would proceed to take the money from the sale and the savings from the cost of repairs and buy something with the 8.3 Cummins already in it. A White workhorse comes to mind. Would not spend time and effort swapping a different motor in it. Another option would be to go to a 2wd for baler work which would be cheaper. |
Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 07 Jun 2021 at 10:28pm
| ...or a CIH with the Cummins and PS. 7000?series? Neighbor has 3 (2 fwa) older units but seem solid. |
Posted By: bhuffaker1
Date Posted: 08 Jun 2021 at 12:26pm
Much easier said than done. Around here a Non-running Allis is yard art... I would have a hard time selling it if it was running. I can't imagine selling a blown engine Allis on tractor house and getting much money for it.... If I can get it to run and work again for under 5k that is what I am going to have to do. Hope that makes sense.
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Posted By: CORLEWFARM
Date Posted: 08 Jun 2021 at 6:28pm
| Your gonna have less hp,and if you change pumps you will have to change front plate and front cover. You will also have to change manifold or turbo for the muffler and the hole in the hood, and if you keep the 7050 pump you will have to change throttle linkage and put a kill cable. |
Posted By: bhuffaker1
Date Posted: 08 Jun 2021 at 7:08pm
I understand I will have less HP. Sorry I am so ignorant but what do you mean by the front plate and the front cover? Hopefully I can figure the rest out.
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Posted By: bhuffaker1
Date Posted: 08 Jun 2021 at 7:09pm
| I M Planning on keeping the Rosa Master pump as I like it better that the touchy Bosch pump if that is what you are talking about? |
Posted By: CORLEWFARM
Date Posted: 08 Jun 2021 at 7:34pm
| If you keep the rosa you'll won't need to change cover. |
Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 08 Jun 2021 at 10:59pm
| You can probably use a fuel on/off cable from a 7000 series...you'll have to fab a way to use yor existing throttle cable but it's not a deal breaker |
Posted By: GM Guy
Date Posted: 21 Jun 2021 at 12:33am
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another consideration is a takeout engine from a late N6 combine, swap necessary parts around to bolt it in the tractor. Are you near Delta and have a neighbor with a airplane cabled down near his shop? ------------- Gleaner: the properly engineered and built combine. If you need parts for your Gleaner, we are parting out A's through L2's, so we may be able to help. |
Posted By: bhuffaker1
Date Posted: 21 Jun 2021 at 12:46am
| No that is not me.. I am about 4 hours away from Delta. |
Posted By: bhuffaker1
Date Posted: 23 Aug 2021 at 9:16am
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I am knee deep now in the swap. Not terrible but definately learning alot. Have a question: Should I have this flywheel resurfaced? Machine shop is over a month behind and I was hoping to get this back together before then? Here ae some picture of it.. THOUGHTS??
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Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 23 Aug 2021 at 12:43pm
| I'm no authority. MACK says you replace that pressure plate,not machine it. the flywheel is only thing that gets machinedand it needs done to specs. It's in the service manual. |
Posted By: bhuffaker1
Date Posted: 24 Aug 2021 at 1:12pm
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Thank you so much SteveM. I ordered a new pressure plate! I am going to see if the local machine shop can resurface the flywheel. Would you happen to have the specs? I do not have a service manual. THanks |
Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 25 Aug 2021 at 10:20am
| Need input from Doc or Mack or anyone else who knows but it seems like they shortened the dimensions up a bit for higher hp tractors. |
Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 27 Aug 2021 at 11:25pm
| send me a PM with a cell or email and I will send you pic of page in manual on flywheel demensions. |
Posted By: GARY1967
Date Posted: 29 Aug 2021 at 11:50am
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Hello found rebuilt motor on Craigslist. Not mine. Not sure if same engine your looking for or not. https://indianapolis.craigslist.org/grd/d/la-fontaine-allis-chalmers-426-very-low/7358067454.html" rel="nofollow - https://indianapolis.craigslist.org/grd/d/la-fontaine-allis-chalmers-426-very-low/7358067454.html
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Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 30 Aug 2021 at 8:10am
| Been some games played with that one....8000's didn't have roosa pumps. |
Posted By: Jwmac7060
Date Posted: 30 Aug 2021 at 10:51pm
| I saw one up at Sumerix that had been switched from the junk ambach to a Roosa master. I personally would've rather has a Roosa |