180 PTO PROBLEMS

my 180 does the same thing! pfft!

Not hydraulic - its the manual linkage type

The poor linkage on a 180 gets worn to where it don't shift all the way in then it starts jumping out. After it jumps out a few times it wears the pto shaft to where it will never stay in.

cadcory - welcome to the forum.  On a 170 it's like a D17.  One long rear PTO shaft that goes from the rear of the tractor thru the transmission housing to the torque tube.  That's where the splined sliding coupler that slides on the front shaft engages to it via your lever.   The rear PTO shaft is held in by 3 bolts on the bearing carrier.  Drain both the transmission and torque tube housings before pulling it out the back.  I believe the bearing is pressed in the carrier?  Still fairly easy to get out and replace.  Also replace the rear seal while you are at it.  Also check the front spines for any burrs and us a dremel tool to clean them if  you have any.  Be careful reinstalling the PTO shaft as you have to push the shaft through a double seal between the transmission and torque tube housings.   Mike

Edited by Skyhighballoon(MO) - 11 Feb 2012 at 4:55pm

Mine did the same thing.  I just lengthened one of the linkages about 2 inches I think to accomidate for wear, and the bent lever on the shaft down below.  Works great now, did not have to replace the PTO shaft.

Corey,

First - I assumed you had the single speed PTO on your 170 - my comments above and here below are based on that. 

There is no "clutch".  The engagement is done by sliding that splined coupler on the front PTO shaft rearward so it engages and couples both shafts together.  When the PTO is ground into engagement when either shaft is spinning, it grinds down the splines on the rear PTO shaft making engagement first difficult then eventually the burrs on the splines prevent the coupler from sliding on rear PTO shaft. 

Even a mangled one can be cleaned up with dremel tool grinding wheel or an air die grinder.  You'd be amazed how much better it works once cleaned up even if the ends of the splines are rounded.  The coupler is long enough that there is still enough length for good engagement.  Once you've cleaned it the splines and reinstalled the shaft (after also replacing the rear bearing & seal), run the engagement lever thought several cycles while turning the rear PTO shaft in various positions to make sure you have good engagement.  If it still seems sticky, pull it back out and clean up the splines a little more.  Lots easier to find that out at this point point before filling both compartments back up with lube.  If the rear PTO shaft is really mangled and can't be fixed, they are available new still.

Open this link below in INTERNET EXPLORER and click on the page "DRIVE TRAIN - P.T.O. SHAFT & GEARS" to see a parts picture and list.  You can click on other pages for the shifter/fork, etc.

http://www.agcopartsbooks.com/PartsBooksN/Viewer/book.aspx?book=agco/79001560#

I believe those double seals are like you say with one lip going on way and one going the other way.  But you won't be changing those.  You have to split the tractor to replace those.  That's why you need to be careful reinstalling the rear shaft.

HTH.  Let us know if you have more questions.  Mike

Mike,