Farm Equipment - 180 PTO PROBLEMS

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180 PTO PROBLEMS

Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=38937
Printed Date: 09 Sep 2025 at 12:20pm
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Topic: 180 PTO PROBLEMS

Posted By: DougG
Subject: 180 PTO PROBLEMS
Date Posted: 14 Oct 2011 at 3:59pm

Just bought another 180 with pto problems - it engages and will turn - but you put it on a brushogg or a load and it will turn it but it seems as the pto is turning it gets to a certain point of rotation and wants to jump out of gear - if you try to hold it in- it really puts pressure on the linkage like somthing inside is out of round - maybe a bearing ? Anyone have an idea ?

Replies:

Posted By: SHAMELESS
Date Posted: 14 Oct 2011 at 4:33pm

my 180 does the same thing! pfft!

Posted By: Clay
Date Posted: 14 Oct 2011 at 4:52pm

If it were a hydraulic shift PTO, I would suspect an o-ring in the valve.

Posted By: DougG
Date Posted: 14 Oct 2011 at 5:46pm

Not hydraulic - its the manual linkage type

Posted By: Skyhighballoon(MO)
Date Posted: 14 Oct 2011 at 8:44pm

Doug - sounds just like what mine was doing. Lever on shaft coming out of torque tube was bent and the rear PTO shaft had burrs not allowing engagement in the sliding coupler. Remove the battery box to check the lever - bend back in place if needed. Pull the rear PTO shaft to check for burrs and use a dremel to clean it up as needed. See pics in link. Mike

http://s39.photobucket.com/albums/e176/Skyhighballoon/One%20Eighty%20PTO/ - http://s39.photobucket.com/albums/e176/Skyhighballoon/One%20Eighty%20PTO/

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1981 Gleaner F2 Corn Plus w 13' flex
1968 Gleaner EIII w 10' & 330
1969 180 gas
1965 D17 S-IV gas
1963 D17 S-III gas
1956 WD45 gas NF PS
1956 All-Crop 66 Big Bin
303 wire baler, 716H, 712H mowers

Posted By: MACK
Date Posted: 14 Oct 2011 at 9:08pm

The poor linkage on a 180 gets worn to where it don't shift all the way in then it starts jumping out. After it jumps out a few times it wears the pto shaft to where it will never stay in.

Replace pto shaft and repair linkage or weld a strap of steel to it and bring it up between battery box and and torque tube like a D17 or 170 and you will take care of the problem. MACK

Posted By: cadcorey
Date Posted: 11 Feb 2012 at 4:47pm

I see you have a 180. I am looking at buying a 170 but the pto has about 1/4" in and out thrust to it just by using your hand to pull and push on it. What i need to know is if there is and where the bearings are on the shaft and what it take to get it out and change them??? From what i can see on your pics that its all of taking the back plate off and pulling the shaft help. Any help you can give me on it would be a big help cause i am a big fan with Allis but i dont know much about these one.

Posted By: Skyhighballoon(MO)
Date Posted: 11 Feb 2012 at 4:54pm

cadcory - welcome to the forum. On a 170 it's like a D17. One long rear PTO shaft that goes from the rear of the tractor thru the transmission housing to the torque tube. That's where the splined sliding coupler that slides on the front shaft engages to it via your lever. The rear PTO shaft is held in by 3 bolts on the bearing carrier. Drain both the transmission and torque tube housings before pulling it out the back. I believe the bearing is pressed in the carrier? Still fairly easy to get out and replace. Also replace the rear seal while you are at it. Also check the front spines for any burrs and us a dremel tool to clean them if you have any. Be careful reinstalling the PTO shaft as you have to push the shaft through a double seal between the transmission and torque tube housings. Mike

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1981 Gleaner F2 Corn Plus w 13' flex
1968 Gleaner EIII w 10' & 330
1969 180 gas
1965 D17 S-IV gas
1963 D17 S-III gas
1956 WD45 gas NF PS
1956 All-Crop 66 Big Bin
303 wire baler, 716H, 712H mowers

Posted By: DougG
Date Posted: 11 Feb 2012 at 5:13pm

AH i forgot of putting the -fix- for this tractor ; broke it apart and the ear was broke off of the coupler lever thing , when it got pressure on it , it would jump back , used coupler thing 60 bucks and like new ; i did redo the linkage too as it was worn

Posted By: HagerAC
Date Posted: 12 Feb 2012 at 2:06am

Mine did the same thing. I just lengthened one of the linkages about 2 inches I think to accomidate for wear, and the bent lever on the shaft down below. Works great now, did not have to replace the PTO shaft.

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30+ A-Cs ranging from a 1928 20-35, to a 1984 8070FWA, Gleaner R52

Posted By: cadcorey
Date Posted: 12 Feb 2012 at 6:52am

Mike,

Thanks for the info. It sounds like it is not that big of a job to get it out and fixed. I have to drain all the oils and change them as soon as i get it here so that makes the perfect time to do it. You said about the double seals, are they lips seals that go back to back with one going forward and one going backwards?? Also one thing with it was the clutch. Is there any adjustment to it it?? When you go to put it in gear you have to wait a second or two to get it in while it grinds and shakes just a bit. Though when you release it to go you have to let it almost all the way up. Thanks for the help cause i dont know where else to go.

Corey

Posted By: Skyhighballoon(MO)
Date Posted: 12 Feb 2012 at 10:40am

Corey,

First - I assumed you had the single speed PTO on your 170 - my comments above and here below are based on that.

There is no "clutch". The engagement is done by sliding that splined coupler on the front PTO shaft rearward so it engages and couples both shafts together. When the PTO is ground into engagement when either shaft is spinning, it grinds down the splines on the rear PTO shaft making engagement first difficult then eventually the burrs on the splines prevent the coupler from sliding on rear PTO shaft.

Even a mangled one can be cleaned up with dremel tool grinding wheel or an air die grinder. You'd be amazed how much better it works once cleaned up even if the ends of the splines are rounded. The coupler is long enough that there is still enough length for good engagement. Once you've cleaned it the splines and reinstalled the shaft (after also replacing the rear bearing & seal), run the engagement lever thought several cycles while turning the rear PTO shaft in various positions to make sure you have good engagement. If it still seems sticky, pull it back out and clean up the splines a little more. Lots easier to find that out at this point point before filling both compartments back up with lube. If the rear PTO shaft is really mangled and can't be fixed, they are available new still.

Open this link below in INTERNET EXPLORER and click on the page "DRIVE TRAIN - P.T.O. SHAFT & GEARS" to see a parts picture and list. You can click on other pages for the shifter/fork, etc.

http://www.agcopartsbooks.com/PartsBooksN/Viewer/book.aspx?book=agco/79001560#" rel="nofollow - http://www.agcopartsbooks.com/PartsBooksN/Viewer/book.aspx?book=agco/79001560#

I believe those double seals are like you say with one lip going on way and one going the other way. But you won't be changing those. You have to split the tractor to replace those. That's why you need to be careful reinstalling the rear shaft.

HTH. Let us know if you have more questions. Mike

-------------
1981 Gleaner F2 Corn Plus w 13' flex
1968 Gleaner EIII w 10' & 330
1969 180 gas
1965 D17 S-IV gas
1963 D17 S-III gas
1956 WD45 gas NF PS
1956 All-Crop 66 Big Bin
303 wire baler, 716H, 712H mowers

Posted By: cadcorey
Date Posted: 12 Feb 2012 at 12:43pm

Mike,

All of that is very helpful, especially the page of the shaft drawing. After looking at it, i think the back snap ring might be broke and allowing it to move. As far as the clutch issue, i meant the main clutch to engage the transmission. Sorry i did not clear that the first time. With seeing all the info you have given me i think i will get this tractor since it looks like an easy fix even if i have to put new bearings in it and it runs very good.

Corey

Posted By: cadcorey
Date Posted: 18 Feb 2012 at 3:43pm

Mike,

I got the trctor home today and pulled the pto out. It was the single speed shaft. The problem is the rear retainer ring is gone allowing it to move in and out. The problem now seems that i can not get that ring anywhere. I put a post on here hoping someone can help me. Thanks for the advice and the website. It has come in real handy.

Corey

Posted By: Skyhighballoon(MO)
Date Posted: 18 Feb 2012 at 3:49pm

Corey - did you try Sandy Lake Implement for the ring? Mike

http://www.sandylakeimp.com/" rel="nofollow - http://www.sandylakeimp.com/

-------------
1981 Gleaner F2 Corn Plus w 13' flex
1968 Gleaner EIII w 10' & 330
1969 180 gas
1965 D17 S-IV gas
1963 D17 S-III gas
1956 WD45 gas NF PS
1956 All-Crop 66 Big Bin
303 wire baler, 716H, 712H mowers