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Hot engine won't start?

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TedN View Drop Down
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    Posted: 27 Jun 2025 at 10:34am
Fix the (now) known alternator issue, replace the cables, and see if that solves the problem. Looks like it uses an electric fan, that will speed up a little too. I think if I were working on it I would get some convoluted tubing and zip ties and get some of the wiring cleaned up a little while doing it. A few extra minutes gains quite a bit of piece of mind.
Its neat to see something like that out being used, and it works for what you are doing.

Ted

Edited by TedN - 27 Jun 2025 at 10:38am
190XTD seriesIII, 190XTD seriesI, maroon belly 7000, 190XTD series??? project(or maybe parts)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote modirt Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Jun 2025 at 8:06am
Bad starter could be part of problem, but in this case, not from the exhaust. Open air mounting and this one has a pair of cherry bomb glass packs on duel exhaust pipes. Somebody had a sense of humor. 

I added turnouts so the hot exhaust didn't hit rear tires directly.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WF owner Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Jun 2025 at 6:01am
Probably not the same problem, but years ago (80's), I had a Chevy motorhome that never wanted to start when it was warm. The starter was very close to the exhaust. With the setback style of the engine, engine compartment heat was always a problem. I tried various attempts at heat shielding and only ever managed to make the problem worse. 

A local electrical shop rebuilt the starter, and I had no more problems.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ed (Ont) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Jun 2025 at 9:59pm
That sounds like good changes. Bigger battery cables should help. 30 amp alternator is not a whole bunch but a lot of alternators back in the day were in that range. Chev in the 70's were 37 amps. I plowed snow with a 77 GMC with 37 amps. We would stop in the middle of the night when the lights got so dim you could not see. Park truck and let it run and go for a coffee. Then work again!!! Lol. Smile
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote modirt Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Jun 2025 at 3:08pm
Quick update. Pulled the battery and had it tested and they said still good. Was low on charge, but voltage output tested OK.

Battery cables were #4 and negative was grounded to the engine block. Cables corroded, so have upgraded to new #2 cables. Will install those on the existing battery. If memory serves, 725 cold cranking amps. They sell one with more CCA's that sits in same foot print. As is, the battery box is full. BTW, forgot but there is a 2nd battery box. So may have been setup to run a 2nd battery in parallel for running lights at night.

Existing alternator......one in the video......despite being large in physical size is only putting out 30 amps or so. Since it has been causing trouble anyway, new 90 amp single wire (self regulated) alternator on order. Local NAPA can make me new charging wire.........thinking #6 AWG wire to handle the loads.

Will make those changes, then see what happens.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote modirt Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Jun 2025 at 9:29pm
Also, at end of day, parked it, then turned the key off. On a whim, tried to start and she groaned a bit, but did start and run........even when hot. Extra juice in the battery may have been a factor.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote modirt Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Jun 2025 at 9:27pm
On a hunch, put a battery charger on the battery today at 1.00. Pulled it about 5.30. It needed some charge. Started and ran, but at start, volt meter dropped way off. So tired battery, bad cables, bad connection, or all the above.

Also, watching volt meter, alternator never kicked in as it has in past. May spend some time looking for reason, but gave up on that one long time ago. Just need to get a new one and start over.

There was quite a bit of redneck engineering that had been added that is being put back to normal / original.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote modirt Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Jun 2025 at 9:14pm
Originally posted by Lars(wi) Lars(wi) wrote:

Watched your video, what is the advantage of this contraption, instead of pulling a flat rack directly behind the baler?


One advantage is I started baling today at 2 PM. It was 95 and humid. Plus had no help then. Help showed up at 6 PM when it cooled down. We put 200 bales in the barn in 2 hours, start to finish. Could have been faster if we made it in one big load. This shows front end elevated enough to stack bales 8 high, which is all we need. Could go higher.




Before finding this thing, spent some time looking for a New Holland Stackliner.......but even the smallest one needs more height to the trusses than this barn has. The other ways to haul hay all seem to be regional. I doubt there is a baler with bale thrower anywhere in MO. Some guys do stack on wagons behind the baler, but very rare. I've seen accumulators and skid loaders, but never seen one in the field.

Most common method in MO today for small squares? Crew of 4 or 5 picking them up by hand and stacking on a flatbed trailer towed by 1 ton pickup. The Amish can make it look like hay levitates onto that trailer and into the barn.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote iowallis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Jun 2025 at 4:49pm
I would guess battery cables and ground. Get some decent ones (4 ga minimum) and clean the connections on both ends when installing. I would also run a cable from the engine to the frame/body of the machine to insure good grounding. 2nd guess would be a bad stater despite being new.

Long shot is what happened to one of my old cars that wouldn’t start when hot. For years blamed it on vapor lock. Found out that using multi weight oil it would get too thin in my well worn engine and the cylinders couldn’t pull enough vacuum to get the gas/air mixture into the cylinder. Switched to straight weight oil (30 weight) and a bottle of STP and no hot start issues since. It is a warm weather car so no need to worry about starting in cold weather.

Edited by iowallis - 25 Jun 2025 at 4:50pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lars(wi) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Jun 2025 at 3:42pm
Watched your video, what is the advantage of this contraption, instead of pulling a flat rack directly behind the baler?
I tried to follow the science, but it was not there. I then followed the money, and that’s where I found the science.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote LouSWPA Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Jun 2025 at 2:29pm
Grounding or starter would be my first suspects
I am still confident of this;
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TedN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Jun 2025 at 12:36pm
I watched your video and I agree that the alternator needs to be fixed, that may actually be the source of your starting issues. The belt isn't tight enough for it to put out full output. You should have about 13.5 volts at the battery when running, my guess is you are closer to 13, maybe a little less. Enough to not go dead, but not actually charged. I would still check to be sure you have good ground between engine and chassis just because of the other issues that can cause, but your alternator is only barely able to keep up as is.

Ted

Edited by TedN - 25 Jun 2025 at 12:42pm
190XTD seriesIII, 190XTD seriesI, maroon belly 7000, 190XTD series??? project(or maybe parts)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote modirt Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Jun 2025 at 12:11pm
This is the actual contraption in question...........


This is a cleaner version.......closer to original. This one a Ford engine. Second half shows front chute/snout with elevator extension for reaching barn lofts, etc. I have the extension, but it's not working.....yet.



A couple items high on agenda to fix........one is that alternator. Somebody did some creative redneck engineering.......welded a tightener bracket to the FRAME, so belt tightens and loosens as engine moves. Have the actual Mopar/Dodge alternator brackets for the engine, but need to get a different alternator. This one is a Delco, with internal voltage regulator, but mounting holes don't fit. 

A real Dodge has a voltage regular setup under the dashboard and behind the firewall. The hay monster doesn't have that.

Creative parts solution for some of this comes from Summit Racing......which have several self regulated alternator options for this engine. All high output, but if the lights are on, there is a big voltage drop........which may also be an indication the battery is weak......but existing alternator may only be 30 or 40 amp.



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ray54 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Jun 2025 at 10:50am
Originally posted by modirt modirt wrote:


Previous owner told me he was also looking for a coil, so that may help too.

Can't ever recall any farm truck.....once it was running and warmed up......not starting.

 Wink
I the good old day (1970's ) when we grew grain here we harvested from June to September (no summer rain here,why have 2 combines when one run more hours did the job). Lot of 1940' and 50's trucks hauling grain.  As a teen hauling grain, one of my greatest fears was killing a truck at the elevator in town. I never had one that did not start, but a lot of cranking sometimes. Dad had a 48 and 49 Ford F6's. The 49 had a Y block transplant including automatic choke that did not have original heat shields.

But it did happen that someone got towed off the pit or scales. It was so nice my last years having my IH 1700 that has a engine that started very easy hot.

Good luckWink In this situation it may be blind luck that get you there first.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TedN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Jun 2025 at 9:45am
I just did a search on it, that is an interesting way to pick up hay. I can see why you don't want it to not run part way through the day, you have a crew standing around unhappy. In our area the few of us that still put up hay in small bales usuall use the New Holland Harobed. My brother has a 1068 and just picked up a S1048, we put up 16x18 bales that run #90-100 in alfalfa and #75-85 in grass. I know that our area is one of the few that uses this size bale, so I find it interesting to see how it is done in other places.

Ted
190XTD seriesIII, 190XTD seriesI, maroon belly 7000, 190XTD series??? project(or maybe parts)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Les Kerf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Jun 2025 at 8:48am
The first thing I check (because it is easy) is voltage drop at the battery while cranking. If the voltage barely drops but the engine barely cranks, then there is poor connectivity (corroded connections, cables too small, whatever).

If the voltage drops WAY down then either the battery has no guts or there is excessive load (dragging starter, tight engine, whatever).



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote modirt Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Jun 2025 at 8:46am
I'll mention one more thing.......when we swapped out distributor cap, checked that against a firing order diagram for 318 Chrysler and concluded the distributor shaft had been put in backwards. But they they put spark plug wires on to match the order and it starts and runs. 

So one thing we have not done is to check the timing. With things reversed, not sure how that would work unless #1 is #1 either way.

Have considered pulling the distributor shaft to set it right, BUT, as mounted not sure if there is enough clearance between motor and deck above it to pull it. Because it is running, decided to go with it as it. Lots of little improvements and fixes needed once hay season is over.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote modirt Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Jun 2025 at 8:33am
Hydraulics is powered by a single small pump mounted on frame in front of engine. A pto shaft runs from front pulley off crankshaft to the pump. If engine is turning, pump is pumping. Hydraulics running off the pump include a remote fan behind the radiator (runs on hydraulic motor), power steering, lift cylinders for the front snout and when loading or unloading, a hydraulic motor runs drag chains on front snout and conveyor down centerline of the bed.

To give an idea of it's purpose, couple days back driver and two stackers on the the truck picked up 150 bales from the field in 20 minutes. At barn, front snout raises up as much as 12 feet to become hay elevator. Can unload as fast as stacker guys in the barn can keep up. Or would if the driver (me) didn't screw up and kill it. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote modirt Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Jun 2025 at 8:23am
Originally posted by Lars(wi) Lars(wi) wrote:

When you say ‘kill it’ are referring to stalling the engine, or turning the ignition off?


Both of those. Biggest risk is when nudging front end into a barn with full load of 150 bales. That is nearly 4 tons of hay. Helps that transmission is geared way down, but can still be kind of exciting getting it where it needs to be without hitting anything.

Another time was when we had to shut it down to add fuel. Only made that mistake once.

Still odd that when I go out later today, she will fire right up on first turn. But if hot.......at moment of kill, can barely turn engine over with fully charged battery. Half an hour later, will turn over, but drags as if battery is on last legs. But no fire or hint of wanting to start. But once cool, fires right up.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Codger Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Jun 2025 at 6:03am
I don't know the machine at all. Are you certain the load is declutching, or releasing from the engine when the engine is not running? You mention hydraulics and if these are not relieving pressure in the driven system immediately you are fighting system pressure with engine start. This possibly decays as time goes by allowing the engine to crank somewhat unloaded.

If certain the load is coming off of the engine when not operating, install either in series a shunt fed, or inductive clamp on ammeter and measure starting current. If you see over 800A inrush on starting current, start moving downstream first removing the starter motor and bench testing. Chrysler gear reduction starters should show about 90A inrush when bench testing with no load as example. within about two seconds taper to 30A or less. 

I would agree with electrical connection integrity. I like a minimum of 2AWG from the negative battery post to both the engine block, and frame rail in a gasoline engine application. 2/0AWG in diesel applications. Land that negative lead under a starter mounting fastener is preferred and use dielectric paste to keep corrosion at bay.  

  
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ekjdm14 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Jun 2025 at 5:59am
Originally posted by Thad in AR. Thad in AR. wrote:


I’d trust a junk yard starter muck more than a new one. It took me 4 new starters to get a good one on my work truck.

Agreed, wouldn't surprise me at all if the new starter is failing when hot.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Thad in AR. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Jun 2025 at 5:32am
Next time you try it and it doesn’t want to turn over quickly grab rack battery cable. If one feels hot it’s either bad or not making a good connection.
Could be a bad starter.
I’d trust a junk yard starter muck more than a new one. It took me 4 new starters to get a good one on my work truck.
As mentioned before check timing.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TedN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Jun 2025 at 12:44am
If you running it now it doesn't take much to throw a decent set of jumpers in with you and do a quick test if the situation arises, negative terminal to block. Reading the original post again I think this is important, as I believe the issue may be between chassis and engine. With a hydraulic pump tied in you have hydraulic lines that will conduct some electricity before they burst into flames. I have witnessed this exact thing on a S2200 IH, but it was the stainless line off the compressor that lit up. Also had a local trucker lose his truck because it was using the power steering hoses for a ground, when they carried too much current the steel braid got hot enough to ignite the rubber around it. I personally like to run the ground cable directly to the engine, and either ground from there to the chassis or run a seperate ground from the battery. Could be a starter issue, but you say it has been changed. I think if you had something in the engine getting that tight with heat you would notice it, and since friction causes more heat it would get bad enough to kill the engine in short order. I hope this helps.

Ted
190XTD seriesIII, 190XTD seriesI, maroon belly 7000, 190XTD series??? project(or maybe parts)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lars(wi) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Jun 2025 at 11:16pm
When you say ‘kill it’ are referring to stalling the engine, or turning the ignition off?
I tried to follow the science, but it was not there. I then followed the money, and that’s where I found the science.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote modirt Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Jun 2025 at 8:53pm
Originally posted by Ed (Ont) Ed (Ont) wrote:

You have thrown a lot of parts at it and none of those will cure the problem you said you had which seems to be not turning over well hot. Check your timing to see that it is correct. Too much advance could cause that same problem. Put a starter on it. Or get yours rebuilt - that may be the better option give the poor parts quality these days.


Agreed.......except most of those parts were intended to bring it back from the dead. A classic case of "it was running when parked". Had sat in the weeds for 3 or 4 years. Little to none of it to address current problem of not starting when hot. For now, that is just an annoyance. I'm careful not to kill it till the day is done.

But we are now using it. Picking up about 400 bales with it tomorrow. Back in the day, I"m told a good crew would not show up for a job less than 1,000 bales. I don't have that kind of crew.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Jun 2025 at 7:44pm
with a new starter, its a good bet that you have something getting TIGHTER as the engine heats up.. Maybe you got carbon the pistons ... maybe just drag between the pistons expanding and TIGHT in the bores.... you could try to rotate the engine with a torque wrench on the crank pulley when hot / cold and compare...
Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ed (Ont) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Jun 2025 at 7:28pm
You have thrown a lot of parts at it and none of those will cure the problem you said you had which seems to be not turning over well hot. Check your timing to see that it is correct. Too much advance could cause that same problem. Put a starter on it. Or get yours rebuilt - that may be the better option given the poor parts quality these days.

Edited by Ed (Ont) - 24 Jun 2025 at 9:12pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote modirt Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Jun 2025 at 6:58pm
Since last year, new points, plugs, condenser and distributor cap. Was advised to get new air filter. I said was probably fine, but did so anyway. Hard to find industrial canister type. Pulled out old filter and found a birds nest and feathers helping filter. Running on a new filter now.

New gas tank (aluminum fuel cell sold to race car guys), new starter, new battery, new gauges, including tach with hour meter. Those are hard to find. 

Did look at battery cables and they are smaller gauge than I remember. Can put on larger ones.

Is it possible something in the engine is  expanding enough when hot to be that much of a problem turning it over? Engine has enough power to spin it but battery and starter don't?

Fresh 10-30 oil.......looks clean and slick.


Edited by modirt - 24 Jun 2025 at 6:59pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ed (Ont) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Jun 2025 at 6:50pm
Certainly sounds like a bad starter. Slow to turn hot usually indicates starter problem. But check all your cables and connections as well and battery condition. If that starter is 50 years old it has done well!!!! Gear reduction starter on that?? Chrysler used those a lot. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Joe Goodwill Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Jun 2025 at 5:18pm
Mid 70’s Chevy 454 would get tight and hard to turn over if you shut it down quick after running hard and temp was up. Never figured it out but that thing was sure hard on back tires!!😳
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