h3 final drive leak

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my h3 final drives leak. i think i need to pull both shafts and replace the seals and bearings. has anyone had to do this lately. are the shafts held in with a castle nut. can i release them buy removeing the rear cover plate. would like any advice you have. tractor in great shape. rebuilt engine, clutch and new paint last year. runs great. steers good. need web site to order parts. thanks. bruce. 920-642-0277.

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blrott Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Bronze Level Joined: 28 Apr 2012 Location: neenah wi Points: 38	Post Options Post Reply Quote blrott Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Topic: h3 final drive leak Posted: 04 Feb 2013 at 9:38am
	my h3 final drives leak. i think i need to pull both shafts and replace the seals and bearings. has anyone had to do this lately. are the shafts held in with a castle nut. can i release them buy removeing the rear cover plate. would like any advice you have. tractor in great shape. rebuilt engine, clutch and new paint last year. runs great. steers good. need web site to order parts. thanks. bruce. 920-642-0277.

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auctioneer Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Silver Level Joined: 02 Mar 2011 Location: Lachine MI Points: 139	Post Options Post Reply Quote auctioneer Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 04 Feb 2013 at 10:54am
	we have the parts 989-379-2721

Eric B Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 09 Feb 2012 Location: British Columbi Points: 965	Post Options Post Reply Quote Eric B Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 04 Feb 2013 at 1:20pm
	Bruce: You need the manual to to get all the details right. If you don't have a manual someone posted the link for the entire manual on this forum a few months ago. I've searched for it on here a bit today but didn't come across it. If you try the search yourself you just may find it. I haven't done this seal replacement myself but I did read the section in the manual and it's the kind of job where you want to succeed on the first go at it. If I find the link I'll post it here for you.
	Currently- WD,WC,3WF's,2 D14's B. Previously- I 600,TL745,200,FL9,FR12,H3,816 LBH. Earth has no sorrow that Heaven cannot heal!

Coke-in-MN Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Afton MN Points: 41932	Post Options Post Reply Quote Coke-in-MN Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 05 Feb 2013 at 11:11am
	Have to ask is the H3 rear housing about the same as H4 ? If so the seal replacement is not a big deal once axle is removed but the bearing replacement is a little more work . Watch for wear on axle at seal lip contact area. Do not use a welded up axle as they are not heat treated . If you have wear - use speedy sleeve to repair.
	Faith isn't a jump in the dark. It is a walk in the light. Faith is not guessing; it is knowing something. "Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful."

Ages Cat Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Hutchinson, MN Points: 696	Post Options Post Reply Quote Ages Cat Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 05 Feb 2013 at 10:37pm
	If you are talking about the sprocket shaft seals, then be sure and get the latest seal package. I replaced ours twice before we stopped the leak. I got mine from Kevin @ Illini. Removing the bull gear snap ring and re-installing it in the groove is a challenge as well.

blrott Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Bronze Level Joined: 28 Apr 2012 Location: neenah wi Points: 38	Post Options Post Reply Quote blrott Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 06 Feb 2013 at 5:35pm
	when you replaced your seals what did you all have to do to get the shafts out. does the shaft go into the rear end or does it stop inside the final drive. never worked on final drives before this crawler. thanks. bruce.

Ages Cat Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Hutchinson, MN Points: 696	Post Options Post Reply Quote Ages Cat Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 06 Feb 2013 at 10:55pm
	In order to remove the seals, the drive axles to the sprockets must be removed from the housings. There is a nut and washer behind the round caps under center housing in the final drive castings. There is also a large snap ring which holds the big gear that drives the sprocket shaft in place. This is under the stamped metal cover on the bottom of th final drive casting. Best buy a large snap ring plier with flat faces for this ring. You may have to use several pieces of threaded rod on the sprocket flange to push the shaft out of the housing. The is not easy. The instructions in the seal pack will provide information on seal installation. We flipped the final drive housing with the forklift so we could work facing down on the shaft, snap ring installation. This one is tough if you have to lay on your side and look up. The origonal seal is a double lipped seal. I believe the replacement has two seals and a steel ring to protect the out edge of the seal. I suspect that the origional OEM seal is no longer available, thus the kit.