Construction and other equipment - h3 final drive leak

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h3 final drive leak

Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Construction and other equipment
Forum Description: everything else with orange (or yellow) paint
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=64555
Printed Date: 27 Jun 2025 at 2:12am
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com

Topic: h3 final drive leak

Posted By: blrott
Subject: h3 final drive leak
Date Posted: 04 Feb 2013 at 9:38am

my h3 final drives leak. i think i need to pull both shafts and replace the seals and bearings. has anyone had to do this lately. are the shafts held in with a castle nut. can i release them buy removeing the rear cover plate. would like any advice you have. tractor in great shape. rebuilt engine, clutch and new paint last year. runs great. steers good. need web site to order parts. thanks. bruce. 920-642-0277.

Replies:

Posted By: auctioneer
Date Posted: 04 Feb 2013 at 10:54am

we have the parts 989-379-2721

Posted By: Eric B
Date Posted: 04 Feb 2013 at 1:20pm

Bruce: You need the manual to to get all the details right. If you don't have a manual someone posted the link for the entire manual on this forum a few months ago. I've searched for it on here a bit today but didn't come across it. If you try the search yourself you just may find it. I haven't done this seal replacement myself but I did read the section in the manual and it's the kind of job where you want to succeed on the first go at it. If I find the link I'll post it here for you.

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Currently- WD,WC,3WF's,2 D14's B. Previously- I 600,TL745,200,FL9,FR12,H3,816 LBH. Earth has no sorrow that Heaven cannot heal!

Posted By: Coke-in-MN
Date Posted: 05 Feb 2013 at 11:11am

Have to ask is the H3 rear housing about the same as H4 ?

If so the seal replacement is not a big deal once axle is removed but the bearing replacement is a little more work .

Watch for wear on axle at seal lip contact area. Do not use a welded up axle as they are not heat treated . If you have wear - use speedy sleeve to repair.

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Faith isn't a jump in the dark. It is a walk in the light. Faith is not guessing; it is knowing something.
"Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful."

Posted By: Ages Cat
Date Posted: 05 Feb 2013 at 10:37pm

If you are talking about the sprocket shaft seals, then be sure and get the latest seal package. I replaced ours twice before we stopped the leak. I got mine from Kevin @ Illini.

Removing the bull gear snap ring and re-installing it in the groove is a challenge as well.

Posted By: blrott
Date Posted: 06 Feb 2013 at 5:35pm

when you replaced your seals what did you all have to do to get the shafts out. does the shaft go into the rear end or does it stop inside the final drive. never worked on final drives before this crawler. thanks. bruce.

Posted By: Ages Cat
Date Posted: 06 Feb 2013 at 10:55pm

In order to remove the seals, the drive axles to the sprockets must be removed from the housings. There is a nut and washer behind the round caps under center housing in the final drive castings. There is also a large snap ring which holds the big gear that drives the sprocket shaft in place. This is under the stamped metal cover on the bottom of th final drive casting. Best buy a large snap ring plier with flat faces for this ring. You may have to use several pieces of threaded rod on the sprocket flange to push the shaft out of the housing. The is not easy. The instructions in the seal pack will provide information on seal installation. We flipped the final drive housing with the forklift so we could work facing down on the shaft, snap ring installation. This one is tough if you have to lay on your side and look up. The origonal seal is a double lipped seal. I believe the replacement has two seals and a steel ring to protect the out edge of the seal. I suspect that the origional OEM seal is no longer available, thus the kit.